Newbie Help - Ncore build

zenpmd · « **Reply #80 on:** 3 Aug 2014, 08:40 pm »

What is the sheild?

I dont have a DMM.

Sorry for being slow.

jtwrace · « **Reply #81 on:** 3 Aug 2014, 09:20 pm »

The silver mesh that's around the wire loom.

This thread will probably help you.

zenpmd · « **Reply #82 on:** 3 Aug 2014, 09:33 pm »

Ah crap. In that case it looks like Ill have to rewire. Cut off what Ive got, somehow salvace the balanced input connector, and start again on that connection. I dont see any other way of making the sheild reach. What does that sheild achieve?

zenpmd · « **Reply #83 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 05:32 am »

Here is a better photo of what Ive done so far

http://s2.postimg.org/cnfm81gux/sleeping_3.jpg

jtwrace · « **Reply #84 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 12:08 pm »

Quote from: zenpmd on 4 Aug 2014, 05:32 am

Here is a better photo of what Ive done so far

http://s2.postimg.org/cnfm81gux/sleeping_3.jpg

Yes, your first main issue is with the XLR wiring as I've said above. Then it's just about cleaning everything else up. Get the input wiring done and you will be on your way.

Where are you located?

zenpmd · « **Reply #85 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 04:00 pm »

I live in England.

Is Nampon in the IEC an effective ground?

So I get the shield, twist it into a cable, and then solder it where? Can I get another wire and just extent what little shield I can muster in order to not have to redo the other soldering?

zenpmd · « **Reply #86 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 08:47 pm »

I have just attached nampon to the screw on the xlr connection instead of IEC. Still the same hum and nothing else.

I am going to write to Hypex telling them their manual is terrible and useless. Everything I have done is super basic, none of this is hard, so I am in all the more disbeliedf that the manual doesnt just say "put this here, put this there..." etc.!

What else do I do? Something with this sheild thing?
Modify message

jtwrace · « **Reply #87 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 09:20 pm »

Quote from: zenpmd on 4 Aug 2014, 08:47 pm

I have just attached nampon to the screw on the xlr connection instead of IEC. Still the same hum and nothing else.

I am going to write to Hypex telling them their manual is terrible and useless. Everything I have done is super basic, none of this is hard, so I am in all the more disbeliedf that the manual doesnt just say "put this here, put this there..." etc.!

What else do I do? Something with this sheild thing?
Modify message

The funny part is that the manual does say that.....I posted it above including the links that have it.

Again, You need the shield!!!

zenpmd · « **Reply #88 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 09:24 pm »

So to double confirm, where do I connect the sheild to?

barrows · « **Reply #89 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 09:32 pm »

Nampon, the thin black wire from the input section of each module must connect to ground.
Shield, the braided covering around the input wiring must connect to ground, pull back some shield, twist it together, and then connect it to ground.

Typically, assuming a metal chassis, the standard way to build a NC-400 based amplifier is to connect the shield to the chassis, usually close to the XLR jack-yes, it can be connected via the screw holding the XLR jack in place as long as there is a good connection there (metal to metal, must remove any paint or anodizing at the connection point). And then connect the Nampon wire to chassis as well: I prefer to connect the Nampon via a switch, which can then be used to put the amp in a standby mode (switch off) which mutes the output. But in any case, both the shield and Nampon must be connected to ground, and the typical way to do that is to connect them both to chassis, and run a short wire from the XLR pin 1 also to chassis.

zenpmd · « **Reply #90 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 09:42 pm »

Hmmm. Just connected both nampon and sheild to xlr cable and got huge noise coming out of speaker. Like a massive burst of distortion. Any idea? I connected sheild using blue tack.

jtwrace · « **Reply #91 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 09:43 pm »

Quote from: zenpmd on 4 Aug 2014, 09:42 pm

Hmmm. Just connected both nampon and sheild to xlr cable and got huge noise coming out of speaker. Like a massive burst of distortion. Any idea? I connected sheild using blue tack.

That's a first! Not going to work....solder.

zenpmd · « **Reply #92 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 09:43 pm »

Should I get some wire from xlr input point 1 and also connect to ground?

jtwrace · « **Reply #93 on:** 4 Aug 2014, 09:45 pm »

Make sure you're going to the proper pin. See the picture here http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector

farquad · « **Reply #94 on:** 5 Aug 2014, 04:33 am »

Quote from: zenpmd on 4 Aug 2014, 05:32 am

Here is a better photo of what Ive done so far

http://s2.postimg.org/cnfm81gux/sleeping_3.jpg

I might be wrong but are the speaker terminals installed wrong?
In the picture, it looks like there are double white and double red insulation on the inside of the case.
Usually the terminals have one insulation piece which goes on the inside of case and one on the outside. If not installed correctly one connection might be to close to the case.

zenpmd · « **Reply #95 on:** 5 Aug 2014, 05:45 am »

Hi Farquad. What do you mean? There is only a single piece of cable going from each terminal

srb · « **Reply #96 on:** 5 Aug 2014, 05:46 am »

Quote from: farquad on 5 Aug 2014, 04:33 am

I might be wrong but are the speaker terminals installed wrong?
In the picture, it looks like there are double white and double red insulation on the inside of the case.
Usually the terminals have one insulation piece which goes on the inside of case and one on the outside. If not installed correctly one connection might be to close to the case.

That's what I was wondering when I posted

Quote from: srb on 3 Aug 2014, 07:27 pm

I would also check that your speaker output binding post insulators are correctly installed and working so that there is no short to ground through the chassis.

Quote from: zenpmd on 3 Aug 2014, 08:40 pm

I dont have a DMM.

Not everyone can afford a nice Fluke meter, but with all due respect I can't really imagine attempting even a basic modular DIY build without some sort of meter to test for voltages and continuity/shorts which can be readily measured with a very basic $10 - $20 multimeter.

Steve

zenpmd · « **Reply #97 on:** 5 Aug 2014, 11:11 am »

Hi Steve

its not money, its that I wouldn know what to do with it. I started this project thinking it would all be plug and play like a pc build!

What is the loudspeaker connection issue and how do I resolve it?

jtwrace · « **Reply #98 on:** 5 Aug 2014, 02:15 pm »

Quote from: zenpmd on 5 Aug 2014, 11:11 am

Hi Steve

its not money, its that I wouldn know what to do with it. I started this project thinking it would all be plug and play like a pc build!

What is the loudspeaker connection issue and how do I resolve it?

The only way you will learn what to do with it is if you own it and come to a place like this. It's really easy and should be one of those items that everyone has in their toolbox. Assembling the NC400's are about as easy as a PC. Some basic knowledge and common sense is all that's required.

The most important part of common sense being to make sure the unit is unplugged before sticking your fingers near anything. Other than that, we can help you with the rest if you're willing to read and learn.

farquad · « **Reply #99 on:** 5 Aug 2014, 04:05 pm »

Quote from: zenpmd on 5 Aug 2014, 05:45 am

Hi Farquad. What do you mean? There is only a single piece of cable going from each terminal

The speaker terminals, not the cable, has one pair of round isolation each made of hard plastic.
One part of the pair is going on the inside of the case and the other on the outside. They are supposed to touch eachother through the whole you have drilled and isolate the terminals metal piece from the case. Most speaker terminals work like this. The metal of the terminal should absolutely not touch the case. It would be really bad for the amplifier.