[Carlman]

I'm putting an amp (back) together and am buying new binding posts.

However, I can't get over the reality that I'm soldering a wire to a solid chunk of gold-plated copper or brass which is then connected to rhodium-coated spades which are soldered to copper wires.

I also don't want to spend a million bucks on a pair of posts.

I got to thinking, why not cut a hole in the middle binding post, pull the amps' ouptut wire through, then wrap the copper strands around the post a few times and then solder it nice and flat.  That way, I'm bypassing the binding post since I'll have a copper to spade connection when I tighten the binding post.

Is this just a lot of work for nothing?  Anyone done it with good or bad results?

-C

[JoshK]

I have heard people doing this sort of thing with their speakers to good results.  I thought about trying it out.   Seems you would cut down, potentially, some stray capacitance as well.  Don't know for sure.

[Dan Banquer]

You don't want to spend a million bucks on binding posts? What kind of audiophile are you?   You're starting to sound like Nathan!  
I can make some recommendations, but I warn you that they will NOT be "audiophile approved".
                d.b.

[JoshK]

I was thinking you could also pull the output wires through and terminated them with an O (or eyelet/ whatever you call it) spade of good conductive material.  Slide this O over the post.

[Carlman]

The O-ring was my first thought but then that adds a layer of metal between the spade and the wire.  Plus, someone like d.b. might come along and suggest some hyper-expensive audio-grade washer as a must-have!  

What I'd *really* like to do is form an O by smelting the copper of the wire into that shape.  However, I don't know how to do that or if it would be a good thing.

Dan, suggest away...  this is the lab, ya know.?.. audiophile snobbery is generally left at the door in this area.

[Dan Banquer]

Well now that we are leaving audio snobbery at the door, here's what I would do. Take the output leads coming from the power amp board and crimp on a ring lug that's big enough to fit on the binding posts, then tighten down the nut that will hold the ring lug in place. Get rid of the Rhodium Spade lugs, becuse if you look up the conductivity of Rhodium vs. copper you should see that copper is better, if you're going for gold plate, that's O.K. too. Save the 24K gold for your significant other.
It doesn't have snob appeal, but for high level signals coming through a power amp this will work quite well.
                d.b.
BTW: I used some rhodium connectors for a while as an experiment. I got corrosion on the connector it was plugged into. Probably the old disimilar metal routine. Knowing that, I'm sure someone will manage to tell me that the corrosion widens the soundstage or gives a "warmer" sound.

[StevenACNJ]

Those Cardas copper binding posts are a bitch to solder. The copper is so thick that it takes forever to heat up and get the solder to flow.

I have thought about directly soldering my speaker cables directly to my amps out put wires, but then if you want to move something or have a problem with your amp you have to disconnect at speaker end and just seems like a pain in the ass.

I am currently thinking about eliminating the digital out rca jacks on my dvd & cdp and just soldering that end of my digital cables directly to the internal digital out wires.

It seems to me that anytime we can eliminate these types of connections sound quality should improve.

[Dan Banquer]

Carlman: you've got the Cardas binding posts? Forget the soldering iron and get a welding torch.   Don't forget to wear the eye shields.
                      d.b.

[randytsuch]

Carlman,
I do pretty much exactly what you are describing.  In my current amp, I drilled a few holes in the back plate, ran the wires through, stripped them to be about an inch long, and then use the binding post as a wire clamp, to clamp this wire to the speaker wire spades I use.  It would be easier if I had spades on both sides, can be a hassle to get the wire and spade clamped down with the binding post.

AFAIK, idea came from Ric Schultz of EVS, that's the first place I saw it.  Think it is on his tweaks page (at tweakaudio.com).

Randy

[Carlman]

I have no binding posts yet.  But, I can get fairly cheap ones if I make a better connection using this method.  

Dan, I'm not sure where you're talking about putting the ring terminal.  What nut do I tighten?  the one that compresses everything together?  Why would that be any better than raw wire with a few drops of solder to hold it down around the base of the post?  What about a copper ring terminal?  Does it exist?  Well, maybe something here would work:
http://www.electerm.com/ilsco.html
I DO have Cardas unplated binding posts on my old amp which I don't like because I have to clean them too often... and you're so right about having to solder them... I haven't figured out how to not melt the insulation when making the connection to the post.

[Dan Banquer]

Carl: Most "conventional" binding posts have a nut to hold them in place and another nut to hold the ring lug. From a technical and theoretical standpoint you should not have any audible difference between soldering the wire to the binding post and using a ring lug. However; if it makes you happy.......... I've been here before Carl, I use a ring lug.
                  d.b.

[Russtafarian]

Why not consider Neutric Speakon connectors.  They're twist-lock secure, non-shorting and will pass a ton of current.  This is the standard connector used on pro audio speakers.  They are also great for power cords.  Easier to use and way more secure than IEC plugs and jacks.

[lonewolfny42]

Hey Carl, What amp are you putting back together ??

[Tonto Yoder]

Carlman,
I do pretty much exactly what you are describing. ....

AFAIK, idea came from Ric Schultz of EVS, that's the first place I saw it.  Think it is on his tweaks page (at tweakaudio.com).

Randy

As I remember, Ric advocated using the center HOLE in binding posts to get a wire-to-wire connection. That hole's only so big, so the size of speaker wire might be limited.

[Carlman]

Hey Carl, What amp are you putting back together ??

This would be the AKSA N+...

I need a case as well... my supplier (par-metal) fell through.

[mgalusha]

I need a case as well... my supplier (par-metal) fell through.

Carl,

You might want to check out these folks. I recently purchased a chassis from them and am quite happy with it.

http://www.lansing-enclosures.com/

mike

[randytsuch]

As I remember, Ric advocated using the center HOLE in binding posts to get a wire-to-wire connection. That hole's only so big, so the size of speaker wire might be limited.

From the tweakaudio.com site, in the electronics tweaking section:

1. Get rid of those stupid distorted binding posts. All binding posts, including the best ones (Cardas and MusicPosts) distort the sound. I'm sure you would not want to listen to a heavy gauge thick speaker wire made out of solid brass or ordinary copper. It would sound real bad. That is how binding posts sound, even though they are only an inch or so long. The easiest way to eliminate the binding post sound is to bring the wire from inside the amp to the outside and put the bare end of the wire into the hole on the outside of binding post. You put your spade or better yet, bare wire from your speaker cable against this wire and Hosanna, a wire to wire clamp. Hence way better sound! This can be done at the speaker end as well. Some manufacturers of speakers even put tip jacks on their speakers so you can only use the even more distorted banana plugs. Stay away from all adapters and extra connections too.

Doesn't mention the center hole.  I have done this, and it did sound better to me after I was done.  YMMV.

Randy

[randytsuch]

I need a case as well... my supplier (par-metal) fell through.

Carl,

You might want to check out these folks. I recently purchased a chassis from them and am quite happy with it.

http://www.lansing-enclosures.com/

mike

Hi Mike,
Which type of case did you use, and how much was it?

Randy

[mgalusha]

Hi Mike,
Which type of case did you use, and how much was it?

Randy

Randy,

I purchased one of the "Graybox" series, style B, captive nuts, vented sides and black anodized. Part number B2F12-V02B. They shipped it the next day via UPS ground and it arrived in perfect condition. The double boxed everything and since it comes disassembled there was little that UPS could do  to it. They offer a 10% discount for first time orders. They were very helpful on the phone. I havn't completed the project yet, so I don't have any picutres. I did laminate a sheet of mirror polished copper to the top chassis plate. I think it's going to look very nice when complete. I purchased the copper from McMaster-Carr.



Sorry for threadjacking, now back to our show.

mike

[Dan Banquer]

I'll second the Lansing cases. I've used them for years, the SCPA 1 uses a Lansing case, and I can't say enough good things about them. They are an excellent choice.
                      d.b.