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Here you go:http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?t=535I'm doing a hybrid of sorts, built custom 2' x 7' x 6" frames (due to roof cut-in on ceiling), place diagonally into the corners, and will have 24" x 17" x 17" triangles behind them. Using Owens Corning 703 insulation panels.These folks sell the OC703, maybe there's a branch near you:http://www.distributionintl.com/locations.html
They mention a few other alternatives on that web page. I've found using a large kitchen "chef's" knife works great cutting that type of stuff.
I typically use a bread knife to cut rigid fiber board. Works really well.
I have been doing some research since first posting this and it seems that R-13 pink fiberglass works well for "superchunk" style bass traps. I have seen a few mention Roxul Safe and Sound as another option. Just curious how these compare for the "superchunk" bass traps?
I used a product called Ultra Touch, it's made from recycled blue jeans, is nicer to work with than fiberglass and slightly better than fiberglass at sound absorption. Home depot carries it and it comes in batts and loose fill.
Pink R13 would be a waste of time in my book. You need the pound cake of insulation and that is 703 or 705 or Roxul equivalent to stop multiple frequencies. I think Bob Gold or someone had a website that listed the absorption characteristics of materials and standard pink insulation is only good for very high frequencies unless you could compress multiple layers of it to replicate the density of 703. Not a practical task. A box of 703 shipped these days is in the $75 area for 12 inches thick, 2 feet wide, by 4 feet long in thicknesses of 1, 2, 4, or 6 inches. Two boxes cut into triangles will give you 2 corner traps for 8 foot ceilings.
Interesting. I have been reading several threads that say R-13 is adequate and may even be better for bass traps. This is based off of the "superchunk" design, not rigid panels spanning the corners. I welcome further discussion about these 2 materials.
There is an inverse relationship with gas flow resistance (GRF) and thickness of a trap. As the trap becomes thicker, a lower GFR material (pink fluffy) will absorb down lower. Compressing the fluffy will decrease low end performance.http://www.acousticmodelling.com/GFR of 703 is around 16000 GFR of Pink Fluffy 5000
Your comments are more in line with what I had been reading. What I couldn't find is if there is a specific depth that the bass trap needs to be. Most unfaced R-13 is 15" so my plan would be to cut a 15x15 square in half on the angle which would result in roughly a 21.2" wide bass trap in the front facing into the room. This would make the depth of the trap roughly 10.6". Would this be sufficient depth for R-13 to work effectively?
You are going to want them thicker and wider then that. I would look to make them 24" across the corner and 17" on the sides. GlennGIK Acoustics.
Thanks for your response Glenn. At a 24" face, will R-13 be sufficient as a bass trap or would I be better of going with Roxul Safe and Sound?