Modding the Toshiba SD4960 DVD/DVD-A/CD/SACD player

rhale64 · « **Reply #220 on:** 28 Oct 2005, 09:29 pm »

Well I just used this black stuff I had.

It is done and burning in. I want to thank everybody for all your help. Especially you Bob. I cant say it is a drastic difference over what I had allready done. I also put in another Blackgate at SAE7 which is SAE2 on the board I have. I originally had a Panasonic in there. When I did the original mods it was an amazeing difference after about two hours. With the Swenson I am just noticing the grunge in the mids is gone but something is missing to me. The soundstage has flattened out some I believe. I just cant put my ears on it.

It is very extended with more air. I am noticeing the cymbals more than ever. The bass is deep and tight. But something in the soundstage has got me puzzled. Does it take time to burn these film caps in also? I put in the Sonicaps with the sonicap2 for bypass. I took out the mica bypassing the big Blackgate. Maybe I should put it back in. I also put in the other Blackgate mentioned above. Any suggestions? And by the way how do I post these mod pics I have?

BobM · « **Reply #221 on:** 29 Oct 2005, 08:49 pm »

Everything takes time to burn in. Give the Sonicaps about 50-100 hrs. The BlackGates about 200 hrs. That's a lot of time, for sure.

For pictures, you have to post them somewhere else and then put the URL of that picture here with an [IMG] around it. You can post pictures free at Photobucket.com and then refer to them in your posts here.

Bob

DaveToa · « **Reply #222 on:** 29 Oct 2005, 09:01 pm »

I have a modified Samsung HD841 without the including the Auricap xcap replacement and excluding the Swenson mod. I just love the sound from the unit. I could listen to it forever.

I was going to try to put an IEC connector on the unit but it is a really tight fit. There doesn't seem to be enough space to squeeze the IEC receptacle on to the back of the unit where the stock PC enters the unit.

I noted that BobM had installed a Belden PC and after a while replaced it with the original PC. I too have my unit atop DIYumas.

Has anyone successfully mounted an IEC on the back of a HD841?

What sonic difference, if anyone , was heard from replacing the PC?

TIA

rhale64 · « **Reply #223 on:** 30 Oct 2005, 02:47 am »

Thank You again Bob. I am glad to hear that about them sounding better after breakin. I am noticeing some low grade popping when I turn the unit on or off. Is this what them micas were originally to take care of? Or could this be something else?

I would also like to know about the power cord. I am just wondering what else I could do to get better sound out of this thing.

rhale64 · « **Reply #224 on:** 30 Oct 2005, 01:36 pm »

Still cant figure out how to post pics. I have them uploaded but dont know what to do.[/url]

BobM · « **Reply #225 on:** 30 Oct 2005, 09:18 pm »

WHen you ar eposting do you see the shortcut HTML tags in the ittle grey boxes at the top? On of them says "IMG". So, right click on the picture you have saved somewhere and copy the URL of the picture itself. Then paste the picture in your message body here on the circle. Once you've done that, just highlight the full URL and select "IMG" on the top. That will put this in front of the URL

.

Then preview your post and see if the picture shows up. If not, then you've done something wrong. Try again. Do not pass Go. Do not collect $200 (or the esteem of your peers).

Bob

rhale64 · « **Reply #226 on:** 1 Nov 2005, 01:08 am »

Well this was supposed to be pics. But it was too big of a file.

rhale64 · « **Reply #227 on:** 1 Nov 2005, 11:37 am »

Well I believe I did that all wrong. I uploaded the complete file at once. I will try it again when I get this thing on photobucket.

rhale64 · « **Reply #228 on:** 1 Nov 2005, 02:12 pm »

Here let me try again. This is of the bridge. And surrounding area.

notice on each leg there is 4 diodes. The three are covered with heatshrink. I ripped the one trying to get it off to take this pic for you modders. As you can see on the one leg all those look the same. there is four wires going to the board all Audio Consulting solid silver. Also the grounds for the rca's is the same wire. As you can see in the next pic.

rhale64 · « **Reply #229 on:** 1 Nov 2005, 02:14 pm »

And of the whole thing. Notice I need more room.

No the grounds for the rca's are not in contact with the back. It just looks that way. Also on the Sonicaps they are not touching either. I seperated each channel after this photo. But they are suspended in air. I need a bigger chassis so I can attatch them right next to the rca's on the back.

mcspack · « **Reply #230 on:** 7 Nov 2005, 12:19 am »

For the main power cap some have used backgate but which value did you use? in the pictures above it looks like that is a blackgate, also which jensen cap value does RAM use in their modd? thanks in advance.

omedon · « **Reply #231 on:** 7 Nov 2005, 07:22 am »

Quote from: DaveToa

I have a modified Samsung HD841 without the including the Auricap xcap replacement and excluding the Swenson mod. I just love the sound from the unit. I could listen to it forever.

I was going to try to put an IEC connector on the unit but it is a really tight fit. There doesn't seem to be enough space to squeeze the IEC receptacle on to the back of the unit where the stock PC enters the unit.

I noted that BobM had installed a Belden PC and after a while replaced it with the original PC. I too have ...

Ric Shultz over at Electronic Visionary Systems performed a thorough mod of my HD-841. He added an IEC with a 'flying lead'?. Basically there is 3 inches of cable hanging out the back of the player and the IEC is attached to that.

The Toshiba doesn't have the HDMI and therefore the IEC can be attached directly on the back of the unit.

rhale64 · « **Reply #232 on:** 7 Nov 2005, 01:28 pm »

It was an 150uf 350volt BlackGate FK series. Now I believe that cap has been discontinued. I believe you would have to get either the NH at $48.50 or VK at $20.50 if you went the BlackGate route. And one of them cost about the same as the Jensen or more in the case of the NH. If I was to do again I would use the Jensen. I do not remember the size that RAM uses for the power supply cap. Kyle had told me a while ago. I would imagine it would be the smallest uf 350volt they have on there site. I believe I will use one of them in my prepro project I will be starting after I get the case done for the Ronshiba.

STeveL · « **Reply #233 on:** 7 Nov 2005, 07:44 pm »

I've updated the clock in my player and it's really not that difficult. The new clock is not cheap, but it think worthwhile.

Here is what I have done. You need to remove part of the original clock circuit, two surface mount capacitors and the crystal. Getting the crystal out is easy, the surface mount capacitors require a little more care.

Here is what I removed from the clock circuit. Crystal oscillator ZY1 along capacitors ZC37/22pf and ZC39/22pf. I don't believe capacitor ZC38 or inductor ZL10 actually exist on the circuit board.

I then soldered the positive output from the Superclock to the pad where ZY1 was, this connects to pin 142 of the Zolan chip ZR36778, the clock input XO. The negative lead from the Superclock I attached to DGND at the - leg of capacitor SAE7. Electrically this is the same point as the grounded leg of capacitor ZC37 or ZC39, it is simply easier to solder to SAE7.

To power the clock I'm currently using a 12V battery. You could pickup power from the main board of the player. There are a couple of voltage regulators that are fed 12Vdc, you could use this as a supply for the new clock. I mounted the clock board on the rear of the case with a couple bolts and stand-offs. That's it!

I'd be interested in hearing how RAM connects the clock on their modified player (I believe someone here mentioned they had one with a clock upgrade). I'm wondering if resistors ZR24 and ZR78 could be removed and replaced with jumpers.

I've attached the schematic of the stock clock circuit below.

Go upgrade your clocks!

I also ditched the stock fuse and soldered in a hydraulic magnetic circuit breaker that I had laying around, just to make the thing more of a Frankenstien.

STeve

BobM · « **Reply #234 on:** 7 Nov 2005, 08:11 pm »

So ... what kind of a difference did the clock make over the stock crystal?

Bob

rhale64 · « **Reply #235 on:** 7 Nov 2005, 08:21 pm »

Bob did you see my pic of the bridge? I would also like to know if the clock made a big enough difference? I am getting ready to order a new case but I cant find one that I like.

STeveL · « **Reply #236 on:** 7 Nov 2005, 08:43 pm »

Quote

So ... what kind of a difference did the clock make over the stock crystal?

Hi Bob,

With the new clock the difference is there.

I'm not one for using all the various audiophile terms, but what I noticed was more detail, especially in the background. I was hearing vocals and instruments that I'd never really noticed before, everything seems to suddenly stand out. There's more air around the instruments, rather than simply a wall of sound. It's more musical and involving. The soundstage might be slightly larger. But for me, the biggest difference is the nuances and detail of guitars and vocals, it was always there, but now it's part of the music.

STeve

rhale64 · « **Reply #237 on:** 8 Nov 2005, 12:07 am »

By the way the Big BlackGate was a VK. I thought it was the FK. I would still do the Jensen if done again.

mcspack · « **Reply #238 on:** 10 Nov 2005, 07:14 pm »

rhale64 · « **Reply #239 on:** 10 Nov 2005, 11:46 pm »

There are several BlackGates in there. I think later on I will experiment some more. I would like to put in a bunch of NX's. But they aren't found in those values. I notice that Vinny in his mods actually decreased capacitance in order to put in nx's. I didn't think that would be good. But maybe it would work in some instances.