[Peter J]

 For those interested, I ended up using DH labs OFH-12 for the hookup wire.

[occamsrazor]

Peter - Is that the Ghent case? It looks like you did a nice job. Could you kindly explain a bit more your method....

- Looks like you've run the mains earth and nAmpon wire to a bolt on the lower chassis close to both. That's a nice way of doing it. Did that make OK contact with the chassis, or did you have to scrape off the black anodising?

- How did you ground the XLR Pin1 input? Could you post a close-up picture of that part?

- It looks like you've connected the LED that comes with the case - does it work OK? Which connectors do you connect it to on the SMPS600?

- I see you've used crimp connectors for the power terminals. Is that just for future convenience? Preferable to soldering direct?

Thanks!

[Peter J]

Peter - Is that the Ghent case? It looks like you did a nice job. Could you kindly explain a bit more your method....

- Looks like you've run the mains earth and nAmpon wire to a bolt on the lower chassis close to both. That's a nice way of doing it. Did that make OK contact with the chassis, or did you have to scrape off the black anodising?

- How did you ground the XLR Pin1 input? Could you post a close-up picture of that part?

- It looks like you've connected the LED that comes with the case - does it work OK? Which connectors do you connect it to on the SMPS600?

- I see you've used crimp connectors for the power terminals. Is that just for future convenience? Preferable to soldering direct?

Thanks!

Yes on the Ghent case, I like it a lot.

For grounds (earth), I tapped an existing hole and ran a #6 screw up from the bottom then star washer>nut>star washer>connectors >nut. All grounds attached here, I assume the power supply will ground through chassis, although I considered running a wire from the corner screw to the ground post.

 For the LED, I tapped the power supply leads near the connector. Just stripped a little insulation, soldered LED harness on, and then some shrink tubing. LED boards or maybe switches seem a little finicky, one didn't work at all, the other dimmed a couple of times that was that. Ghent is sending replacements. He's very responsive, which I appreciate.

I don't see a need to solder power terminals, had the crimp terminals on hand, and it was easy.

Looks like Ghent has added some reference photos to Ebay, which indicate the LED board is 12 volt, not line voltage as I assumed. I imagine I've damaged them. To anyone looking at this for your reference, don't do this as I have! Looks like 12v is available on power supply board.

[Julf]

I would have connected the ground lead from the XLR to the chassis much closer to the XLR connector, but in your case you are probaly OK, because of the way the lead to ground is routed along the back panel. Had you ran the wire straight-ish from the XLR connector to the grounding point, I would be more concerned.

[occamsrazor]

Yes on the Ghent case, I like it a lot.

I also have a pair coming soon, they look nice.

For grounds (earth), I tapped an existing hole and ran a #6 screw up from the bottom then star washer>nut>star washer>connectors >nut. All grounds attached here, I assume the power supply will ground through chassis, although I considered running a wire from the corner screw to the ground post.

That's pretty much what I am planning to do. The power supply "should" ground through the metal spacer on the corner, I believe, but with an anodised case I'd want to test and be sure.

For the LED, I tapped the power supply leads near the connector. Just stripped a little insulation, soldered LED harness on, and then some shrink tubing. LED boards or maybe switches seem a little finicky, one didn't work at all, the other dimmed a couple of times that was that. Ghent is sending replacements. He's very responsive, which I appreciate.

So the LED runs off mains 120/240v does it? [EDIT: NO IT DOESN'T, its 12v, see below] As I say I don't have my cases yet... And I agree, Ghent is a pleasure to deal with and very responsive. I had a bunch of complicated shipping requirements (at my request) and he went out of his way to help me.

I don't see a need to solder power terminals, had the crimp terminals on hand, and it was easy.

I will probably solder, but just because I don't have the crimp terminals.

Julf has been patiently guiding me - Thanks Julf on another forum. That XLR connector should in theory ground directly to the case, meaning instead of running a wire from the XLR socket to the grounding point, you could just join Pin1 to the grounding pin of the XLR instead, assuming it does in fact make a connection with the chassis. See here.....

http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2470465&postcount=150

[Peter J]

I would have connected the ground lead from the XLR to the chassis much closer to the XLR connector, but in your case you are probaly OK, because of the way the lead to ground is routed along the back panel. Had you ran the wire straight-ish from the XLR connector to the grounding point, I would be more concerned.

Thanks for your thoughts, Julf. What would the potential downside be? It'd be pretty easy to loop to grounding pin on XLR socket body.

[jonbee]

jonbee,
which wire category is the signal cable product you use under?
thanks,
drmike

I contacted them directly and simply bought a  single 2 foot "Silver Reference" IC unterminated. I have a pair of their Silver Reference ICs which are quite good for the $, possibly the best under $100/pr. IC on the market. With the shielded twisted pair config it offered the same config as the stock input cable, but with silver/copper alloy conductors and Teflon dielectric. I kept the original control wire.
It is a bit brighter than the stock wiring, but much clearer from top to bottom. I like the sound very much. Others who don't want the extra brightness might want to use Cardas or other copper mix.
Next up will be the power inputs. I'll post the part #s for the molex connectors soon.

[Julf]

Thanks for your thoughts, Julf. What would the potential downside be? It'd be pretty easy to loop to grounding pin on XLR socket body.

The longer the wire, the more it acts as an antenna. Star grounding is a great idea for traditional audio-frequency stuff, but for the higher-frequency stuff in class D amps and SMPSs, using the whole metal chassis for ground is better.

[Speedskater]

As above.

The XLR pin1 shield connect to the chassis should be 2cm (1 inch) long or shorter.  The wire acts as in interference transmitting antenna, the longer it is the more it transmits! 

The AC power Safety Ground/Protective Earth wire should be as short as is reasonable (but it doesn't need to be as short as the XLR).

The main circuit common (ground)(star-point) should connect to the chassis near the input XLR connectors. 

[jtwrace]

....and it is very important to remove the anodize where these grounds attached to the aluminum chassis. 

[Speedskater]

The anodizing can be a problem.

That Safety Ground/Protective Earth chassis connection needs to be real secure!  We don't want it to vibrate loose. In fault conditions it may have to deal with 150 to 1500 Amps (120V system) until the circuit breaker trips! So do more than a tack solder connection.

[Peter J]

Hmmm, I've got some work to do! But it's all fairly easy, no major f-ups with the exception of the LED connections, which thankfully Ghent is taking care of by sending me new LED boards. There are now photos on the eBay ad, but I am near certain that they were added after I ordered. I pored over the photos numerous times before pulling trigger 

I think I'm good on safety ground. The anodizing was removed when hole was tapped, and the star washer digs into the chassis such that I'm seeing bare aluminum.

To be certain of SMPS grounding properly, I'll expose bare metal at corner mounting position.

Thanks for all the input, it just goes to show that I don't know what I don't know but can learn with the help of others.

[occamsrazor]

Using star washers seems a good idea, though not sure I can get them where I live. Any tips/tricks on how to remove the anodising neatly?
How important is it actually for the SMPS to be grounded? Presumably if the IEC is grounded to chassis well this takes care of safety issues. Or does SMPS need to be grounded for audio reasons?

[Peter J]

Using star washers seems a good idea, though not sure I can get them where I live. Any tips/tricks on how to remove the anodising neatly?
How important is it actually for the SMPS to be grounded? Presumably if the IEC is grounded to chassis well this takes care of safety issues. Or does SMPS need to be grounded for audio reasons?

Perhaps a deft touch with rotary tool...Dremel or die grinder. I think with patience you could do it with a metal scribe and just scratch away in a small area that would be covered by screw head of some such. My intention is to run a countersink in mounting hole for SMPS and just remove a bit to bare aluminum. As to the importance, I'm just not qualified to answer knowledgeably, but in my case not hard to do, so I will.

[barrows]

Using star washers seems a good idea, though not sure I can get them where I live. Any tips/tricks on how to remove the anodising neatly?
How important is it actually for the SMPS to be grounded? Presumably if the IEC is grounded to chassis well this takes care of safety issues. Or does SMPS need to be grounded for audio reasons?

The SMPS 600 grounds to the chassis through the single metal standoff (supplied) only at very high (RF) frequencies.  This mounting point on the PCB is connected to the ground plane through a small value cap.  Bruno Putzeys has mentioned on the (enormous) NC-400 thread at diyaudio.com that this reduces RF emissions from the SMPS 600.  If your case has anodizing (or paint) sand off to bare metal where the mounting hole is for that standoff.

[occamsrazor]

Ghent is taking care of by sending me new LED boards. There are now photos on the eBay ad, but I am near certain that they were added after I ordered. I pored over the photos numerous times before pulling trigger 

Thanks for pointing those new photos out. Yes you are right, they weren't there before! So the LED runs off the 12v auxiliary output from the SMPS, not the 240v input... yes?

Also I note in Ghent's sample layout picture:



...that he has orientated the NC400 module so its main connectors are closest to the back panel, in a 12 o'clock position if looking back, whereas everyone else on the net has it so those connectors are in the 9 o'clock position. I guess this enables shorter speaker and input cables. Though the NC400 positioning looks a bit more central in the case, I wonder if it is matching up to the drilled holes in that picture.

[Peter J]

Thanks for pointing those new photos out. Yes you are right, they weren't there before! So the LED runs off the 12v auxiliary output from the SMPS, not the 240v input... yes?

Also I note in Ghent's sample layout picture:



...that he has orientated the NC400 module so its main connectors are closest to the back panel, in a 12 o'clock position if looking back, whereas everyone else on the net has it so those connectors are in the 9 o'clock position. I guess this enables shorter speaker and input cables. Though the NC400 positioning looks a bit more central in the case, I wonder if it is matching up to the drilled holes in that picture.

I took note of that as well. The cable length supplied with Hypex components I got wouldn't allow that setup, nor would the drilled chassis holes align. I suspect that's the reason for the qualifier in the photo, "for reference only". Assuming you use existing chassis holes, the layout is predetermined. Perhaps what he has pictured there was some earlier iteration.

[Peter J]

Hi all. I've been making grounding modifications as suggested while I await new LED boards to replace the ones I cooked. Looking at Hypex info sheets it would appear that on/off LED should connect to J1 pins 3 and 7, but before I booger another pair, I'd like to confirm with those in the know. What say you, Ncore gurus?

[Julf]

Hi all. I've been making grounding modifications as suggested while I await new LED boards to replace the ones I cooked. Looking at Hypex info sheets it would appear that on/off LED should connect to J1 pins 3 and 7, but before I booger another pair, I'd like to confirm with those in the know. What say you, Ncore gurus?

J1 on the SMPS600? That would give you over 40V - I thought the LED was a 12V one?

[Peter J]

Hi all. I've been making grounding modifications as suggested while I await new LED boards to replace the ones I cooked. Looking at Hypex info sheets it would appear that on/off LED should connect to J1 pins 3 and 7, but before I booger another pair, I'd like to confirm with those in the know. What say you, Ncore gurus?

I may have answered my own question. One of the photos on Ghent's eBay ad shows positive to pin 3 and negative(shown as ground) to pin 5. I'll do it this way unless someone sees folly ahead.