Re-restored AR-XA turntable....

Wayner · « **on:** 10 Dec 2015, 08:56 pm »

This table has been between Frank's house and mine a couple of times. At one time it was the 2 motor version, now converted to the single, Haydon motor. It is a robust motor for it's size, and seams to work rather well, starting the table rotation in a fairly even manner and keeping excellent timing. I will let you see a few mods that I have done to the deck this time. First off is the removal of the old, worn out interconnects in favor of new RCA jacks. I did keep the original 5 position soldering terminal and it served as a jumper from tonearm connections to RCA outs. The next small change was where the tonearm wires exited the tonearm pivot assembly. The original was a pinch point for the wires, so a new location was drilled into the die-cast housing, sleeved to protect the wires and then 2-part epoxied to keep everything in place. The on/off switch has a new cap, the motor has its original. The head shell has been modded (probably by Frank) that incorporates removal of some the the front part of the box, which allows the user to actually see where he is placing the stylus. I also have used one of my mats which is a close copy to the original AR mat, and (not pictured) a foam block "safety net" for accidental tonearm drops.

The original painted steel plinth has been covered with a black vinyl cover that really hides all of the ills of the old plinth and it is easy to keep clean and easy to wipe off any oil slicks that may have happened during maintenance. Same original power cord, however, new terminal block for power inside the unit.

Sounds wonderful. Oh yeah, I also added a Technics tonearm clamp. The AR tonearm rest certainly did suck.

PSB Guy · « **Reply #1 on:** 10 Dec 2015, 09:00 pm »

Beautiful.

dB Cooper · « **Reply #2 on:** 10 Dec 2015, 09:06 pm »

Wayner, that counterweight isn't stock, is it?

Wayner · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 Dec 2015, 09:08 pm »

Yep, it is. Why do you ask that?

Meicheng · « **Reply #4 on:** 10 Dec 2015, 09:10 pm »

I had one of those many many years ago, with the cueing lever. Maybe it was an AR-XB? I found some hinges for the dust cover so it could be left on.

Wayner · « **Reply #5 on:** 10 Dec 2015, 09:13 pm »

I have the original dust cover, but its kind of dingy looking. I don't like dust covers on my tables, so in the other room, there is a pile of them....

brother love · « **Reply #6 on:** 10 Dec 2015, 09:38 pm »

Nice work. That is a sweet looking turntable. I'm sure it sounds great. What cartridge are you using with it?

Wayner · « **Reply #7 on:** 10 Dec 2015, 09:42 pm »

Grado Green.

dB Cooper · « **Reply #8 on:** 11 Dec 2015, 01:36 am »

Quote from: Wayner on 10 Dec 2015, 09:08 pm

Yep, it is. Why do you ask that?

Just curious. Looked different than the rest of the table. A friend when I was growing up had an ARXA but my recollection fit wasn't clear.

ACHiPo · « **Reply #9 on:** 11 Dec 2015, 03:52 am »

Reminds me of my first 'real' turntable, which I foolishly got rid of, but not before I junked the plastic headshell in favor of an ill-fitting "modern-looking" one of stamped aluminum. I miss it, but am quite happy with my WTT Reference ultimate replacement.

Lefty052347 · « **Reply #10 on:** 11 Dec 2015, 10:10 pm »

Nice work as usual Wayner. I still have my XB in service.

Regards,

Dean

Mark Korda · « **Reply #11 on:** 12 Dec 2015, 06:23 pm »

Hi Wayner,
Your AR inspired me so much I bought a new AR headshell on Ebay to finally get mine going! Fifty bucks, but gold connectors and pins. There is another Japanese wooden headshell for 39 dollars that you should check out that looks more like Frank was trying to achieve. This leads me to a question.
On the AR-XA arm I can adjust the arm length a little with a small phillips screw. I can also adjust the horizontal angle of the cartridge to the record by eye when I tighten the headshell screw on clamp. But with, lets say a Grado Green cartridge secured in the AR headshell, adjust the angle that the Grado should be on with the start of the record to the end. It might be called azimuth. The Japanese headshell does allow for that. Is the AR arm pre-set enough to not worry about that cartridge angle?
Here's another question, and a pre (thanks for your time and expertise). I want to put on gold jacks like you did and get rid of the old patch cord. I want to remove the tonearm so I can do a lot of refinishing work. Are there any special snags in doing this. I know it will be like a scene from the Hurt Locker but I can't see anyway around it before I resolder the wires to the gold jacks.
My AR went into retirement in 1984 just after I did the Audio Basics mod. Born in the USA and Thriller came out as the cd player did. I still have the 2 lubricants I ordered from Franks guys, the Nye Co. from the Audio Basics mod
I know one problem you might have with yours; Cartridge wear. Why?...Falling asleep to Topigraphical Oceans at night with no Q-UP. Thanks Wayne! The stuff I've seen you restore is more appealing to me than anything you see now in Absolute Sound and such......take care and check out the Japanese wooden headshell at AR turntable on ebay...Mark Korda

Wayner · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 Dec 2015, 07:15 pm »

No. This is a failure of the table. While they may have supplied a "pointer" to set the overhang distance, the fixed head/arm angle put an end to any modern cartridge alignment.

I've spent some time on this issue. The AR pointer and the current set angle of the arm put it into no known alignment. It's off by a considerable angle. I have achieved a Lofgren B alignment by placing the stylus in the proper overhang, but had to ream out the mounting holes for the cartridge, so it can be twisted in the head to achieve the correct offset angle.

So, in the end, a headshell that fits with slots is the way to go, and if the slots are long enough, can get you into any of the 3 popular alignments (Stevenson, Lofgren A (Bearwald) and Lofgren B).

Wayner · « **Reply #13 on:** 12 Dec 2015, 07:21 pm »

To your question on removing the old interconnects and installing new RCA jacks, I'd keep the terminal block, it's your friend. I too, removed the arm for my restoration, and it is a bitch to solder those tiny wires back onto the terminal block. You will need about 4 hands.

I used the wire from the original RCA interconnects to jump from the RCA jacks to the terminal block. This worked out very well. I also re-mounted the terminal block with screws, rather then the stapling technique that AR used. In this way, the block can be moved out into view and soldered on without being stuck into the corner of the wood cabinet.

Mark Korda · « **Reply #14 on:** 12 Dec 2015, 08:51 pm »

(http://www.analogueseduction.net/headshells/analogue-studio-cherry-wood-headshell.html) Wayne, thanks for the info. I have problems forwarding sites . I have Windows 8 and all I know is cut and paste. It always leaves 1000 symbols to type and not the easy little word group to press to get you there. I could use all tips known to mankind if you know the correct way....thanks....Mark K.

Wayner · « **Reply #15 on:** 12 Dec 2015, 09:02 pm »

I don't know how this head shell is going to fit on an AR arm. The AR uses screw threads molded into the neck of the head shell to attach to the arm via its threaded collar. This model has a single post (like most standard headshells, Technics), and I'm not sure that it would fit correctly....

Wayner · « **Reply #16 on:** 12 Dec 2015, 09:18 pm »

Mark,

I was shocked when I took one of my Technics headshells and it fit it into the AR arm! However, as I suspected the AR collar will not engage and lock it into place. If you could find a collar for it somewhere, you can snip the arm slot out inside of the arm pivot structure, remove the AR collar and install a normal, regular collar. Looks like the pins will line up too!!!

Wayner

ACHiPo · « **Reply #17 on:** 12 Dec 2015, 10:56 pm »

Quote from: Wayner on 12 Dec 2015, 09:18 pm

Mark,

I was shocked when I took one of my Technics headshells and it fit it into the AR arm! However, as I suspected the AR collar will not engage and lock it into place. If you could find a collar for it somewhere, you can snip the arm slot out inside of the arm pivot structure, remove the AR collar and install a normal, regular collar. Looks like the pins will line up too!!!

Wayner

I just twisted the collar over the pin. The pin is hard, the collar is soft aluminum, so I basically "machined" a deeper groove in the threads of the collar. You also might be able to file the pin on the headshell a bit to minimize the material you need to remove from the collar.

Sweep up the shavings and you're ready to rock.

Mark Korda · « **Reply #18 on:** 13 Dec 2015, 03:03 am »

Hey you guys are great,

I have that same Technics headshell. My main table, the Technics SL-20 belt drive manual has one on it. AChipo, thats a good idea you did but I'm going to treat this arm like it's the only one, and for me it is
Wayner, I have watched the AR rebuild project site very closely and I'll go slow and probably have lots of questions for you. Here is one; Given a 100 bucks or less to spend on a new cartridge, and one that would fit with the best correct angle in the AR head shell, what would you get? I already bought the headshell.
Wayne I forgot what the lower cost Grados have for a mounting housing. I could always enlarge the holes on the Grado with a shrew-tail file, use some washers and gain that angle (wiggle) room we were talking about that the AR headshell lacks. Thanks guys...Mark

rcag_ils · « **Reply #19 on:** 15 Dec 2015, 02:03 am »

The plastic bearing on my tonearm got damage, an idea how to get that fixed?