[S Clark]

I just finished building a X-Statik kit.  I've built dozens of speakers, all with binding post. Some like all copper, some like low mass, silver plate, etc.

Why not simply run extra wire out the back of the cabinet, and connect to the speaker cable with wire nuts?  Low mass, easily as solid as any binding post, wire to wire with no non copper alloy in between...
If you only disconnect a few times a year, then why not?  If the end gets raggedy, cut off 1/2" and start again.  It should be a decade before I need to rewire.
Comments?

[rlee8394]

If you're gonna run extra wire out of the speaker, then make the run 10' long and skip the wire nuts and connect directly to your amp!!

[S Clark]

To late for that on this project, but I may just do that on the next one.

[FullRangeMan]

If you're gonna run extra wire out of the speaker, then make the run 10' long and skip the wire nuts and connect directly to your amp!!

+1.
And power cables?
Why add more some connections using IEC power connectors?
Until 1980s amps didnot use it.
FM acoustics amps dont use it today:

[James Romeyn]

I just finished building a X-Statik kit.  I've built dozens of speakers, all with binding post. Some like all copper, some like low mass, silver plate, etc.

Why not simply run extra wire out the back of the cabinet, and connect to the speaker cable with wire nuts?  Low mass, easily as solid as any binding post, wire to wire with no non copper alloy in between...
If you only disconnect a few times a year, then why not?  If the end gets raggedy, cut off 1/2" and start again.  It should be a decade before I need to rewire.
Comments?

I like the idea and it seems ideal for a non-professional who seldom swaps speakers. 

I tend to swap speakers and experiment a lot.  I can't modify speakers that will eventually be sold.  My most frequent practice is to use speaker cables terminated with 14AWG solid core THHN house wire (copper) soldered direct to the speaker wire.  This 14AWG wire inserts in the hole in the binding post.

Some of my speaker connections require series connection, for instance between the on-axis and LCS (Late Ceiling Splash) section of Zephrin 46 or Dream Maker LCS.  In these cases requiring + and - speaker wires to be shorted, I use a loose binding post with large hole.  I stick the post and two wires into a section of an old bicycle tube flat, closed on one end, open on the other end, then wrap a wire tie around the open end to keep the post assembly from shorting to something it should not.

Actually, I just realized: the speaker outputs from one receiver pass through a Bridging Circuit (Vishay S102 metal foil resistors) to attenuate to line level to drive three power amps.  I already use wire nuts as described above for the same purpose. 

[barrows]

I am not in favor of bare copper wire anywhere it can be exposed to O2.  Copper starts to oxidise almost immediately.  If you did a wire nut twist with two bare copper wires, the connection would oxidise very quickly, and copper oxides are not good conductors.  This is why mil spec wire is always silver plated copper (for reliability) as silver oxidises much more slowly, and silver oxides are still very good conductors.
I still prefer to have a non reactive plating on any contact connection (gold, rhodium, etc), although I have used Cardas bare copper binding posts at times (and I also ended up polishing them monthly, what a pain).  Additionally, connections which are not tight (read with no gaps or air incursion) may alow for micro arcing, and that will result in additional noise.
Just some things to consider...

[DaveC113]

I agree with barrows. I do not like bare metal connections and will treat them with progold or similar if it's unavoidable to slow down corrosion.

I have plenty of unplated brass that is noticeably corroded and some unplated Cardas binding posts that are badly corroded, luckily they are sitting in a box where they belong... and cotton covered wire that is corroded underneath the cotton.

I do think non-plated connectors can sound good and they are less expensive, but the required cleaning makes them a no-go for me.

[S Clark]

I wipe all my connections down periodically, so the corrosion at the point of contact is not a big factor.  Copper does oxidize, but it does so slowly compared to most metals (It's the 6th least reactive metal-much less reactive than Chromium or Nickel, both often used for plating). A period of days or even weeks is not really an issue.  However, I hadn't thought about the possibility of arcing. 

[DaveC113]

It does seem like wire nuts would work but I'd only try them if the threaded metal insert is aluminum... I've used thousands of wire nuts but I really don't know if they are steel or aluminum under the plastic cap?

Another thing that may work better for taking on/off is a set-screw type wire splicing device, those should be available in copper or brass.

If you just want a good, cheap binding post check out Pomona, they have a gold plated tellurium copper post for under $10 each. 

[S Clark]

I am using wire nuts that have no metal insert.  Part of the idea is the low mass thing that seems to have a following (Eichman, ElectraCables, Furutech).  Using plastic only, there is no other metal involved, hopefully leading to less wave reflection.  I made these speakers with a removable bottom, so I can retrofit a standard binding post quite easily.  Just thought I'd give this a try. 
I've also thought about a clamp of some sort with either hard plastic, or ironwood inserts.  Again, looking for no metal mass added.

[DaveC113]

That's interesting, not sure I've seen a wire nut without a threaded metal insert. It sounds like your plan is worth trying if you don't need to disconnect your speaker cables very often. I would be sure to try some damping material of some sort in or around the wire nut or clamp if you try that. You could also try turning a set of cheap brass binding posts into a clamp, insulating the post from the wires of course... I've read about doing that but haven't tried it. Good connectors are pretty expensive so I understand wanting to bypass them where possible. 

[mikeeastman]

I used Cardas patented binding post and covered the metal with a nylon washer and shrink tube.

[S Clark]

Now that's interesting.

[BobRex]

It does seem like wire nuts would work but I'd only try them if the threaded metal insert is aluminum... I've used thousands of wire nuts but I really don't know if they are steel or aluminum under the plastic cap?

Hmmm, aluminum against copper (or silver).  Wouldn't that create a galvanic reaction, similar to mixing copper and aluminum house wiring?  Not to mention the different coefficients of expansion.  granted, the currents, and therefore heating, are different, but the speaker connections are the highest current signal conditions.

[Guy 13]

Hi all.
This is how I have connected my amplifier to my Omega 7F driver.
Soldered connections to Omega driver terminals with Signal Cables
double 14ga. OFC wire 10 feet later to the output 5 ways terminals
of the Decware SE84C+ amplifier.
I wanted to go directly inside the amplifier to the wires
of the output transformer, but that's too much.
If I want to change speakers, because I have two more sets or move
something, it would be difficult and like I often say:
Audio should be simple !
I am happy with my set up now, so hands off... 

Guy 13