[mlundy57]

I think I see what you are saying. I just looked at the the driver closer and saw that there are two gaskets on the frame. A thin one on the back side that is continuous and the thick one on the front side. The thick front one is not continuous. It is in 4 sections but all are glued down.

If I understand you correctly, it is the thin continuous gasket on the back of the frame that is intended to seal against the baffle, correct?

If the driver is mounted that way, do you leave the thick 4 part gasket on the front or do you remove it and try to clean up the glue?

Mike

[Danny Richie]

If I understand you correctly, it is the thin continuous gasket on the back of the frame that is intended to seal against the baffle, correct?

Yes.

If the driver is mounted that way, do you leave the thick 4 part gasket on the front or do you remove it and try to clean up the glue?

You can leave it or remove it.

[mlundy57]

Thanks Danny.

With the weight of this driver, especially in a down firing position, would it be better to mount these drivers using socket head bolts and threaded inserts instead of screws?

Also, is MDF strong enough to secure the driver or would Baltic Birch ply be better?

Mike

[IronForge]

What is the minimum amplifier wattage recommended for this?

[Danny Richie]

Thanks Danny.

With the weight of this driver, especially in a down firing position, would it be better to mount these drivers using socket head bolts and threaded inserts instead of screws?

Also, is MDF strong enough to secure the driver or would Baltic Birch ply be better?

Mike

You can just use wood screws if you want. There will be 8 of them in these things. No problem.

[Danny Richie]

What is the minimum amplifier wattage recommended for this?

I would at least put a 150 watt amp on them.

[mlundy57]

I would at least put a 150 watt amp on them.

This is the only plate amp Parts Express has that would meet your minimum recommendation of 150 watts into 8 ohms (it's published rating is 300 watts RMS into 4 ohms) and with cutout dimensions that will fit the box. Even then, it will be very close to the port opening.

http://www.parts-express.com/yung-sd300-6-300w-class-d-subwoofer-plate-amplifier-module-with-6-db-at-30-hz--301-510

Any other amp recommendations that would provide more than 150 watts and fit the box?

Mike

[IronForge]

This is the only plate amp Parts Express has that would meet your minimum recommendation of 150 watts into 8 ohms (it's published rating is 300 watts RMS into 4 ohms) and with cutout dimensions that will fit the box. Even then, it will be very close to the port opening.

http://www.parts-express.com/yung-sd300-6-300w-class-d-subwoofer-plate-amplifier-module-with-6-db-at-30-hz--301-510

Any other amp recommendations that would provide more than 150 watts and fit the box?

Mike

If the space is a concern, maybe an external amplifier?  Maybe not a rack mount in this case but a separate enclosure for the amp could be made and just run the speaker wire to the sub?

[Danny Richie]

You can drive these with less power, but to get reasonable output levels from these I recommend that much power or more.

[Millicent Bystander]

Danny
I've got two of the X-Subs assembled and am ready to add the no-rez.

Q1) When adding the no-rez to the inside surfaces do I avoid encroaching the baffle by 1.5 inches to allow the woofer to breathe?

Q2) Should this same strategy be applied to the internal entrance of the port?

Q3) Should the empty space of the front baffle be covered in no-rez (avoiding encroachment of the woofer)?

Q4) Are there any advantages / disadvantages to using a single external subwoofer amplifier to drive a pair of X-Subs? I've yet to cut the amp hole in the side panels and wondered if there was an economy to using a single external amp v 2x Yung SD200-6?

Elliott

 

[Danny Richie]

Danny
I've got two of the X-Subs assembled and am ready to add the no-rez.

Q1) When adding the no-rez to the inside surfaces do I avoid encroaching the baffle by 1.5 inches to allow the woofer to breathe?

Q2) Should this same strategy be applied to the internal entrance of the port?

Q3) Should the empty space of the front baffle be covered in no-rez (avoiding encroachment of the woofer)?

Q4) Are there any advantages / disadvantages to using a single external subwoofer amplifier to drive a pair of X-Subs? I've yet to cut the amp hole in the side panels and wondered if there was an economy to using a single external amp v 2x Yung SD200-6?

Elliott

Welcome to AC.

Q1 through Q3, Yes.

Q4, you can drive them both with one amp. Putting them in parallel will drop the impedance to 4 ohms. No problem for most plate amps.

[mlundy57]

Danny,

How far away from the port opening should the inside cover of the amplifier be kept?

Also, for the dual driver version you suggested building two X-Subs side by side sharing a side wall. Should this wall be solid all the way up keeping both air chambers and both ports separate or should I cut holes in the shared sidewall like you would an internal brace and make the port chambers one wide continuous port?

Mike

[Millicent Bystander]

Q4, you can drive them both with one amp. Putting them in parallel will drop the impedance to 4 ohms. No problem for most plate amps.

Thank you.

So instead of purchasing two Yung SD200-6 and installing in each cabinet. I would buy one larger, more powerful plate amp with similar qualities such as the SD500-6?

How might I install and connect this to the woofers of each cabinet? I've not seen this done before.

[jparkhur]

EDIT


Easy.  Make a small box of the amp to sit in where ever you put it.  Does not need a back, and then run the wires in series thus creating an 8 ohm load to work your new 500 watt amp (at 4 ohms and 250-300 at 8 ohms).  Easy. 

Positive of amp to positive of first speaker, negative of first speaker to positive of second driver, negative of second driver to negative of amp.  8 ohm load ish.. 



EDIT..  this only works for 4 ohm drivers.    X subs are 8..   MY BAD>>>>>

[Danny Richie]

Actually John those 8" woofers are 8 ohm woofers. So he can connect them in parallel to that amp.

Having more power than you need is not a bad thing. That will give you a lot of headroom. But be careful, you will have enough power to overdrive them if you are not careful.

[jparkhur]

OUCH.. wooops.. 

Ok..  connect positive and negative to first driver and then run from the speaker terminals to the other driver OR

just run two wires to each one..   the amp will see one speaker and a 4 ohm relative load... 

JP

[Millicent Bystander]

So he can connect them in parallel to that amp.

Like this?
http://www.hometoys.com/htinews/jun05/articles/nigelb/fig2.gif

Do I understand the Yung SD500-6 is a little overkill for this configuration? Perhaps the SD300-6 is more suitable?

Any acoustic advantages / disadvantages to building an external plate amp box versus installing "onboard"? Or is it purely a matter of placement flexibility from the onboard option that is prefered? I think if the SA-1 was still available or I could source an alternative that would fit on the X-Sub's rear panel I wouldn't be exploring this avenue.

[jparkhur]

Like this?
http://www.hometoys.com/htinews/jun05/articles/nigelb/fig2.gif

Do I understand the Yung SD500-6 is a little overkill for this configuration? Perhaps the SD300-6 is more suitable?

Any acoustic advantages / disadvantages to building an external plate amp box versus installing "onboard"? Or is it purely a matter of placement flexibility from the onboard option that is prefered? I think if the SA-1 was still available or I could source an alternative that would fit on the X-Sub's rear panel I wouldn't be exploring this avenue.

PERFECT....   

[Danny Richie]

Yeap, that's it. And 300 watts of power is a good sized amp for the pair.

There is no real advantage or disadvantage with the amp being external or mounted into the box panel.

[mlundy57]

Danny,

How far away from the port opening should the inside cover of the amplifier be kept?

Also, for the dual driver version you suggested building two X-Subs side by side sharing a side wall. Should this wall be solid all the way up keeping both air chambers and both ports separate or should I cut holes in the shared sidewall like you would an internal brace and make the port chambers one wide continuous port?

Mike

The cutout dimensions are 9 3/4"W x 6 5/8"H x 2 1/2"D.  At 9 3/4"W it is too wide to fit normally so I would have to turn it sideways to fit. That would stick the top of the amp right in the port opening. 

What do you think about extending the sides, top and bottom 2" beyond the rear baffle then adding a second back with a cutout for the amp? This would put the amp in it's own enclosure attached to the back of the box.

At 2" deep this would leave 1/4" between the back of the amp and the rear baffle. Is this enough room or would it cause the amp to overheat?

If I do this I would have to run hook-up wires from the driver through the rear baffle to the amp. How would you seal this opening?

Mike