[Odal3]

Hi all,
I just got my first router - I got it used for cheap (actually got 2 routers, 1 plunge and one attached to a table + a quick safety intruction). If I end up using it a lot I might get a better one but so far it works well for my beginner skills. Part of the deal was also some old cheap looking router bits in a big set which I have started to use as a practice on scrap bits. One of the problem I have is that the flush trim bit I have burns the side of the wood - assuming it is due to bad bit combined with my poor skills

However, I really need some new bits, but have no clue exactly what I need. So what would you recommend to get to start up the "collection"? Brands?

The router will mainly be used to build audio stuff starting with some OB H frames so it will be for routing holes for drivers, flush, round-over, etc.

(I wasn't exactly sure where to post this, but saw that this post got a lot of replies in the lab circle: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=130348.0)

[TomS]

First thing to do is get some bit cleaner such as from CMT. Use it regularly to keep the cutters clean. The burning can be a combination of dirty and/or dull bits and too slow or uneven feed rate. Practice various feed rate/speeds to see the effect and go from there.

[Devil Doc]

I use Freud bits. I can highly recommend them. Don't buy a set of bits. You won't use half of them. Rather buy bits as you need them and of course buy carbon tipped bits. Pay attention to the horse power rating of your router. Turning a bit that belongs on a 3hp router on a 1 1/2 is frustrating.

Doc

[S Clark]

I use Freud bits. I can highly recommend them. Don't buy a set of bits. You won't use half of them. Rather buy bits as you need them and of course buy carbon tipped bits. Pay attention to the horse power rating of your router. Turning a bit that belongs on a 3hp router on a 1 1/2 is frustrating.

Doc

I think Doc meant "carbide" tipped.  Freud makes good bits, but don't put much pressure on the smaller ones (I've broken a couple, and it's dangerous).  I have started using Whiteside and like them. 
I like Doc's advice about sets.  Buy what you need. 

[richidoo]

I use Porter Cable bits. They are carbide edged, or solid carbide so they last longer than plain HSS (high speed steel) that you see in cheap bit sets from China. I like them, they are available locally from BORG if I need it right away, and online from Amazon.

Burning on a sharp bit is moving too slow, but that's not usually the case. Usually the burning is from dull edge that creates more friction heat when cutting through the material. In your case with the flush cut bit it's probably just high speed steel, not carbide so it dulled quickly on plywood/MDF and it's now dull and burns easily.

My main bits are 1/4" diameter straight bit for use with my two Jasper circle cutting jigs, small and medium size jigs. 1/2" diameter flush cut bit. Then I have a few quarter round bits. All Porter Cable carbide. I replace the 1/4" straight bit pretty often, maybe every 2-3 projects from cutting a lot of big woofer holes. But the others have lasted.

Don't forget the hearing protection so you can hear those new speakers when you're done building them! 

[Odal3]

What a great and helpful community this is! Thank you all for the great suggestions!!!

First thing to do is get some bit cleaner such as from CMT.

Thanks for the tip. Will need to look into that - it's definitely needed. I heard good things about BOESHIELD blade and bit cleaners as well.

I like Doc's advice about sets.  Buy what you need. 

That's my problem - I don't know what I need yet 

Went to the local store (Lowes) tonight to see what they had. They carried Bosch carbide bits. Are they any good? Didn't plan to buy a set, but they had a Bosch trimming and cutout set with 3 bits on sale for $23, so I got one. (rbs020xw):

1) 22° x 3/8 In. Carbide Tipped 2-Flute Bevel Trim Bit with bearing (85424M)
2) Straight Router Bit Carbide Tip 1/4 Double Flute, 1/4 Shank (85221M)
3 1/2-Inch Diameter 1-Inch Cut Double Flute Laminate Flush Trim Router Bit 1/4-Inch Shank With Ball Bearing (85266M)

Worth keeping or waste of money?

I have a jasper jig at home that I borrowed from a friend.  Would the above straight bit work with it, or is it better to use for example an upcut spiral bit?

"Quarter round bit" - I assume this is for round-over.

Will also look into the porter cable, whiteside and freud.

[Devil Doc]

As far as buying what you need, go project by project. Eventually you'll have a lot of bits, all useful. Oh, and Bosch makes very good stuff. Their tools are excellent.

Doc

[ACHiPo]

I second the recommendation on Whiteside bits.  Here's an article from Fine Woodworking that will give you an idea of how the bits compare.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/article/tool-test-router-bits.aspx

[Odal3]

Thanks for the link. I found the article here as well with no need to sign up for the subscription

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/ToolTestRouterBits.pdf

The finewoodworking page (at least without being a member) reminded me how good audiocircle is with no pop up ads etc.

[WGH]

After being very disappointed with Freud so I stay away from their cutters. Lately I have been buying all my bits from Grizzly http://www.grizzly.com/

Wayne

[syzygy]

good site
http://www.routerforums.com/

[ACHiPo]

Thanks for the link. I found the article here as well with no need to sign up for the subscription

http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/ToolTestRouterBits.pdf

The finewoodworking page (at least without being a member) reminded me how good audiocircle is with no pop up ads etc.

Sorry about that--I subscribed to their electronic archive a long time ago so didn't know that others didn't have access.  Glad you got access to the review--as I recall it's pretty good.

[mlundy57]

I started using Bosch bits on my first couple of projects but have moved on to both Freud and Whiteside, depending on the bit and availability.

For my roundover bits I prefer the Freud quad cutters. For cutting and flush trimming I prefer spiral over straight bits.

Carbide is a must. HSS is a waste of money. They dull way to quickly.

While a set is a good way to get started, once you have to replace a bit, spend the money and get a good one. Buying a lot of high quality bits at once can be expensive but getting them one at a time as you need to replace something is a lot more reasonable. Like a lot of things, with router bits you get what you pay for.

When you are using a bit with a bearing, make sure the bearing is secure before you start, need I say more?

I cut most of my recesses and driver through holes with a 1/2" spiral upcut bit with a 1/2" shank. This works fine with my Jasper jigs, I just have to adjust the pin hole used to account for the larger diameter bit.

My flush trim bit for use with MDF or Baltic Birch Ply is a 1/2" spiral with a 1/2" shank. For trimming veneer from through holes I use a 1/4" spiral flush trim bit with a 1/4" shank in my trim (laminate / Bosch Colt) router.

For trimming veneer from the recess of a driver hole I use a Whiteside small pilot flush dado cut (Part# SC28C). This works very well but needs a light touch since it does not have a bearing.

Don't try to hog out a lot of material at one time. A little at a time will give you much better results and will also reduce burning. When cutting a driver hole through 3/4" material I will usually make four passes. I step the depth down so the last pass only has to remove a very little material (~1/16").

When cutting through holes, make sure both the main piece and the scrap piece are securely fastened to your backer board, I find double stick tape (I use bowl turners tape) works well.  If you do not have the scrap piece secured, when you cut through the bit can wander and cut a gouge in the baffle 

Like others have said, keep you bits clean. I also like to spray a dry lube on them before I start cutting.

Mike

[Odal3]

ACHiPo - not at all. The article had some good comparisons so thank you!!!

syzygy - wow a whole new forum to explore 

Mike - thank you very much for taking the time to share all the info. Very helpful!! If you don't mind me asking what are the part numbers of the ones you mention?

Where is the best place online to buy them?

[mlundy57]

ACHiPo - not at all. The article had some good comparisons so thank you!!!

syzygy - wow a whole new forum to explore 

Mike - thank you very much for taking the time to share all the info. Very helpful!! If you don't mind me asking what are the part numbers of the ones you mention?

Where is the best place online to buy them?

I buy most of my router bits at the local Woodcraft store. Here are some links to check out different bits:

1/2" upcut spiral flush trim bits:

Whiteside RFT5125 Flush Trim Up Cut Spiral Router Bit 1/2" D X 1-1/4" CL 1/2" SH 3-3/4" OL - See more at: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/127467/whiteside-rft5125-flush-trim-up-cut-spiral-router-bit-12-d-x-114.aspx#sthash.bc7vNAQH.dpuf

Whiteside RFT5200 Flush Trim Up Cut Spiral Router Bit 1/2" D X 2" CL 1/2" SH 4-3/4" OL
Item #817030 Whiteside
- See more at: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/817030/whiteside-rft5200-flush-trim-up-cut-spiral-router-bit-12-d-x-2-cl-1.aspx#sthash.GTcL8Sd2.dpuf

The second one has a 2" cut length. This is going to be necessary if you plan on building cabinets with 1-1/2" thick panels like an H-Frame open baffle subwoofer cabinet.

1/4" spiral upcut flush trim bit:

Whiteside RFT2100 Flush Trim Up Cut Spiral Router Bit 1/4" D X 1" CL 1/4" SH 3" OL
Item #127465 Whiteside
- See more at: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/127465/whiteside-rft2100-flush-trim-up-cut-spiral-router-bit-14-d-x-1-cl-1.aspx#sthash.1rmu8Nsx.dpuf

Here's a 1/2" spiral upcut bit:

Whiteside RU5200 Standard Up Cut Spiral Router Bit 1/2" D X 2" CL 1/2" SH 4" OL
Item #816236 Whiteside
- See more at: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/816236/whiteside-ru5200-standard-up-cut-spiral-router-bit-12-d-x-2-cl-12.aspx#sthash.sOluyMq3.dpuf

Here are some Whiteside roundover bits:   

http://www.woodcraft.com/category/PA113-03/router-bits/whiteside.aspx?Type=Round%20Over%20Bits&

Here are some Freud roundover bits:

http://www.woodcraft.com/category/PA113-03/router-bits/freud.aspx?Type=Round%20Over%20Bits&

CMT also makes versions of these though I have never used any of their bits. Woodriver (Woodcraft store brand) bits are OK but I'd rather spend the extra and get a Whiteside or Freud.

There are other sites that sell these bits besides Woodcraft. Just do a search for Freud or Whiteside router bits.


Mike

[Odal3]

Mike - thanks again for sharing the additional info. Much appreciated!

Those 1/2" shank bits are expensive - need to save up for those.

[Devil Doc]

Mike - thanks again for sharing the additional info. Much appreciated!

Those 1/2" shank bits are expensive - need to save up for those.

1/2" bits are the way to go, and worth the extra money. 1/4" bits are for amateurs. The chances of breaking  a 1/2" are slim. What you don't need is a bit breaking and flying off your router at 20,000 rpm.

Doc

[Odal3]

Re breaking - is that something happening frequently with 1/4 bits?

For the more expensive bits, do you send them out for sharpening or do you always replace with new ?

[Devil Doc]

Re breaking - is that something happening frequently with 1/4 bits?

For the more expensive bits, do you send them out for sharpening or do you always replace with new ?

Isn't once enough? Scared the living hell out of me. Admittedly it was a cheap bit.


Doc

[Odal3]

Slow progress ... and a new problem.  Was cutting my mdf board to size with my circular saw. Thought I would be OK with my old circular saw if I used some good guides to get the cuts straight. Started it out well, but the saw died half way through so guess I'm in the market for that too.

Any recommendations?

BTW: When you cut the boards do you cut it to size or do you leave a little bit extra to be sanded or ?  Yes, I'm a complete beginner