[medium jim]

Any volunteers to educate us about Electronic Subwoofer Crossover's?

Thanks,
Jim

[Æ]

Any volunteers to educate us about Electronic Subwoofer Crossover's?

Thanks,
Jim

Some of those plate amps use a simple line level crossover, passive (not active) in the signal path.

[etcarroll]

I've been exploring this, has anyone tried a diy, active, sub xover?

[jeffreybehr]

I've been exploring this, has anyone tried a diy, active, sub xover?

I'd MUCH rather build subwoofers and improve pre- and poweramps and use commercial x-overs than build one.   

An early, famous one is the Dahlquist DQ-LP1, an active-lo-pass, passive-hi-pass filter.  I believe it's from the '60s and retailed for c. $250, and they're rare and good enough to sell for at least that now.  The passive hi-pass section is first-order while the active lo-pass is 3rd order.  Here's my beaten-about unit.


It's a dual-mono device with each channel set separately.

One 'problem' is that the RCAs are board-mount and really cheap stuff; I've replaced mine with hard-wired input cables and aftermarket output jacks.  Another problem with old, well-used copies is that the solder posts inside that are used to change the HP-filter points are susceptible to working loose and/or eventually frying the board.

The cap posts are just inside each puddle of hotglue strainrelief.

I have blurbs describing the circuitry, recommended improvements, etc., from 'Audio Basics' and Frank VanAlstine; if you'll e-mail me at jeffreybehr(at)cox(dot)net I'll e-mail them to you.

[TRADERXFAN]

Depends on your needs and how many subs. Pretty standard has been the DCX2496, but also starting to see the MINIdsp option come up in popularity.

The DCX can be set from the screen display buttons, takes a bit to get used to, but once you "get" it, its not bad. Or there is computer interface but I haven't tried it. The DCX has worked great for me. I just recommend plugging the sub amp in the same receptacle/power strip as the rest. I had a hum once, but doing this have had no problems.

The minidsp is going to be less expensive and not sure how hard it is to use or implement.

[JohnR]

I wrote a tutorial on using the miniDSP with subs:

http://www.hifizine.com/2010/09/subwoofer-equalization-and-integration-with-the-minidsp-2x4/

(Sorry to just be posting links...)

You just need to make sure that the levels are compatible.

Paul Spencer prefers the Behringer because of the longer delay.

[SteveRB]

I am looking for a good analog sub crossover that extend the high pass up to 300hz.

any recommendations?

The Dahlquist looks interesting

[jeffreybehr]

I am looking for a good analog sub crossover that extend the high pass up to 300hz.

The Dahlquist looks interesting

Indeed.  BTW I've corrected my e-mail address in my initial note.

[mboxler]

http://www.marchandelec.com/xovers.html

DIY or have Phil build one.

Mike

[John Casler]

I have had exceptional performance with the NHT X2

Not sure if they still make them, but they are quite good if you can find them.

[BobRex]

I'd MUCH rather build subwoofers and improve pre- and poweramps and use commercial x-overs than build one.   

An early, famous one is the Dahlquist DQ-LP1, an active-lo-pass, passive-hi-pass filter.  I believe it's from the '60s and retailed for c. $250, and they're rare and good enough to sell for at least that now.  The passive hi-pass section is first-order while the active lo-pass is 3rd order. 

The LP-1 was available from about 1978 through most of the 80s.  At the time, I was able to compare it to a Bryston xover and the Dahlquist was a more transparent unit. Definitely one of the best available, possibly still the case. 

[thunderbrick]

I have the LP-1 and love it.  The Audio Source Richter Scale is supposed to be good.  It brings the same ~$250 on ebay that the LP-1 does.  I'll sell my Richter Scale for less to AC members.   

[poseidonsvoice]

Depends on your needs and how many subs. Pretty standard has been the DCX2496, but also starting to see the MINIdsp option come up in popularity.

The DCX can be set from the screen display buttons, takes a bit to get used to, but once you "get" it, its not bad. Or there is computer interface but I haven't tried it. The DCX has worked great for me. I just recommend plugging the sub amp in the same receptacle/power strip as the rest. I had a hum once, but doing this have had no problems.

The minidsp is going to be less expensive and not sure how hard it is to use or implement.

+1. The DCX 2496 as a stock unit doesn't need any upgrading, downloading, etc...if all you want to do is use it as a subwoofer crossover. Up to 6 different subs can be implemented with the DCX. The DCX I purchased used/refurbished for ~ $250. There is no reason to buy brand new imho (unless you are hell bent on a warranty). It is also fully balanced. The only problem with the DCX is if you need to do EQ below 20 Hz. Most people don't need that in all honesty so it rarely comes up as a problem. But it has everything else: polarity, phase, delay, EQ, crossover networks from 6dB to 48dB/octave, etc...I am very happy with mine. I have the minidsp as well, which is different and depending on what you are doing...more cumbersome to use. YMMV.

Anand.

[doug s.]

http://www.marchandelec.com/xovers.html

DIY or have Phil build one.

Mike

+1 on the marchand x-overs.  killer analog active x-overs for the price.  as good or better than the bryston x-over for far less coin.  unless you opt for one of their tubed x-overs...

doug s.

[planet10]

+1. The DCX 2496 as a stock unit doesn't need any upgrading, downloading, etc...if all you want to do is use it as a subwoofer crossover.

Maybe used only as a low-pass. Neither the one i borrowed or the one i have were listenable stock asa 2-way XO.

dave

[Big Red Machine]

I moved from a Behringer to a QSC DSP30 years ago when I got the Seaton Submersive per Mark's recommendation.  It's interface is pretty cool as you connect it to the computer and see the plot right there and then you can push and pull as needed to smooth things out.  It has more than 7 presets you can program if you are game to bring up various responses if you wish (who would?).
http://www.qscaudio.com/products/dsp/dsp30/dsp30.htm


In the 80's a I used the Richter scale and really liked it.  Used it for almost 15 years.  Very reliable and simple to use.

[toddbagwell]

I use a dbx 234 xlr crossover for my subs, feeding them the low output (below 40 hz)

The mains are active with another dbx splitting the signal into two for each speaker.

Todd

[TomS]

I moved from a Behringer to a QSC DSP30 years ago when I got the Seaton Submersive per Mark's recommendation.  It's interface is pretty cool as you connect it to the computer and see the plot right there and then you can push and pull as needed to smooth things out.  It has more than 7 presets you can program if you are game to bring up various responses if you wish (who would?).
http://www.qscaudio.com/products/dsp/dsp30/dsp30.htm


In the 80's a I used the Richter scale and really liked it.  Used it for almost 15 years.  Very reliable and simple to use.

The QSC is a really nice option as long as you only need 2 outputs. The DCX has 6, which are independently assignable, so is a bit more flexible in that regard for multiple sub tuning.

[poseidonsvoice]

Maybe used only as a low-pass. Neither the one i borrowed or the one i have were listenable stock asa 2-way XO.

dave

Yes, I only use it as a low pass as my dac/preamp has dual outputs. I would never use it for higher frequencies as a stock unit.

Anand.

[zapper7]

I am currently using the DBX Driverack PA speaker control system with excellent results. It replaced the Behringer 2496 with great results. In fact, just last weekend we took the non-sub (50hz+) frequencies and ran then through the unit. I am running the Bel Canto DAC 3 directly to the high frequency amps. On Adele's 21 we heard better piano placement, more even with the vocals as opposed to behind them, like she was playing and singing together.

Great piece for this application.