[S Clark]

Swapped a pair of home built amps to a buddy for a Jolida phono pre  and a Vyger Timor turntable.  The Vyger is eye candy, but there are a couple of issues.  It is built for a Rega 300 arm, and I've got a Jelco 250 I'm trying to make work.  The Jelco calls for 214mm pivot to spindle, but the best I can do is 225mm.  Can this be made to work?

[sunnydaze]

Outboard arm pod.  214 is fairly close,  so it will need to go close to the platter.   In your pic there are two possible locations,  where the red plinth edge is right underneath the platter.

Or check with mfr.   Is the silver mount board removable?   If so get one cut specifically for your Jelco.

It will NEVER work on your current setup.   Not only is mount distance wrong,  but mount pattern is completely different : single hole for Rega,  Linn mount system w 3 bolts for Jelco.

Hope you get it figured out,  I think the Jelco will be a nice upgrade.   I have the 750E ten inch version and it handily beat the Michell TechnoArm (a souped up Rega)  I tried.   Mounted a Dyna 20x on both.

[S Clark]

Thanks, that's what I suspected.  Yes, that extension comes off, so I'll make one out of wood to fit the Jelco.
As for the mounting difference, I was looking for something quick and dirty that wouldn't screw up the finish on the Vyger... so decided to hot glue it for easy removal.  Damned if it didn't work, and was surprisingly firmly stuck.  That's something I'll stick in the back of my mind for another day. 

[sunnydaze]

Thanks, that's what I suspected.  Yes, that extension comes off, so I'll make one out of wood to fit the Jelco.

Exactly what I'd do! 

I suggest checking your local bed bath and beyond for bamboo cutting boards.   They are dirt cheap and come in various thicknesses.   I have used them to make several armboards and outboard pods for mounting xtra arms.  (pics in my gallery, if interested).  And I use a thicker 1.5 inch thick one under my Eurolab table.   Sounds great in all cases.

I believe thicknesses available from about 5mm to 20mm.  Obviously it's important to be mindful of this for correct clearances,  and arm height relative to platter. 

[S Clark]

OOuhh!  I like that idea.  Bamboo would be less likely to resonate.  I'll tag along next time my wife goes to BB&B.  I've used maple under other TT's, may give the thicker board a try under this one. 
By the way, as far as mountings not matching, I found a way around that.  For a quick and dirty mount I used hot glue so as to not mess up the TT.  Damned if it didn't work and stuck pretty dang solidly for a temporary fix.

[sunnydaze]

Tip.....

The bamboo splinters a bit when you cut it,  so use painters tape.

The grain looks very nice.   I just use simple tung oil to make it richer , and pop the grain a bit.

[ACHiPo]

Swapped a pair of home built amps to a buddy for a Jolida phono pre  and a Vyger Timor turntable.  The Vyger is eye candy, but there are a couple of issues.  It is built for a Rega 300 arm, and I've got a Jelco 250 I'm trying to make work.  The Jelco calls for 214mm pivot to spindle, but the best I can do is 225mm.  Can this be made to work?

Did you give up on the Pioneer arm?

[S Clark]

Did you give up on the Pioneer arm?

Au contraire!  The Pioneer arm is in it's pod and playing happily on my Technics SP-10.  This Vyger is a table a buddy has been trying to trade/sell me for a while.  I finally took it off his hands - needs a motor.  The Jelco is an arm that the Pioneer replaced. 

[neobop]

Au contraire!  The Pioneer arm is in it's pod and playing happily on my Technics SP-10.  This Vyger is a table a buddy has been trying to trade/sell me for a while.  I finally took it off his hands - needs a motor.  The Jelco is an arm that the Pioneer replaced.

What's the SP10, a MKII or III ?   Getting the motor from Vyger ??  Looks like a Jasmine.
neo

[S Clark]

What's the SP10, a MKII or III ?   Getting the motor from Vyger ??  Looks like a Jasmine.
neo

The SP10 is a MKII.  I have a  Jasmine on the way from Hong Kong, arriving later this week-Vyger wanted an arm and a leg for one.  In the meantime, I've made a mount for the Jelco out of nice piece of mesquite burl that I had out in the garage, so I've got it installed.  The shaft on the original motor was bent.  A local electric motor guy showed me how to true it up- I kid you not- with a Sharpie and a small hammer.  Took me about 30 minutes of marking, tapping, marking, tapping, but damned if I didn't get it pretty straight.  Interestingly, he said that once bent, they usually won't hold true after straightening. 
I have no idea how well the Jasmine motor is going to work.  Anyone with experience around here?

[*Scotty*]

You can check the run-out on the platter while rotating with a crayon or sharpie. If you observe the platter during rotation you can then slowly advance the point of the Sharpie towards the platter until the eccentricity of the platter causes contact with the Sharpie. This tells you which side of the motor shaft is still out. If there is too much run-out the motor bearings may wear out prematurely.
 It looks like the TT was shipped with the platter is place and of course it was dropped at least once on it's side on the way to it's destination.
Scotty 

[S Clark]

Thankfully, the platter turns true.  I had hoped that the motor bearings were shot, having replaced starter bearings in cars and bikes.  But with motor shaft being bent, I just decided to get the Jasmine unit.  What I've been able to find about it seems positive.

[*Scotty*]

I assume you have verified the trueness of the motor shaft in some fashion other than using the naked eye.
If it is indeed true, I can see no reason it should not remain true over time in the absence of any side thrust applied to the shaft.
Scotty

[S Clark]

Scotty,
I've only done the Sharpie test, and listened for low pitch rumble-- both of which are nearly ok, but not entirely (very listenable as compared to before).  I will take the old motor apart when the Chinese unit gets here, and at that time consider whether a machine shop or motor repair experts can rebuild it.  It may be that there is a Dutch drop in motor that will use the same electronic controls and fit in the same pod.  Just have to wait and see. 
Scott

[S Clark]

Oh, and by the way, you didn't need a sharpie to test that shaft before.  Looking at the pulley spin would make you dizzy it was so bent.  It also gave the woofers a real workout. 

[ACHiPo]

In the meantime, I've made a mount for the Jelco out of nice piece of mesquite burl that I had out in the garage, so I've got it installed.

Scott,
Mesquite is, as I recall, notorious for moving a lot with moisture.  You might want to keep an eye on your arm board by checking alignment periodically until you make it through a couple seasons.  If it's quarter sawn (unlikely for a burl), it would be the most stable. Sure can be pretty, though!
AC

[S Clark]

Thanks AC, I'll measure periodically.  It's a small piece that was in a scrap pile and was cut probably 10 years ago.   I'll make it a point to put more layers of Tung oil on it to make it a bit more resistant to moisture. 

[BobM]

How about finding a discarded piece of Corian from a kitchen countertop contractor? Less resonant than any kind of wood and you may find a piece that will look cool against that red plinth.

[S Clark]

Once I get the motor issue solved, I'll re-address the arm mount.  Corian would be a good option.  Does anyone here know how to cut, drill, and shape it? 

[ACHiPo]

Once I get the motor issue solved, I'll re-address the arm mount.  Corian would be a good option.  Does anyone here know how to cut, drill, and shape it?

Corian works easily with wood bits--like butter.  Stable, too, so would be a good choice.