0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. Read 37104 times.
Hi James Shipping cost of 6 enclosures can be calculated online. Please note that there will be $10 (or $12, $15, depend on your location) one time flate rate shipping cost when check out. You need to pay $35 shipping cost for 1 pcs, but only $60 for 2pcs. That means the more you order the lower the average price. We accept custom cutout for orders more than 10pc. Please send me the CAD file of the cutouts. Cost won't be very high here, or even free if the qty is big enough. RegardsMike
This is not profit making suggestion, rather looking for good price for six chassis. I also consider bamboo enclosure for esthetics but such requires foil lining for shielding (I have no RFI issues but you might). http://www.siliconray.com/re2207-215x70x228-aluminum-enclosure.htmlMike at this company in China replies quickly to my emails. I need six chassis already, 3 for me, 3 for a friend. IIRC I found him at DIYaudio. If I add four or more chassis to bring total order up to 10, and if someone makes CAD file, we can apparently get them delivered here to me in N. Utah for a good price. Hoping member CoZ takes no offense, just considering other possibilities.Mike emailed me: Tossing it out for reader's consideration. Absolutely positively you'd have to prepay adding 3% for Paypal because I'm not wanting to hassle with checks, sorry (shocked to find European vendors add 4%). I will re-ship enclosures immediately after receipt, charging my exact wholesale shipping cost with Endicia 3rd party USPS. You must choose to add for insurance or decline insurance, your call. No insurance is all your risk. We've had 100% success shipping about 600 primeVibe kits via USPS to USA and about fifty foreign countries. Couple times foreign customs delays, completely customs fault only. For bi-wire I prefer four binding posts where ever they best fit. Buyers preferring single pair will have to empty holes, for which I presume you could find plugs. Beyond that, the generally accepted layout seems fine:One XLR, no RCA IEC with rocker switch, no fuse (SMPS already fused)Power light on faceplate
Hoping member CoZ takes no offense, just considering other possibilities.
I can draw a CAD file if you have all the dimension ready.
I was going to order the long version of this chassis, so that I could put a little space between the amp and power supply modules. But hey, it they will do the drilling I'm willing to live with the smaller case. I would need 2 cases total.
Im in for a pair. Do you think we should get the longer cases for adequate spacing of module and power supply?I'd like to use cardas binding posts - wonder if that would be the same hole sizeI dont need biwire holes per case only one set eachXLR Yespower light not necessary
Re. Ncore, it seems to come up over and over again that Bruno built something unique and counter-intuitive to our audiophile sentiments. Of course we want to increase the space between the amp and it's PS. But in this case the minimum acceptable spacing seems far less than what we'd normally expect.
What is price range for suitable press for this job? I hate holes being off and needing enlargement to fit because they are .3mm off the correct center.Re. "conclusions": Hypex is my sole source for my own minimum build specifications. I tire of reading cautions concerning that. My only exception is based on personal preference and experience. In normal binding post use the music signal travels from the internal speaker wire to:A ring or spade, then from that toThe post, then Trough the post (whatever is the conductor material and its quality) to outside the chassis, from the post toAnother spade or banana toThe external speaker wire and on to the speakerEach/any disparate metal transfer affects sound quality IMO. In my own case I will drill my own extra hole, one next to each binding post. I will insert a rubber grommet in the this extra hole. The internal speaker wire exits the grommet hole. I tin the end of the wire and stick it in the post hole for bare wire. I stick the speaker wire tinned end in the post hole and torque the post knob. The signal passes only from one tinned wire end to the other. I estimate this approximates the quality of the $75/pr WBT posts. The only thing better is to solder them, which I'm not up to doing.