Electra tube connector installation instructions.

Danny Richie · « **on:** 27 Apr 2011, 09:47 pm »

I have been asked to post some instructions on how to install the Electra tube connectors.

If you have not seen the Electra tube connectors then follow this link to our website and read all about them: http://gr-research.com/electracabletubeconnectors.aspx

These things beat any binding post ever made.

They install faster and easier than any binding post as well. Just follow these step by step instruction and you'll see just how easy it really is.

First you'll need to drill a 7/16" hole in your enclosure. These also work just as well in any enclosure thickness so no problems even with thick or multilayer walls.

Then feed the wire through the hole until it pokes out far enough for you to get a hold of it. 2 to 3 inches is fine. And slide your heat shrink on before you forget it.

Now a very important part to remember is to take the male stud that comes with the tube connectors and insert it into the end of the tube connector. This gives the internal wire a stopping point when you insert it. And the whole idea behind the tube connector is to get tip to tip contact from the internal wire to the speaker wire.

Now that you have a stopping point you can insert the internal wire from the speaker into the tube connector until it touches the stud inside of it. Then you mark its depth and strip it that far back.

Insert it and note that the insulation comes to the end of the tube connector. Now you are ready to crimp it.

When you go to crimp it make sure that the part of the crimping tool that pokes up goes into the back side of the tube connector because there is a slit in the tube on the front side.

Then crimp it right in the middle of the end of it.

Now note how it looks on the back side.

And the front side.

Then you solder it to seal the opening from any air passage.

Then slide the heat shrink down over it and seal it.

Now you can add just a slight amount of sealer around the outside of the tube connector. I use clear Silicone myself. Then press it into the pre-drilled hole. If you have to lightly tap it in with a small hammer that's okay too. It will smoothly drive in with very light taps.

Now wasn't that fast and easy?

And for the male plug, just strip the wire back and insert. This one has three 16 gauge conductors spiral wound.

After inserting it, and sliding it all the way to the end, just crip it, solder it, and slide some heat shrink up on it.

And a bonus is that it sounds better than a binding post.

Also see a review from New Record Day on the tube connectors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLnBW3wuBSU&feature=youtu.be

"Repeatable and easy to detect differences", even on one of our budget level kits and with an inexpensive system.

HT cOz · « **Reply #1 on:** 27 Apr 2011, 10:50 pm »

Danny great tutorial. Any ideas on what to use to terminate the speaker wires?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #2 on:** 27 Apr 2011, 11:26 pm »

Quote from: HT cOz on 27 Apr 2011, 10:50 pm

Danny great tutorial. Any ideas on what to use to terminate the speaker wires?

Terminate them with the male studs that come with a set of tube connectors. They are easy to install too. They are hollow all the way to the tip so it gets your speaker wire into the speaker and right up against the internal wire.

You can also use standard banana plugs as they fit perfectly too.

Ron · « **Reply #3 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 11:47 am »

I too think it is a great tutorial. This information should be very helpful to those who have never installed Electra Tube connectors before. I really like these connectors. They are easy to install and provide a better connection than most standard type binding post. For those who plan to use double type bananna plugs, be sure to space the connectors 3/4" apart center to center.

chip · « **Reply #4 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 02:08 pm »

Interesting as I soldered mine - is that a bad thing?
I am guessing that defeats the purpose of your mention of point to point contact.

If you are using speaker wire could you solder the speaker wire and then insert/crimp like you show?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #5 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 03:47 pm »

Quote

If you are using speaker wire could you solder the speaker wire and then insert/crimp like you show?

I am not sure if you are talking about internal or external speaker wire, but no need to solder until after inserting and crimping.

chip · « **Reply #6 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 03:54 pm »

wire from receiver to speaker -

For the wires / binding posts I pushed in as far as possible like you recommended and then soldered the piece with no crimping.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #7 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 04:16 pm »

Quote from: chip on 28 Apr 2011, 03:54 pm

wire from receiver to speaker -

For the wires / binding posts I pushed in as far as possible like you recommended and then soldered the piece with no crimping.

So long as it was soldered well and the hole was sealed then you are fine.

chip · « **Reply #8 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 04:23 pm »

What do you mean hole was sealed?

jtwrace · « **Reply #9 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 04:31 pm »

Quote from: chip on 28 Apr 2011, 04:23 pm

What do you mean hole was sealed?

Danny said:

Quote

Now you can add just a slight amount of sealer around the outside of the tube connector. I use clear Silicone myself. Then press it into the pre-drilled hole. If you have to lightly tap it in with a small hammer that's okay too. It will smoothly drive in with very light taps.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #10 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 05:03 pm »

Quote from: chip on 28 Apr 2011, 04:23 pm

What do you mean hole was sealed?

I meant the hole in the center of the tube. It is completely hollow from end to end.

jtwrace · « **Reply #11 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 05:05 pm »

Quote from: Danny on 28 Apr 2011, 05:03 pm

I meant the hole in the center of the tube. It is completely hollow from end to end.

Oops. I was trying to seal the wrong hole again.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #12 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 05:17 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 28 Apr 2011, 05:05 pm

Oops. I was trying to seal the wrong hole again.

So that's what you told her huh?

chip · « **Reply #13 on:** 28 Apr 2011, 05:33 pm »

praedet · « **Reply #14 on:** 30 Apr 2011, 01:17 pm »

So, to install these things in an amp, I am planning on putting it through the hole that currently exists for the binding post (It appears to be a 1/2" hole) and then use a piece of wood on the back side with a 7/16" hole drilled into it so that the Tube connector is solid. For now I planned to do without glue or silicon as the amp doesn't need to be sealed

and I can also undo the set-up easily if I need to that way. Does that sound right?

Ted

jtwrace · « **Reply #15 on:** 30 Apr 2011, 02:04 pm »

I'm surprised that Danny hasn't come out with the equipment side version for all you converts.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #16 on:** 30 Apr 2011, 02:55 pm »

Quote

Does that sound right?

Yep.

Quote from: jtwrace on 30 Apr 2011, 02:04 pm

I'm surprised that Danny hasn't come out with the equipment side version for all you converts.

I have talked about it with Electra Cable. It sounds like the up front tooling cost for yet another version would be quite high. I don't think they plan on it any time soon.

DeeJayBump · « **Reply #17 on:** 30 Apr 2011, 11:44 pm »

How well do these connectors work with bare wire-end speaker cables like Grover or Mapleshade cables?

praedet · « **Reply #18 on:** 1 May 2011, 03:21 am »

In my opinion, they will only work with those if you terminate them with the male half of the Electra Tube connector set-up...

The connectors are on the amp now. I'll get some pics in the morning. I went ahead and glued them as there was not enough friction to keep them in the chassis when I pulled on the speaker wire...

praedet · « **Reply #19 on:** 1 May 2011, 05:40 pm »

In a Class D Amp..