[James Romeyn]

This is not profit making suggestion, rather looking for good price for six chassis.  I also consider bamboo enclosure for esthetics but such requires foil lining for shielding (I have no RFI issues but you might). 

http://www.siliconray.com/re2207-215x70x228-aluminum-enclosure.html

Mike at this company in China replies quickly to my emails.  I need six chassis already, 3 for me, 3 for a friend.  IIRC I found him at DIYaudio.   

If I add four or more chassis to bring total order up to 10, and if someone makes CAD file, we can apparently get them delivered here to me in N. Utah for a good price.  Hoping member CoZ takes no offense, just considering other possibilities.

Mike emailed me:

Hi James
 
Shipping cost of 6 enclosures can be calculated online. Please note that there will be $10 (or $12, $15, depend on your location) one time flate rate shipping cost when check out. You need to pay $35 shipping cost for 1 pcs, but only $60 for 2pcs. That means the more you order the lower the average price.
 
We accept custom cutout for orders more than 10pc. Please send me the CAD file of the cutouts. Cost won't be very high here, or even free if the qty is big enough.
 
Regards
Mike

 

Tossing it out for reader's consideration.  Prepay with bank check or +3% for Paypal.  I will re-ship enclosures immediately after receipt, charging my exact wholesale shipping cost with Endicia 3rd party USPS to your home/business.  You must choose to add for insurance or decline insurance, your call.  No insurance is all your risk, but read on...   

Me shipping to you: For 1.5 years we have 100% success shipping primeVibe kits via USPS, about 60% to USA/40% international.  Maybe once or twice foreign customs delays otherwise, as I said, 100% perfect from USPS.   

Beyond that, the generally accepted layout seems fine:

One XLR, no RCA
IEC, no fuse, no switch (SMPS already fused...why add an unnecessary switch in the IEC?)
Seven base holes for amp/PS

[JDUBS]

This is not profit making suggestion, rather looking for good price for six chassis.  I also consider bamboo enclosure for esthetics but such requires foil lining for shielding (I have no RFI issues but you might). 

http://www.siliconray.com/re2207-215x70x228-aluminum-enclosure.html

Mike at this company in China replies quickly to my emails.  I need six chassis already, 3 for me, 3 for a friend.  IIRC I found him at DIYaudio.   

If I add four or more chassis to bring total order up to 10, and if someone makes CAD file, we can apparently get them delivered here to me in N. Utah for a good price.  Hoping member CoZ takes no offense, just considering other possibilities.

Mike emailed me: 

Tossing it out for reader's consideration.  Absolutely positively you'd have to prepay adding 3% for Paypal because I'm not wanting to hassle with checks, sorry (shocked to find European vendors add 4%).  I will re-ship enclosures immediately after receipt, charging my exact wholesale shipping cost with Endicia 3rd party USPS.  You must choose to add for insurance or decline insurance, your call.  No insurance is all your risk.   

We've had 100% success shipping about 600 primeVibe kits via USPS to USA and about fifty foreign countries.  Couple times foreign customs delays, completely customs fault only. 

For bi-wire I prefer four binding posts where ever they best fit.  Buyers preferring single pair will have to empty holes, for which I presume you could find plugs. 

Beyond that, the generally accepted layout seems fine:

One XLR, no RCA
IEC with rocker switch, no fuse (SMPS already fused)
Power light on faceplate

Nice!  In addition to the backplate drilling, can you get them to drill out the bottom for the SMPS and module?  If so, I'm in for two.

-Jim

[TrungT]

I can draw a CAD file if you have all the dimension ready.
 

[santacore]

I was going to order the long version of this chassis, so that I could put a little space between the amp and power supply modules. But hey, if they can do the drilling I'm willing to live with the smaller case. I would need 2 cases total.

[HT cOz]

  Hoping member CoZ takes no offense, just considering other possibilities.

No offense here, it's a free world and free market.  My day job is revolves around crude oil trading so I'm used to a pretty brutal marketplace.   

Thanks,
Robert

[James Romeyn]

I can draw a CAD file if you have all the dimension ready.
 

Thanks.

I was going to order the long version of this chassis, so that I could put a little space between the amp and power supply modules. But hey, it they will do the drilling I'm willing to live with the smaller case. I would need 2 cases total.

For comparison, CoZ's chassis: 70 x 228 x 250
Chassis link in OP:                  80 x 228 x 215

Both above have enough space for mono.  IIRC CoZ' slightly longer chassis fits one PS and two amps.     
   

[James Romeyn]

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[James Romeyn]

deleted

[mr_bill]

Im in for a pair.  Do you think we should get the longer cases for adequate spacing of module and power supply?
I'd like to use cardas binding posts - wonder if that would be the same hole size
I dont need biwire holes per case only one set each
XLR Yes
power light not necessary

[orientalexpress]

I am in for 2 also,2 hole for speaker binding post.


Lapsan

[James Romeyn]

Im in for a pair.  Do you think we should get the longer cases for adequate spacing of module and power supply?
I'd like to use cardas binding posts - wonder if that would be the same hole size
I dont need biwire holes per case only one set each
XLR Yes
power light not necessary

Longer cases changes nothing regarding placement of PS and amp. 

[mjosef]

That's one thing I don't like about these 'compact' Class D amp builds, cramming the power supply right up against the amp module...Bruno's "adequate" screams not optimal from an audiophile standpoint of wanting the best isolation between the ps (SMPS) and the amp.
I wonder why many manufactures often have the power supply in a separate enclosure...

[TomS]

Fyi, JTWRace's touring pair and my pair shown on the "show us your NCores" thread use these same cases and have the appropriate orientation and spacing. It is similar to Hypex's NC1200 demo pair shown on 6Moons so I suspect it is quite optimum.

You really have to consider the pre-made cable and the twist you use. I waited until I had the modules and cases in hand, twisted the cables, laid it out on the base and back panel, then drilled the holes. Just keep in mind the instruction about keeping inputs and outputs away from power and don't run anything underneath or over the top of the modules.

[jtwrace]

FWIW I sent Jan-Peter an email with a picture when I had everything laid out on the chassis as I was the first one and Jan-Peter said it was fine...

[James Romeyn]

I really appreciate all the input regarding this, especially from pre-existing Ncore pioneers/builders/owners!

[rklein]

I too, ordered the RE2207 enclosures with the IEC openings.  I just plan on doing my own drilling/cutouts as I am not sure yet on the connectors I will be utilizing. 

Regards,

Randy

[mjosef]

Re. Ncore, it seems to come up over and over again that Bruno built something unique and counter-intuitive to our audiophile sentiments.  Of course we want to increase the space between the amp and it's PS.  But in this case the minimum acceptable spacing seems far less than what we'd normally expect.

Until someone actually builds one with an outboard ps(or same chassis but increased spacing between ps and amp module) and compares it to a compact build...one should exercise caution with reaching a conclusion.
Whenever I get mines, I certainly will be exploring maximum spacing.

[James Romeyn]

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[Rclark]

A pair for me too please.

[JDUBS]

What is price range for suitable press for this job?  I hate holes being off and needing enlargement to fit because they are .3mm off the correct center.

Re. "conclusions": Hypex is my sole source for my own minimum build specifications.  I tire of reading cautions concerning that. 

My only exception is based on personal preference and experience.  In normal binding post use the music signal travels from the internal speaker wire to:

A ring or spade, then from that to
The post, then
Trough the post (whatever is the conductor material and its quality) to outside the chassis, from the post to
Another spade or banana to
The external speaker wire and on to the speaker

Each/any disparate metal transfer affects sound quality IMO. 

In my own case I will drill my own extra hole, one next to each binding post.  I will insert a rubber grommet in the this extra hole.  The internal speaker wire exits the grommet hole.  I tin the end of the wire and stick it in the post hole for bare wire.  I stick the speaker wire tinned end in the post hole and torque the post knob.  The signal passes only from one tinned wire end to the other.  I estimate this approximates the quality of the $75/pr WBT posts.  The only thing better is to solder them, which I'm not up to doing.         

I think Ric Schultz at EVS started this (binding post "bypass") and its my preference, too - if the manufacturer is cutting the holes...let's get them to do two more for our amps.

I wouldn't worry / care about folk not liking the enclosure dimensions.  They can figure out their own if they don't like these.

-Jim