[jparkhur]

Still getting to blacker..

[JLM]

As a very inexperienced wood butcher, I cringe at the whole finishing prospect. 

After all the effort to build (which I can fudge with wood putty/etc.) the finish has no place to hide.  And knowing when to stop adding coats of stain/varnish, let alone what product/methods to use, is a huge quandary to me. 

I know to do samples first, but sometimes it's hard.  Like my 1,000 s.f. deck.  Used HD's best solid color stain the spring after it was built and it was a disaster.  It took 11 gallons and three coats on the horizontal surfaces (way too much), was too thick to go through the hand sprayer HD recommended for that product, HD staff were no help, and it almost immediately started to peel.  Vertical surfaces look fine.  Now that it's time to redo, what do I do?  (All horizontal surfaces will show.)

[jparkhur]

If you can sand down and take off the top layer and then reapply a darker stain after a wood conditioning agent it may help.  It should not take that many gallons.  I have put on 9 coats liberally and am only through 1/4 gallon.  Wipe, let sit, reapply and wipe off is my method.  Thought about a high grade car paint?  Or high grade milk stain... not very opaque and still allows the grain through...  I would suggest going to a Sherman Williams or pro paint store and ask. Also, end case.. go to a furniture shop and ask them to re stain them for you.. i did my entire mission table from the amish for 500 dollars.... 8 feet long, 8 mission chairs with small slates... tough job, but worth it for the next 30 years.  They even put on a food grade clear coat that resists water and spills...   

[jparkhur]

blacker..  still will start clear this evening....

[JLM]

If you can sand down and take off the top layer and then reapply a darker stain after a wood conditioning agent it may help.  It should not take that many gallons.  I have put on 9 coats liberally and am only through 1/4 gallon.  Wipe, let sit, reapply and wipe off is my method.  Thought about a high grade car paint?  Or high grade milk stain... not very opaque and still allows the grain through...  I would suggest going to a Sherman Williams or pro paint store and ask. Also, end case.. go to a furniture shop and ask them to re stain them for you.. i did my entire mission table from the amish for 500 dollars.... 8 feet long, 8 mission chairs with small slates... tough job, but worth it for the next 30 years.  They even put on a food grade clear coat that resists water and spills...

Thanks, I was indeed planning on visiting Sherwin Williams.

[myaudioforsale]

Jon,

I'm looking forward to hearing these.  What's your eta on drivers getting loaded?

Michael

[jparkhur]

Here is what came out after 8 coats of glossy and 12 coats of stain. I'll put in the binding posts later today and wire them up. 

[JLM]

Fantastico   

[doorman]

Well done! Dave's Mar-Ken/Fonken cabs are a superior design IMHO. A fun build process also!
Great job.
don

[jparkhur]

Doorman,

Since these are the first of 3 to be made with the ff series of drivers, it will be good to compare the two side by side since these are better than the previous 127/126 drivers.  A good side by side with be welcomed across the board.

I really like all of the fonken series.. well put together.  Thanks Dave and crew... JP

[chrisby]

Doorman,

Since these are the first of 3 to be made with the ff series of drivers, it will be good to compare the two side by side since these are better than the previous 127/126 drivers.  A good side by side with be welcomed across the board.

I really like all of the fonken series.. well put together.  Thanks Dave and crew... JP

they are fun to listen to indeed - although after a few scores of pairs, the build process can be a bit less "exciting" 

[doorman]

I can testify that making the "holey brace(s)" is most definitley NOT EXCITING!!
don

[jparkhur]

Not sure why, stack both on top of each other and drill the thing out with a 2 inch, 4 inch and 3 inch hole saw bit. Put it on the router table and spin it around the holes to round over both sides.  is this not what you did?

[jparkhur]

Dave/Planet10  How much stuffing are you adding to this model?  ????   I have the fill, but not sure where to start...  lightly fill the entire box loose...

JP

[chrisby]

Not sure why, stack both on top of each other and drill the thing out with a 2 inch, 4 inch and 3 inch hole saw bit. Put it on the router table and spin it around the holes to round over both sides.  is this not what you did?

I guess we vary on our definitions of "exciting" 

[chrisby]

Dave/Planet10  How much stuffing are you adding to this model?  ????   I have the fill, but not sure where to start...  lightly fill the entire box loose...

JP

not much loose fill - line all walls with 1/2" or so felt - keep back from internal port openings

a lot easier to do before buttoning up the box

[planet10]

As Chris says. You can play with light stuffing, but as per the notes line all surfaces with 1/2" cotton or wool felt -- do not obscure vent entrance. Some less dense mat can be put on the centre side of the off-centre holey brace (poly batting or fiberglass insulation).

We suggest the 1/2" UltraTouch cotton felt (available from Bob -- i will supply if ordered with drivers or other bits)

Best done before the last panel is attached. If that is not the case you may have to bribe a kid with small hands.

dave

[jparkhur]

Here is the final product, and very happy with them.  I will put them next to the Frugal Horns and see what they sound like. Please remember that the Frugals are in a extended natural back loaded horn with the shape of the ceiling and wall.  See previous posts.  Will comment later in the week. 

[jparkhur]

Last one...