Standalone tonearm mount

THROWBACK · « **on:** 15 Oct 2012, 11:15 pm »

I think it would be neat to have a standalone tonearm mount for trying different arms/cartridges without disturbing my normal setup (which takes hours to dial in right). I could load it with a cartridge and move it around on my turntable platform to get it into the correct position.

Has anyone built one DIY, or does anyone know of a commercial design worth looking into? I would be looking for a normal Rega or SME mounting.

Thanks

roscoeiii · « **Reply #1 on:** 15 Oct 2012, 11:42 pm »

Not exactly standalone, but the Townshend Rock has a naked design which just necessitates the creation of a metal disk with the holes cut in the appropriate place. Easier than a traditional armboard.

orthobiz · « **Reply #2 on:** 16 Oct 2012, 01:19 am »

Doesn't Tuan (Sonny) have some kinda standalone tonearm setup?

Paul

Ericus Rex · « **Reply #3 on:** 16 Oct 2012, 12:13 pm »

Check out this link to my table. I've since bought a second armpod (this table can support 4 arms) from Musical Life. You could certainly have a machinist in your area make one but it would have to be custom made specifically for your turntable. Be sure to have several blank armboards made at the same time. The platter height will obviously affect the height of the tower so you won't be able to move it to another table unless the height is exactly the same (is your platter thick enough anyway? I don't think you could do this unless your platter is at least 2 inches thick).

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=93000.msg924849#msg924849

simoon · « **Reply #4 on:** 16 Oct 2012, 11:27 pm »

I saw this on eBay recently. Actually looks pretty good. Adjustable VTA.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTA-Precision-adjustable-arm-board-/170827896684?pt=US_Record_Player_Turntable_Parts&hash=item27c622d76c

Seems like you could get a piece of aluminum (or material of your choice) for the base, drill and tap a hole to mount this, and have a nice external arm mount. Probably be cheaper than having one machined from scratch.

soulforged · « **Reply #5 on:** 26 Jul 2018, 05:27 pm »

Reviving this thread.

I have been toying with the idea of one for my TD124 so that I can have 9'' on the table and have a 12'' arm on the side. Did anybody try out a standalone tonearm mount/tower/plinth? Looking for plans, ideas...mounts

simoon · « **Reply #6 on:** 31 Jul 2018, 09:37 pm »

I own one of this guys 12" arms. Extremely good.

He makes this arm mount/pod.

http://temaadaudio.biz/accessories.php

It is $125.00. Might be Australian dollars.

S Clark · « **Reply #7 on:** 31 Jul 2018, 10:31 pm »

I built a box, filled it with lead wheel weights, locked them in place with silicon caulk, and drilled a hole for the tonearm. Works well.

sunnydaze · « **Reply #8 on:** 2 Aug 2018, 02:22 am »

Not fancy or elegant, certainly not pretty, but does the job very well. Slapped together with no regard for isolation or resonance control -- just made it sturdy and solid. When I tap on anything (plinth, record, arm board / mount, shelf, rack, etc) with the needle on groove / platter not spinning almost no "thunk" whatsoever comes out of speakers. When I do the same using the table's arm mounting system, a much louder "thunk" emerges. So vibration control of my DIY mount is VG.

Fairly simple and easy......
I bought a cheap bamboo cutting board, cut some blocks, stacked them, and clamped the top platform tightly onto a butcher block that slightly overhangs edge of top shelf. I also cut the round top mounting plate. Platform height is roughly adjusted by varying the number of blocks. Plate height is fine tuned with various length aluminum spacers.

I have several arms so I made a plate for each. I leave the plates attached to the arms for simple and quick swaps. I made the plates same dimension as the stock acrylic one that came with the table (Scheu / Eurolab Premier Mk2). In this way I can easily also use the arm in the traditional back right corner, if desired.

The advantage of this method is that the arm position is really locked in. So long as the table is heavy and solid and doesn't move easily, then the mount distance is never lost. Same can't be said for stand alone pods as they can be inadvertently moved.

Also, when lifting entire butcher block to relocate the table the position of this mount relative to table is less likely to shift, again maintaining mount distance.

The visual could be improved by attaching the mount (bolt or glue?) onto the butcher block, but I wanted to maintain flexibility in arm location.

Only simple hand tools were used: circular saw, jigsaw, drill, belt sander.

WireNut · « **Reply #9 on:** 2 Aug 2018, 03:17 am »

I've been drooling over the Audiomods series 5/Classis-2 tonearms for my JVC QL-7 rebuild.

It's available completely built or as a DIY kit and with different plating options.
To me, it looks great and the price seems very good but I'm not a tonearm guru.
In fact, this would be my first after market arm if I decide to buy it. HELP.

It looks like the same arm as mentioned earlier in the AC thread below, except that arm has the optional micrometer for VTA adjustment.
https://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=93000.msg924849#msg924849

Here's the link(s) for Audiomods, either completely built or in kit form.
http://www.audiomods.co.uk/completearms.html
http://www.audiomods.co.uk/armkits.html

The only thing I'm wondering about is if the Audiomod arms are adjustable azimuth. VTA, yes.

Maybe Ericus Rex will chime in and give us his opinion of the Audiomod arm.

The picture below shows what I do to adjust VTA on my arm. I use my dial indicator instead of a micrometer. Works great for me.
Since I use my indicator, I would get the Audiomods arm with optional ceramic bearings and void the micrometer expense.

WireNut · « **Reply #10 on:** 2 Aug 2018, 03:27 am »

Looks like Sunnydaze has the right idea

WireNut · « **Reply #11 on:** 2 Aug 2018, 04:40 am »

Sunnydaze has done something I'd like to do.
I don't want to sidetrack this thread but it came along just as I'm rebuilding my table.

You here folks talk about they're plinth's adding noise/vibration/ext, adding clay or whatever to dampen, so why use a plinth if you don't have to?

Below is my JVC DD motor housing and circuit board. I've been thinking about building a heavy duty massive new plinth out of exotic wood, or a thick
piece of granite plate machined on a Waterjet for the motor housing and NEW tonearm holes but why go thru all that trouble.

Why not skip the noisy wood plinth and just set the JVC motor and circuit board housing on 3 solid standoff's mounted to something like a butcher block
which has isolation blocks/pads underneath?

Add the tonearm similar to what Sunnydaze has done.

Here's a quick drawing of what I'm talking about and a couple examples. Nothing is set in stone.

WC · « **Reply #12 on:** 2 Aug 2018, 01:49 pm »

You can check with Jeff at Audiomods. He answers questions via email. I got a series V LM arm last summer, but I haven't finished installing it yet. The website may not be completely up to date. The Series V LM arm is replacing the classic arm. He is no longer offering the kits.

sunnydaze · « **Reply #13 on:** 2 Aug 2018, 02:22 pm »

Don't hesitate on the AudioMods arm. My local buddy got one recently and it is great!

Installed it on his Townshend Rock Mk3 and it crushes his previous Michell TecnoArm. I have the same table and to my ear the AM arm sounds at least as good as some nice arms I've used on my Rock: Linn Ittok, Kuzma Stogi Reference, OL Encounter Mk3c.

For the price it can't be beat. Were I in the market for a great performing / not crazy $$ arm, it would be at the top of my list.

(Jelco is another great value performer. 750E mounted on my Scheu / Eurolab table sounds great with both Denon 103R and Dynavector xx2-Mk2 carts)

WireNut · « **Reply #14 on:** 3 Aug 2018, 01:17 pm »

Quote from: WC on 2 Aug 2018, 01:49 pm

He is no longer offering the kits.

WireNut · « **Reply #15 on:** 3 Aug 2018, 01:36 pm »

Quote from: S Clark on 31 Jul 2018, 10:31 pm

I built a box, filled it with lead wheel weights, locked them in place with silicon caulk, and drilled a hole for the tonearm. Works well.

sunnydaze · « **Reply #16 on:** 3 Aug 2018, 02:10 pm »

Quote from: WireNut on 3 Aug 2018, 01:17 pm

My buddy bought the factory assembled Classic. Cost him about USD 575 shipped. This was several months ago, the $ price will vary with exchange rates.

Why bother with the kit when assembled by the designer / builder himself is so reasonable?

WireNut · « **Reply #17 on:** 3 Aug 2018, 04:10 pm »

Right. Last I heard assembled was around $750 usd. That would be without the micrometer I believe.

sunnydaze · « **Reply #18 on:** 3 Aug 2018, 06:12 pm »

I strongly recommend you also look at Jelco, especially if you intend to use a heavier and stiffer MC cart.

The more expensive 10" version (750E) can be bought brand new for below $550. The 9 incher (750D) will be even cheaper.

I bought my 750E used for about $325. Can't be touched by anything for that price, and probably even the new price.

Since the headshell is detachable, azimuth is adjustable. AudioMods has no azimuth adjustment.

WireNut · « **Reply #19 on:** 3 Aug 2018, 07:44 pm »

Quote from: S Clark on 31 Jul 2018, 10:31 pm

I built a box, filled it with lead wheel weights, locked them in place with silicon caulk, and drilled a hole for the tonearm. Works well.

I've been thinking about lead shot (fishing weights) bonded with West Systems Epoxy.

What do you mean by lead wheel weights?