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Peter - Is that the Ghent case? It looks like you did a nice job. Could you kindly explain a bit more your method....- Looks like you've run the mains earth and nAmpon wire to a bolt on the lower chassis close to both. That's a nice way of doing it. Did that make OK contact with the chassis, or did you have to scrape off the black anodising?- How did you ground the XLR Pin1 input? Could you post a close-up picture of that part?- It looks like you've connected the LED that comes with the case - does it work OK? Which connectors do you connect it to on the SMPS600?- I see you've used crimp connectors for the power terminals. Is that just for future convenience? Preferable to soldering direct?Thanks!
Yes on the Ghent case, I like it a lot.
For grounds (earth), I tapped an existing hole and ran a #6 screw up from the bottom then star washer>nut>star washer>connectors >nut. All grounds attached here, I assume the power supply will ground through chassis, although I considered running a wire from the corner screw to the ground post.
For the LED, I tapped the power supply leads near the connector. Just stripped a little insulation, soldered LED harness on, and then some shrink tubing. LED boards or maybe switches seem a little finicky, one didn't work at all, the other dimmed a couple of times that was that. Ghent is sending replacements. He's very responsive, which I appreciate.
I don't see a need to solder power terminals, had the crimp terminals on hand, and it was easy.
I would have connected the ground lead from the XLR to the chassis much closer to the XLR connector, but in your case you are probaly OK, because of the way the lead to ground is routed along the back panel. Had you ran the wire straight-ish from the XLR connector to the grounding point, I would be more concerned.
jonbee,which wire category is the signal cable product you use under?thanks,drmike
Thanks for your thoughts, Julf. What would the potential downside be? It'd be pretty easy to loop to grounding pin on XLR socket body.
Using star washers seems a good idea, though not sure I can get them where I live. Any tips/tricks on how to remove the anodising neatly?How important is it actually for the SMPS to be grounded? Presumably if the IEC is grounded to chassis well this takes care of safety issues. Or does SMPS need to be grounded for audio reasons?
Ghent is taking care of by sending me new LED boards. There are now photos on the eBay ad, but I am near certain that they were added after I ordered. I pored over the photos numerous times before pulling trigger
Thanks for pointing those new photos out. Yes you are right, they weren't there before! So the LED runs off the 12v auxiliary output from the SMPS, not the 240v input... yes?Also I note in Ghent's sample layout picture:...that he has orientated the NC400 module so its main connectors are closest to the back panel, in a 12 o'clock position if looking back, whereas everyone else on the net has it so those connectors are in the 9 o'clock position. I guess this enables shorter speaker and input cables. Though the NC400 positioning looks a bit more central in the case, I wonder if it is matching up to the drilled holes in that picture.
Hi all. I've been making grounding modifications as suggested while I await new LED boards to replace the ones I cooked. Looking at Hypex info sheets it would appear that on/off LED should connect to J1 pins 3 and 7, but before I booger another pair, I'd like to confirm with those in the know. What say you, Ncore gurus?
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