[Bob in St. Louis]

It's been a few years, but I bought a 25' HDMI cable as big around as my thumb from Oppo for less than $30.

[bpape]

A couple of other notes:

1.  Always leave a pull string in all conduit.

2.  When doing your 90's, make them as large a radius as possible to facilitate easier pulling.

Bryan

[Big Red Machine]

It's a relief to pull wires through a 90 that is nothing more than 2 45's mated closely.  That really makes a big difference to any wire that does not like a sharp 90 turn, especially if it has a large connector on the end. 

[mcgsxr]

I spent a little more time visualizing my bulkhead this AM, and I think I can minimize the "in conduit" 90's (or more accurately two close 45's - good call on that) to one per run.

If I "stay behind the dividing wall" between finished and utility, I can make one turn with no elbow (and very easy access) and then make the long 25 foot run straight back to the display.  Similar runs to PJ location, and proposed 2nd display.

The main issue with my bulkhead is the huge steel beam running the entire length of the basement.  It basically means I need to decide which side of that beam to be on, prior to the long run through the bulkhead.

It may increase the overall length of my main HDMI run though, I will test that tonight with my 50 foot CAT5e cable I have been using to measure distances.

[randytsuch]

Two 45's is a very good suggestion, that will make it much easier to pull something through.

For HDMI distance, Blue Jeans explains it well
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/how-long-can-hdmi-run.htm

For the remotes,
An 890 is an 880 with Zwave and RF added.

The Monster AVL300 is basically a repackaged 890, with a different (and incompatible) rf extender.
BTW, the Monster extender is a little nicer because it's easier to disconnect when you want to reprogram the remote.  The Harmony extender has the power cable directly attached, monster added a connector.  For some reason, whenever you reprogram the remote, you also HAVE to reprogram the extender, even if you changes shouldn't affect the extender.

The AVL300 button layout is a little different, and after some adjusting, I like it better.

I now have a very used 890 and rf extender collecting dust, pm me if you want it for the cost of shipping. 
I was trying to clean up this weekend, and was thinking about trashing them.

Randy

[mcgsxr]

Happy to report that using my 50 foot Cat5 as my measuring stick, I can make the route from media closet to proposed display.

My box of various cable (round 1 of course, as I learned so much from this thread I need to make a 2nd order!) arrived today, so I can take some time this weekend playing around with the wires I intend to hard wire, and then get the conduit in place for the future. 

I have resigned to use boring old black ABS pipe, since it is readily available and the cheapest choice, and it meets code.

[medium jim]

Cat 5

Jim

[mcgsxr]

I am using Cat6.  I have a 50 foot Cat5 that has been convenient as a measure for my run from media closet to display.

Agree that network cable is critical.  I am sorting out a Gigabit switch for the closet too.

[mcgsxr]

I wanted to come back to this thread, as I learned so much with all the advice, and give a report a year later.

I plumbed a couple of long Ethernet cables to 2 places during the basement finishing, both on the main floor.  One remains unused, it is in the hallway on the main floor.

The other I put into play yesterday.  My new modem/router was installed last week, and it is good but did not provide great coverage to all floors, with it located in the media closet in the basement.  I was able to use a 75 foot Cat6e I installed to add a wireless access point on the main floor.  I configured it to broadcast the same SSID using the same security as my main router, so now I have 100% coverage to the whole home, and the various devices can roam between the router that serves them best as they travel around the home.

My 8 port Gigabit switch has 2 unused ports, hardwiring all the gear in the basement was a very good idea.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, the basement advice has served me well indeed!

[Bob in St. Louis]

"Future-proofing" = You did it correctly. 

[jea48]

Only thing I could add is to use a piece of insulated # 14 or #12 THHN stranded wire for the future pull line. Especially when pulling through/around bends. String or nylon pull lines can cut through the outer jackets of existing cables in the raceway like a knife.
Jim   

[thunderbrick]

I ran some conduit in the floor up into the walls.  When what's in the conduit is obsolete I can yank out what's there and easily pull new.  Redundancy uber alles!