[CornellAlum]

OK, I got everything modded like the directions said.  I should mention that I have never modde4d anything in my life, and that the only soldering experience I have had is building portable battery packs and mic cables for concert taping.  Anyway, Everything works fine with one exception, the cd transprt deal where you actually insert the disc isn't getting power.  Everything fires up just fine, but the unit gets stuck in loading mode, and hangs as the transport isn't actually firing up.  It worked before I did all of this, so I am thinking it is something simple.  All of the cables are correct, the power light is coming on, the screen displays just fine, etc.  If anyone could help me, I would be soooo appreciative.  Thanks for all of the instructions, most of it was rather easy for someone just figuring all of this out.  Thanks in advance, and thanks to BOB M for answering all of my really stupid questions.

Thanks

Daryan

[CornellAlum]

[CornellAlum]

[BobM]

There's a commercial group (EVS) performing mods to this player now. Here's a link to their site:

http://www.tweakaudio.com/EVS-2/Modifications_to_SACD,_etc.html

I believe they are charging $300 plus shipping. They use Black Gates instead of the Panasionics that I specified, and then there's their time, so the cost is probably justified - but if you can soldier then you can probably bring it in for under $100 in parts. Of course they do some other proprietary things that they do not specify in their mods notes.

Here's a quote:
"The modified Toshiba sounds slightly better than the modifed Pannies so to me represents better value since it will play SACDs and does not invert the phase when the output stage is removed.  It also puts out 1.5 volts rather than 1.1 (inconsequential to most except certain systems using passive preamp). "

and this

"There are other decent inexpensive players including the Pioneer 563 universal player but this Panasonic is miles ahead of the Pioneer in sound quality. In fact, it sounds way better than the Pioneer 563 that I performed a $400 mod on. I am now currently using the Panasonic as my reference piece in evaluations of my forthcoming amp. It really is that good!!!!! "

so I guess the Toshiba is now their reference after mods. Not a surprise to me.

Enjoy,
Bob

PS - CornelAlum - try editing your extra posts. You can probably delete the duplications. Hope my suggestions (in your PM) help solve your problem.

[CornellAlum]

You can call me Daryan.  I kept getting header messages, I will try the delete button now!

daryan

[Jim in Co]

I'm trying this mod right now.  Very excited to hear the results.  One quick question and if I missed the answer earlier I apologize.  There are two sets of leads coming off the board to the Swenson Caps.  The + leads are coming off the board, where are the - leads coming from?  Thanks in advance.

Jim

[BobM]

Glad to hear you're joining the club. Good results all 'round so far.

I connected the - lead to the underside of the board, right where the original output RCA's are soldiered. Seem logical.

Good luck, and please post your results and impressions after you're completed.

Enjoy,
Bob

[Dmason]

I now have the Samsung HD841, which I picked up because of its HDMI link to use with my new LCD TV, which I caved in to buying .

After letting it cycle for a day and a bit, on first hearing, I would say it completely exceeded my expectations. completely. I will start with the mechanical mods this week, PC/Daruma/rope caulk, and investigate starting with replacement of coupling caps.

This thing plays music far better than any little $150 player ought, in my experience. I think it looks much nicer than the Toshiba.

[guest1632]

There is a fairly new power modification tweak that has been very successfully implemented in source components. Basically, you need 2 .47uF 600V Auricaps (about $25). You put these across the + and - where the power enters the unit, in parallel. So one on top of the other, in effect.

In the 4960 there are 2 X rated caps on either side of a small transformer. I replaced these caps with the 2 Auricaps, in effect doing the same thing as above, except that the small transformer is between the 2 caps. So the ...

[guest1632]

OK, the unit has been burning in on both SACD and CD for about 3 days now. There may be a wee bit more that can be eeked out with time, but it should be 99% there.

On Redbook CD's, comparing the unmodded 4960 to the modded 4960 (from memory):
 I can say that there is a definite improvement in a number of ways. The unmodded unit had good tonality, and that remains. It was slightly light sounding but has increased in body somewhat. For instance, before it would sound like a guitar or bass ha ...

Hi Bob, I have noticed over the years, that on some cheaper UM less expensive CDPlayers, one thing you can do. Look at the various wiring harnesses at the front of the player, This could get depending on how much is there, but separate the wires there. Now some harnesses and I use the term loosely, (group of wires) might not need to be separated. But what I've noticed is a more open sound. The downside, is you really find out what the player has for top end. the bass is usually extended. Just my two sense. This cap mode across the AC line, what is that supposed to do? Ray

[BobM]

Ray - the Auricap tweak has a long history of discussion over at Audio Asylum. Basically these caps do a good job of filtering out AC crud. Why 2 in parallel - dunno - something to do with the sum of the parts (.47 + .47 is damn close to 1uF) and both high and low frequency filtering against the the 60Hz AC cycles. I guess you could use less expensive caps, or even X rated ones like you see in most players. However, many people have tried the Auricaps successfully and reported clearly improved sonics. So I followed the formula. Here's a quote from one thread:

The 0.47 uF cap presents a high impedance to anything low frequency, like 60 Hz. It only shunts high frequency to neutral (i.e. high frequency noise).  I would recommend you pair them up as well. The filtering frequency is determined by the capacitance and if C is too low, then your filtering frequency goes up. That allows a whole bunch of lower frequency noise to go through.

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/96669.html

As for the wiring harness, no doubt you're right about separating the wires and/or replacing them with someting of higher quality. However, if you look inside the unit ytou will see that the harnesses are all computer style flat ribbon cables. A bit of a pain to replace. Give it a try and let us know if the improvements are worth the extra effort.

Thanks,
Bob

[guest1632]

Ray - the Auricap tweak has a long history of discussion over at Audio Asylum. Basically these caps do a good job of filtering out AC crud. Why 2 in parallel - dunno - something to do with the sum of the parts (.47 + .47 is damn close to 1uF) and both high and low frequency filtering against the the 60Hz AC cycles. I guess you could use less expensive caps, or even X rated ones like you see in most players. However, many people have tried the Auricaps successfully and reported clearly improved sonics. So I  ...

[guest1632]

Ray - the Auricap tweak has a long history of discussion over at Audio Asylum. Basically these caps do a good job of filtering out AC crud. Why 2 in parallel - dunno - something to do with the sum of the parts (.47 + .47 is damn close to 1uF) and both high and low frequency filtering against the the 60Hz AC cycles. I guess you could use less expensive caps, or even X rated ones like you see in most players. However, many people have tried the Auricaps successfully and reported clearly improved sonics. So I  ...

[BobM]

Sorry Ray, I can't answer your question about the Auricap values. All I can point you to are the numerous discuissions about this tweak. There are others far more learned than I who might better be able to answer your questions. I suggest you do a search on the tweaks board at Audio Asylum, or even here at Audio Circle, and you will definitely find more information. If your answers aren't there, then you may want to post the question yourself. I know I'm interested in any additional information or improvements to this tweak that you may uncover.

Enjoy,
Bob

[guest1632]

Sorry Ray, I can't answer your question about the Auricap values. All I can point you to are the numerous discuissions about this tweak. There are others far more learned than I who might better be able to answer your questions. I suggest you do a search on the tweaks board at Audio Asylum, or even here at Audio Circle, and you will definitely find more information. If your answers aren't there, then you may want to post the question yourself. I know I'm interested in any additional information or improvements to this tweak that you may uncover.

Enjoy,
Bob

[CornellAlum]

Great news...I have completely followed the original directions and am happy to say that I have the unit up and running fully modded with the basic vinnie mod as Bob had described.  I will let it break in over the weekend and see what i think next week.  I have no need for the swenson mod, so I skipped that part.  I would however like to replace the coax out, I assume that is what it is, any reccomendations on parts?  Also, what about a power cable tweak...could a different power cable come into play here, seeing as the original is directly connected with some pos plstic deal to the pcb?

Daryan

[BobM]

Congratulations. What DAC are you using?

I would strongly advise performing the Swenson mod as well, if only for SACD and DVD-A playability. The coupling caps will only run you $20-30 from Sonicraft.com and you may truly be surprised at the quality of the Redbook playback after this Swenson mod. Use a 1uF, or if you go with my 3uF recommendation also get the Sonicap .1uF  type II's to use as a bypass (they are only $2.15 each).

Comparing the Swenson outputs to the regular op-amp outputs I can tell you there is no comparison. I can easily switch back and forth using the multichannel front RCA's (set to full range and all others turned off). The op amp output is grainy and flat sounding. Not very spectaculkar at all.

As for power cords, I called Belden and asked for a 5 foot sample of their 83802 cable. It's rather stiff, but makes a fine cable for source components with no ground wire to worry about. I just soldiered it directly to the pins where the jack connects. You could install an IEC socket and go that route if you want to, but I really didn't see the need.

I don't know that the power cord will make much of a difference if you're just using the 4960 as a transport. What will DEFINITELY make a difference here is putting some roller block type isolation under the unit. Lots of options there and they absolutely improve all aspects of the playback.

Enjoy, and please let us know what you think,
Bob

[CornellAlum]

Thanks Bob, I actually have all of the parts for the Swenson mod already, so I might as well go ahead and do it since my confidence is improving in modding and such after finally getting everything working.  I dampened the crap out of the machine using some vinyl tile from menard's, did I probably go overboard?  I mean, I REALLY covered the base and top.  I will try out the swenson mod tonight, and report back in the morning.

Daryan

[STeveL]

Hi Everyone,

Thanks very much for all the help so far.  I've picked up the Samsung HD841 and started the mods, this will replace my modified Toshiba 3950.  The Samsung board layout is somewhat different from the Toshiba, as many on the components are in different locations.  I can take a photo if anyone is interested.  Caps PEF23 and PES54 that BobM could not find, are on the HD841 board.  

Right now all I've done is replace the X caps with the .47uF Auricaps.  Then put the player on a decent shelf with DIY rollerblocks.

I was thinking of trying Black Gate caps instead of the Panasonics.  Would this be worth while?  If so, where would they be of the most benefit.  I figure in the DAC and SACD area would be best?  AE8,9,22 and AE7 feeding the DAC and SAE1,2,3,5,6,SE1 for SACD.

I'm also planning on doing the Swenson mod to the L&R output.  And, thinking of doing the same for the Multichannel outputs.  So where would I pickup the +/- for the  L&R, Centre and Surround channels.  

It would be really appreciated if someone could share the schematic for this player, as this would answer some of my questions.  I have not been able to find the service manual here in Canada.

Thanks,
Steve

[BobM]

Here's where you can order the service manual - it has the full schematic and parts list included. You can get it on paper or CD.

J&J Int'l at 1-800-627-4368

You can definitely do a "Swenson" for multichannel. Here's the locations, from what I can see on the schematic:

L (audio) AE10
R (audio) AE20

LF (multi) AE4
RF (multi) AE5
C  (multi) AE15
LR (multi) AE19
RR (multi) AE12

AE17 is another channel going to an output jack, but it is not labelled on the schematic. Perhaps the bass or perhaps the rear center? It would be the jack just above (below?) the center channel jack.

Enjoy,
Bob