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"The Micro Seiki 505 mk II arm seems to be comparable in reputation to a Jelco 750 (or at least a 250), with one report of it outperforming an SME V."On the face of it that seems like a bizarre statement.
GB,Looks like you're making good progress on your new turntable's home!AC
t is the same on both sides. Don't laugh at my cheap cinderblocks, Lowes had nobody to help cut the wood I was going to use to make a shelf and I had to do something. Would have been a waste of money most likely.
I finally ended up with the VPI HW-19 TNT that I had originally posted about. The seller shipped it via Southwest Cargo in two LARGE boxes completely disassembled with about a mile of heavy duty bubble wrap around each piece. The cost of shipping this way is much cheaper than the normal throw your stuff around guys and it only took two hours to arrive at the airport.This was my first time assembling a TT and I took my time carefully going through the manual. Spent quite a bit of time on Vinylengine researching the Audioquest PT8 tonearm and alignment templates before attempting to set it up. I really missed the easily removable headshell on my other turntables. Afterwards I put on a familiar record and was in sonic bliss.The Lyra cartridge that was supposed to be included was damaged while in storage so it was a no go. The seller is finding out if it can be repaired and retipped. It worked out for now since I can see what just the TT does to improve my setup. I will update this thread as I dial everything in and make other adjustments, but initial impressions are off the charts. There are so many tweaks for this table and a few I have to try.First thing is I need help with an affordable solution for my less than ideal rack. I need suggestions to make it work for now. I'm thinking Herbies product can save me, but am open to solutions. See the pictures below and you will see the nuts, washer and bolt are in the way of placing the TT properly. It is the same on both sides. Don't laugh at my cheap cinderblocks, Lowes had nobody to help cut the wood I was going to use to make a shelf and I had to do something. Would have been a waste of money most likely.
Congratulations Bender you are a great DIYr.Some plats are priced more than $1000 andperform same as your.
I had a similar problem with my hw19. I was going to buy a slab of wood or cutting board and put some spikes on it. Then I got lazy and did it half-assed http://www.timbernation.com/isolationplatforms_popup.cfm
Congrats GB! Happy spinning!My NOS tonearm is en route (finally).
One thing I now consider an absolute necessity with any turntable without a dedicated power supply is either of the two controllers they make:http://www.phoenix-engr.com/#!/Before cartridges, wood slabs, tonearms, etc.. either of these products will make an audible difference in the performance of your turntable.Cheaper, and better, IMHO, than VPI's SDS.
Easy solution:(1) buy a large thick butcher block. Dawns Depot on Ebay, or overstock.com, or Bed Bath and Beyond, or kitchen supply store, or wherever. Less than 100 bux. For cheaper, scour Craigslist for BB tables / counters and cut to size yourself. You'll have lots left over for elsewhere in your system. I built my entire rack this way, and used leftovers for isolation platforms. On average, I paid about $40 for each 3' x 5' BB table.(2) put something under the BB, higher than the nuts, so it clears the nuts. Spikes, cones, Herbies, cork blocks, hockey pucks, leftover chunks of BB (if you go DIY route in (1) ), etc.(3) place TT on BB.EDIT: If you want, you can even place the BB on top of nuts --- if they are flat, level and even.
The VPI HW-19 is a solid choice. There is plenty of room for a serious upgrade path with this table. That doesn't include the aftermarket and DYI tweaks that can improve the table as well.Here's a few shots of my table that started out as a HW-19. I have taken it well beyond the Mark IV status:1) TNT Platter - There are several options here. I researched the most desirable and picked the discontinued, lead impregnated platter. It weighs over 22lb.2) Inverted Bearing3) Mark IV Plinth4) Superarm Board that is Separated from the Table Plinth5) VPI JMW 10.5i Tonearm with Nordost Wires and Adjustable VTA6) HRX Feet7) Periphery Ring8 ) SDS Speed Controller9) Outboard, Isolated Motor with Isolating Platform Stand10) Custom Hard Suspension using Inverted Cones11) Plinth & Frame Damping12) ZYX 4D - S MC CartridgeThe VPI JMW Tonearm Assembly w/ Anti Skate allows for the use of RCA terminated phone cables of choice. I use a variety of record weights: HR Harmonic Resolution, VPI and/or Black Diamond.Because I took my time to upgrade and picked the parts carefully (mostly pre-owned), the total expenditure has been far less than buying a new, upper level Classic or comparable. I'd be happy to spin this table next to any audiophile table. Of course, it works for me but as always YMMV.
That is a beautiful setup you have there. Where do you have the SDS controller? Sorry if I just missed it in the pictures. I have noticed a bit of hum (when turned up REALLY loud) that increases as I move the tonearm toward the spindle. Is that the motor hum I have been reading about? Maybe the pairing of Grado Gold with this setup?
Tonearm is in the house!
