[Peter J]

The structural inspection was signed off on Friday, so with any luck the electrical will happen this week, at least that is what the electrical dudes are predicting, we shall see. Dragged the trailer out today and picked up a pile of 2x4's to build the partition walls to create a room for the compressor and dust collector and one for the metal working tools. Grabbed some doors as well, hoping my plan to use two pocket doors into the machine room will work, I want a large opening that can be closed easily, I think this will work OK and if not, orange depot will take them back.
 
UPS shows the epoxy paint kit for the floor being delivered tomorrow, so I need to get that applied around the schedule of the electricians but it only takes a day to cure, so that shouldn't be too bad.

Mike, do yourself a favor and use good hardware on your pockets, the cheap stuff is more frustration than it's worth, especially in the long haul. Johnson makes good stuff and they sell direct. Good hardware make all the difference IMHO.

http://www.johnsonhardware.com/pdindex.htm

The other thing that makes them work nicely is a heavier door.  I'd recommend a solid core rather than hollow. Doesn't need to be elaborate... can be a cheaper particle board core. The weight is the key. And if you don't need latching capability, just get an easy to grab end pull and or finger cup. Ideas here:

http://www.build.com/pocket-door-hardware/c50041?searched=main%3Ahome&term=pocket+door+hardware

[mgalusha]

Mike, do yourself a favor and use good hardware on your pockets, the cheap stuff is more frustration than it's worth, especially in the long haul. Johnson makes good stuff and they sell direct. Good hardware make all the difference IMHO.

http://www.johnsonhardware.com/pdindex.htm

The other thing that makes them work nicely is a heavier door.  I'd recommend a solid core rather than hollow. Doesn't need to be elaborate... can be a cheaper particle board core. The weight is the key. And if you don't need latching capability, just get an easy to grab end pull and or finger cup. Ideas here:

http://www.build.com/pocket-door-hardware/c50041?searched=main%3Ahome&term=pocket+door+hardware

Appreciate the info, thanks very much.

[TomS]

That's good advice. We have some solid core interior doors with the Johnson hardware and love them.

[Don_S]

Mike,

I think your first project should be to build the doors you need.  What did you say about fate?  When the shop is ready (almost) the project will appear.

[Bob in St. Louis]

I think your first project should be to build the doors you need. 

There you go, right there!!! 

The question is....solid hardwood, or an exotic veneer? 

[mgalusha]

It's been a while since I've updated this but progress has been made. All the interior framing is done and I've finished all the electrical, inspection scheduled for tomorrow morning. I got the pocket doors in today, yes I used Johnson hardware. . I didn't opt for solid core doors as they won't get a lot of use and I'm really not worried about it. As you can see there is a large gap under the doors. This is because I extended the wall footer to the end of the door. Since there are no adjoining walls I used OSB to provide some support for the doors and having the footer provided an attachment point. I'm actually quite happy with how solid the wall turned out by the doors. Not looking for airtight, just something to keep the majority of dust out of the machine area.

Assuming the electrical inspection goes well tomorrow, I can start insulating and get the drywall in. Still need to add some roof vents before drywall but that shouldn't be too bad.

[Bob in St. Louis]

That'll work, looking great! 

Is is common there to have the slab sectioned off like that? I've never seen that before.

It also looks like you'll have some extra room for storage space in the trusses.
Maybe enough room to walk in?

Bob

[mgalusha]

That'll work, looking great! 

Is is common there to have the slab sectioned off like that? I've never seen that before.

It also looks like you'll have some extra room for storage space in the trusses.
Maybe enough room to walk in?

Bob,

The slab has the gaps for expansion, our soil tends to move quite a bit. The foundation of the house is the same way. If I were a little person I might be able to walk on the joists but it's perhaps 5ft to the peak, maybe a bit less, so not a lot of storage up there but some is usable. I know how you like storage.

[TrungT]

Mike.
Looking great.

[WireNut]

 
 Hi Mike,

 Awesome space. Any plans on putting small mills, drill presses, manual lathes in there 
 
 

[mgalusha]

Awesome space. Any plans on putting small mills, drill presses, manual lathes in there 
 

All of the above, that is why I split it into two rooms.

[jtwrace]

Will you be putting plywood up on the interior walls under the Drywall?  I know it's a lot more work but I've always done it in my workshops.  It makes hanging things that tend to be heavier much easier and way more sturdier.  Also adds a layer of insulation which is nice.  Just a thought.

[mgalusha]

Will you be putting plywood up on the interior walls under the Drywall?  I know it's a lot more work but I've always done it in my workshops.  It makes hanging things that tend to be heavier much easier and way more sturdier.  Also adds a layer of insulation which is nice.  Just a thought.

I thought about it but decided not to.

[Bob in St. Louis]

Double layers of 5/8" with GreenGlue in between?

Oh wait.... sorry. Wrong room. 

[mgalusha]

Double layers of 5/8" with GreenGlue in between?

Oh wait.... sorry. Wrong room. 

LMAO.

[rklein]

Looking great Mike! 

I am sure it will be finished by the time I am back out your way.

Regards,

Randy