[slosjo]

Test setup complete.  It sounds great just sitting on my table, can't wait to hear the finished product. 
Side note, everything arrived in great shape and was well packed and padded.  Props to Danny.

[Guy 13]

Test setup complete.  It sounds great just sitting on my table, can't wait to hear the finished product. 
Side note, everything arrived in great shape and was well packed and padded.  Props to Danny.

Hi slosjo and all Audio Circle members.
Is the beer bottle on the right of the picture part of the test set up?
We are all anxious to see the finish product.

Guy 13

[slosjo]

Is the beer bottle on the right of the picture part of the test set up?

It turns out that good beer is an important part of speaker building.

[mlundy57]

Once you cut out the circle, I don't believe there is any way to increase the diameter evenly with a router.  A spindle sander would have been useful, but again, one little slip up with a power tool and you've messed up the whole thing.

There is a way to do it with a router. Get a piece of 1/4" or 3/16" hardboard and use the router to cut the hole size you actually need. This becomes your pattern. Make sure the hardboard is long enough to clamp to your baffle without the clamps interfering with the router. Center the pattern around the existing hole, clamp it down then use a pattern bit (bearing on the top) in the router to enlarge the baffle holes.

I know what you mean about hours of sanding. The first pair of tweeter holes I cut was for a pair of X-LS Encores (same Peerless tweeter). I didn't cut the rabbet deep enough and didn't have a pattern bit so I sanded them all around until the tweeters set flush.

It's OK if the opening for the tweeter terminals is a little big, as long as there is enough of the rabbet left for the faceplate to mount and seal well.

Mike

[mlundy57]

It turns out that good beer is an important part of speaker building.

I thought good beer was an important part of almost everything (sometimes wine or single malt scotch works better) 

Mike

[Captainhemo]

I thought good beer was an important part of almost everything (sometimes wine or single malt scotch works better) 

Mike

You guys could have just used your router and circle jig to  cut a plug to fit snuggly in the throu hole .  Once you  had it in place,    you could have  either increased the  diameter or depth of the  recess then removed the plug.
Works well and can save a ton of sanding 

-jay

[mlundy57]

You guys could have just used your router and circle jig to  cut a plug to fit snuggly in the throu hole .  Once you  had it in place,    you could have  either increased the  diameter or depth of the  recess then removed the plug.
Works well and can save a ton of sanding 

-jay

Hadn't thought about a plug for the rabbet issue. As I understand it slosjo's issue was with the through hole not the rabbet. I brought up the rabbet issue as another example of spending hours doing something with sandpaper that could have been done in seconds with a router had I known how.

How tight do you need to make the plug so it holds position while you route the rabbet?

Mike

[slosjo]

Visited my local proprietor of fine paints today and he recommended this product.  Anyone used this before?
Apparently it has high solids and builds well, flows well, dries hard, and is very clear.
I'll try a sample piece of birch tonight.
I've used graham paints in the past and they are great.

[Captainhemo]

Hadn't thought about a plug for the rabbet issue. As I understand it slosjo's issue was with the through hole not the rabbet. I brought up the rabbet issue as another example of spending hours doing something with sandpaper that could have been done in seconds with a router had I known how.

How tight do you need to make the plug so it holds position while you route the rabbet?

Mike

If just increasing the depth  or diameter of the faceplate recess, the plug would  only need to be snug so long as you have  some backing so it doesn't push through,  just do it on a nice flat surface and no worries..  All it needs to do is act as a center for the  circle jig pin.

 I'll have to go back and  re-read  the issue with the tweeter... I thought the diameter  he cut the recess was too small  for the faceplate to fit into.  If that were the case,  the plug would work  for that as well.
I used the same technigue to   increae the diameter of the through hole in some cabinets I had originally built for the X LS Classics but tha  decided to go with the large faceplate Encore kit.  Only difference was I glued the plugs in place,  once it set up,  I recut the through holes to the  Encore size which also  took out  all of the plug

-jay

[slosjo]

If just increasing the depth  or diameter of the faceplate recess, the plug would  only need to be snug so long as you have  some backing so it doesn't push through,  just do it on a nice flat surface and no worries..  All it needs to do is act as a center for the  circle jig pin.

 I'll have to go back and  re-read  the issue with the tweeter... I thought the diameter  he cut the recess was too small  for the faceplate to fit into.  If that were the case,  the plug would work  for that as well.
I used the same technigue to   increae the diameter of the through hole in some cabinets I had originally built for the X LS Classics but tha  decided to go with the large faceplate Encore kit.  Only difference was I glued the plugs in place,  once it set up,  I recut the through holes to the  Encore size which also  took out  all of the plug

-jay

Actually the whole thing was too small and I had to sand out both the recess, and the through hole.  I think that part of the problem is that I'm using an infinitely variable circle jig, so to set it up I have to measure from the center of the pin to the outside of the router bit.  There are no presets. I didn't want to mess up my $65 piece of wood, so I went conservative.

[Captainhemo]

If you've got  some calipers,  you  could measure from the  outside of the pin   and   add 1/2 the diameter  of the  pin  (usually 1/8" so  add 1/16") to  your cutout dimension from the plans .

-jay

[mlundy57]

Actually the whole thing was too small and I had to sand out both the recess, and the through hole.  I think that part of the problem is that I'm using an infinitely variable circle jig, so to set it up I have to measure from the center of the pin to the outside of the router bit.  There are no presets. I didn't want to mess up my $65 piece of wood, so I went conservative.

I use a similar type circle jig called a Router Buddy. Jay is correct about using calipers to set this type of jig up. I also use a scrap piece of wood to do the setup and adjustments. Once I have the diameter (and depth if needed) dialed in on the piece of scrap I make the cut on the baffle.

Mike

[bdp24]

I use a similar type circle jig called a Router Buddy. Jay is correct about using calipers to set this type of jig up. I also use a scrap piece of wood to do the setup and adjustments. Once I have the diameter (and depth if needed) dialed in on the piece of scrap I make the cut on the baffle.

Mike

Mike , have you used both the Router Buddy and the Jasper Circle Jig?

[mlundy57]

Mike , have you used both the Router Buddy and the Jasper Circle Jig?

Yes. I like the Router Buddy much better. The Jasper is faster to set up and just fine as long as you are willing to work with tolerances of plus or minus 0.062" (1/16"). With a pair of digital calipers the Router Buddy can be set up to plus or minus 0.001". I usually like to work with the same tolerances I did as a factory setup attendant (aka line mechanic), plus or minus 0.003" so I prefer the Router Buddy. Especially since I learned a trick to get it adjusted with a maximum of three attempts (initial setup and two adjustments). More than half the time I can dial it in with the initial setup and one adjustment. The Jasper sits on the shelf gathering dust.

Mike

[bdp24]

Plus the Router Buddy has a built in edge guide. Handy.

[slosjo]

Lots of sanding lately, and now I'm ready to paint.  Probably won't begin until next weekend.  Here is everything dry fit and prepped.

[mlundy57]

Looks good. Getting closer to the fun 

Mike

[Nick77]

Those look great, you are going to have a terrific set of speakers for the investment. 

[slosjo]

Question for the group:

I made a test piece of MDF with a butt joint and roundover.  Painted it.
I'm pretty happy with the finish; however the joint became clearly visible after a couple days.
I used campbell clawlock primer, which is a high solids / high build product.  I was hoping that would be enough after two coats to smooth over the joints.  Apparently not.


The question is am I on the right track now?  I hoping if I feather this out the joints will disappear under the clawlock and my topcoat(s).






Thanks all

[slosjo]

Visited my local proprietor of fine paints today and he recommended this product.  Anyone used this before?
Apparently it has high solids and builds well, flows well, dries hard, and is very clear.
I'll try a sample piece of birch tonight.
I've used graham paints in the past and they are great.

For the benefit of all, this Graham Ceramithane is a fantastic product.  It completely filled the end grain on the birch after two coats, no primer or sealer needed.  It brushes on really well leaving no brushstrokes.  Highly recommended.  A little pricey at $25 per quart, but no need to buy anything else such as sanding sealer so you save there.  They offer it in a gloss and matte finish.