[JackD]

My QL-F6 is all diecast aluminum.  Not aware of any plastic.  The F61 however is part plastic

http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-QL-F6.html

[TheChairGuy]

My QL-F6 is all diecast aluminum.  Not aware of any plastic.  The F61 however is part plastic

http://www.thevintageknob.org/jvc-QL-F6.html

Maybe the QL-F6 is hung on a frame of aluminum...but what is on the outside would is most closely resembled to plastic.  It's a damped kind (quite nice, actually) - perhaps mixed with a type of resin as many of the Kenwoods are - but plastic, nonetheless.

The table as I've found the JVC QL-F4 and JL-A20 before it - benefits substantially from the liberal application of modeling clay inside (or rope caulk....but that stuff is nasty on ones hands/skin)

[neobop]

Any plinth such as these with a cavity, is going to resonate like the inside of a speaker cabinet or a drum. The material comprising the surface of the cavity, including the bottom panel, determines some of those resonant properties. Diecast aluminum can ring like a bell, just as most of these platters will. It tends to ring less when attached to an adjoining structure.  These plinths are usually made of MDF, plywood, aluminum, and various plastic compounds including "non-resonant" ones like some Sonys.

Non resonant or not, my Sony is much better with the inside filled with clay.  Bass and solidity are greatly improved.  It was pretty heavy to begin with, now it weighs over 30 lbs. That's not at all excessive for a table. In general, the more rigid the top plate of a plinth the better, and the structural rigidity of a most cabinets will benefit from bracing, like a speaker cabinet, but without fill (clay) it becomes a more efficient drum.

One of the main reasons the Kenwood KD-500/600 series is so nice, is the cabinet. It's not faux marble, or corian, it's polyester resin (auto body putty) mixed with ground limestone. The 600 weighs 32 lbs w/o an arm and the cavity is small. 

On it's more recent tables, Denon started coating the underside of the platter with rubber. This could be applied with rubber car damping spray, but be careful of any magnetic strips for speed sensing and platter seating/contact considerations. 
neo

[JackD]

neobop

I have no doubt that the F-6 might benefit from some dampening as have others I have done, but I have been hesitant so far with it being so shallow, just a hair over 2", and with all of the moving parts.  I will be taking the bottom off soon as I have now sourced a new tonearm rest assembly from a donor table to replace the one on there now with the broken clip.  While it is apart I may apply a thin layer of modeling clay to the bottom panel and see what difference it makes.  It made a real noticable difference to the QL-A7 when I filled the hollow cavity around the TT-71 motor assembly.

[Maritan]

Just an update to say no update. 

Took the Border Collies herding today and instead of working/ tinkering on things, I'm just enjoying the calm in the house.

There will be some tinkering done later. Enjoy your weekend, folks. 

[JackD]

All things in time.  You have a great weekend too.

[neobop]

neobop

I have no doubt that the F-6 might benefit from some dampening as have others I have done, but I have been hesitant so far with it being so shallow, just a hair over 2", and with all of the moving parts.  I will be taking the bottom off soon as I have now sourced a new tonearm rest assembly from a donor table to replace the one on there now with the broken clip.  While it is apart I may apply a thin layer of modeling clay to the bottom panel and see what difference it makes.  It made a real noticable difference to the QL-A7 when I filled the hollow cavity around the TT-71 motor assembly.

Jack,
Good idea, the bottom panel is likely to be the worst offender.  Most are flimsy like masonite, and will flex. 
For those reading this and thinking about an easy mod, if the bottom panel has vent holes it might be a good idea to keep them unblocked.
neo

[TheChairGuy]

neobop

I have no doubt that the F-6 might benefit from some dampening as have others I have done, but I have been hesitant so far with it being so shallow, just a hair over 2", and with all of the moving parts.  I will be taking the bottom off soon as I have now sourced a new tonearm rest assembly from a donor table to replace the one on there now with the broken clip.  While it is apart I may apply a thin layer of modeling clay to the bottom panel and see what difference it makes.  It made a real noticable difference to the QL-A7 when I filled the hollow cavity around the TT-71 motor assembly.

Jack, it's been a while since I filled mine (maybe 4 years now), but I'm sure I jammed at least 5 lbs into the base of the F6 and more likely something in the 6-7lb range.  Those 2" available inside is deceptive - you can jam a lot inside without gumming up anything. 

I usually buy 8lbs of clay in total (as it's cheap at ~ $4 a lb at Jo-Ann Fabric or elsewhere) and when I typically open the bottom of the TT's I say the same thing: "Ain't no way more than a couple pounds will fit in there".  Invariably, I get no less than 5lbs in ANY hollow bodied JVC turntable and have gotten 8lbs inside the very deep QL-Y66F base. 

So, you'd be surprised how much space there is to fill once you get cracking.

I've done JUST the bottom base with both spray on rubberized compound (my fave is DupliColor UC103 - available at O'Reilly Auto for $9.99 a can) and lined with a layer of clay.  The benefits are minimal, at best.  The corners are where you should start any application of clay to the insides of your deck and work your way (and courage!  ) up to building in additional layers until no more can fit anywhere inside. 

When you do that, the effect is often gargantuan - like thinking you bought a table for $1000 more if the drive mechanism and tonearm are good that go along with it. 

Just doing the corners is probably in most ways far more beneficial I've found than simply the bottom tray if you want to toe your way into the ordeal with most benefit and little harm one can do.

John 

[TheChairGuy]

Here's how much you can fill the bottom with NO adverse effects to the player.....and only MUCH better sound in the end:


Believe it or not, there is benefit to claying the whole (outer) top and sides, too.  But, you got yourself one dreadfully looking weird, but sensational sounding table:



I even use a spot of plasticlay in the underpart of the beyonet/removable headshell.....it damps things well right at the start.  Most of the headshells are very thin and light stamped steel so the small application of clay doesn't affect compliance compatibility much.

[roscoeiii]

cosmetically, I wonder if you could put some sort of plate on top of the plasticine on the top of the TT to give it a better look without affecting the sound...

[neobop]

Yikes, that really does look bad. Is that top plate aluminum or plastic?  With all that clay stuffed inside, I wouldn't have thought it would make such a difference.
Is that clay available in black or silver?  You could use artists tools to sculpt it.  You can even paint over most clay, but it can get messed up easily over non-hardening clay. I think maybe Roscoeiii has a good idea there, you could cut out a thin piece of plastic, acrylic or whatever and just stick it on.

I'm one to talk.  My KD-500 was abused as a child.  When I got her a corner was smashed and the dust cover was broken, but she spun like a champ after I cleaned her pots.  I fixed the corners and some of the back with Bondo, auto body filler, but that stuff is pink.  LOL she looked like she was ready to have a food processor mounted on the spindle.  I was never partial to that white speckled kitchen counter look anyway, so I spray painted her black.  She looked pretty good, but some dust landed on the paint when it was wet and I tried to do touch ups with enamel.  I really should do it over, but it's just another to-do project. Get in line.












Actually, it looks better in the photos, you can't see all the imperfections.  That's an Alphason 100S and a Sony XL-MC2.
neo

[TheChairGuy]

cosmetically, I wonder if you could put some sort of plate on top of the plasticine on the top of the TT to give it a better look without affecting the sound...

I moved on to 9" and longer arms from there....so the $100 JVC became an experiment.  It works real well still - hidden behind built in where most of the video system lays.

The longer arms track better (I hear it on the many piano pieces I have) and are less fussy to dial in overhang perfectly (tho as fussy with azimuth, tracking force, and compliance issues).

I'd like to try a 12" one day to see if that's better still.  What I've read is that 10.5" is about the sweet spot in arms; tight bass, fine tracking.

[Maritan]

The JVC is alive and well. I finally got the AT100E on there and adjusted everything. Sounds great and none of that noise I heard earlier with the MA2002e.

Works well so far. I didn't get around to applying Deoxit to the UP/ DOWN switch, but I did open up the back just to take a look inside. Wow.  After seeing that "mess", I'm really in love with the 770D's simplicity. Look at the F6's innards:



Dang. The UP/ DOWN switch connects to the solid plastic piece at the very left of the metal plate at the top of the picture. Yu can see the long rod going from this piece. I just need to get whatever is under that plastic piece freed up a little.

At this point, I'm thinking I will compare the sound of the two TTs as they are (stock). Pick the one that sounds better and start improving (clay-ing the insides) that one first.

[Maritan]

The JVC sounded pretty good last night. None of that noise I heard before. Just looking at the MA2002e with my naked eye, I could see a LOT of dust on it. I'm going to look at it under a microscope and check out the stylus to see if this thing is even usable (probably not).

In the meantime, I'm going to keep listening to the JVC for the week with all (5) of my records, switch the cart to the 770D and listen for a week and see if I have a preference.

Donations for my non-existent vinyl collection are now accepted. 

[JackD]

Maritan

If I remember correctly, you said the lift mechanism works when you press the start button or it gets to the end of the side.  If that is the case the part you had exposed in your photo should not be the problem.  The problem should be on the top side of that plate.  Either with something not making contact or a plastic bit connected to the switch come loose.   As much as I have avoided it so far, I am going to have to take that metal plate with all the mechanisms loose to put on the new tonearm rest as it is almost dead in the center underneath.

Jack

[JackD]

Also if you are not already aware you can clean that stylus by gently dipping it in a piece of Original Mr. Clean Majic Eraser.  Make sure it is the original kind with no additives.  That might give you a better look with the microscope if it is already clean.  One $2 box will last you a lifetime.

[pumpkinman]

Donations for my non-existent vinyl collection are now accepted. 

What kind of music moves you ??

[pumpkinman]

Also if you are not already aware you can clean that stylus by gently dipping it in a piece of Original Mr. Clean Majic Eraser.  Make sure it is the original kind with no additives.  That might give you a better look with the microscope if it is already clean.  One $2 box will last you a lifetime.

I use Majic Eraser I cut a small piece and put it in a small pill box to keep it clean between uses

[Maritan]

JackD: The auto up/ down does work. However, the switch/ lever that you flip between up and down doesn't work the mechanism like it should. When I had the bottom opened up, and I "helped" that plastic piece along, everything worked as expected. But, I'll keep an eye out for what you're saying might be the problem. And, I'm sorry that you have to take all that apart. I would dread that too if I were you.

Pumpkinman: I'm getting into (and really enjoying) John Coltrane (A Love Supreme, My Favorite Things) and Miles Davis (Kind of Blue). Beautiful music all of them. I also have and enjoy Rubber Soul and Sgt. Pepper's by Beatles (original pressings I believe). These are the 5 records I have.

I also listen to Pink Floyd, Led Zep and a lot of other classic rock. Finally, my current staple is Progressive rock - Porcupine Tree, Steven Wilson, Riverside and other similar bands. I have CDs for the bands named here, and I absolutely love listening to them.

ETA: Thanks for the tip regarding the Magic Eraser. I assume I can use the eraser when I want to clean the stylus on the new AT100E cart I have too?

[JackD]

I figure if I am careful and move slowly I won't mess anything up and that broken clip just bugs me since I have the replacement on hand.  Will go ahead and stuff it while it is open.
Unfortunately the stuff you listed is expensive and some of it from the "stoner era" is hard to find in good shape.  Luckily I still have my original copies and most of them are in pretty good shape.  Would hate to hunt them down again.   As to the Beatles, I have eleven of the new reissues and I find them quite good, plus unlike some I never got a bad one.  Must have been lucky.   The newer stuff like Porcupine Tree I have found to be very expensive on vinyl and PT is hard to find too.

Yes you can use the ME on new stylus too.  Just be careful to go straight down and up.