X-Statik and Voce Build

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Rojo22

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X-Statik and Voce Build
« on: 12 Jan 2023, 03:49 am »
Hello All!

I am a woodworker who likes listening to music (not an audiophile) and am in the process of building out the X-Statik and Voce kits.  I will start posting the progress as soon as I get the pictures off the camera and into the computer, probably tomorrow.  Please offer any and all advice!  I look forward to completing the project and listening to the speakers.

Danny Richie

Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #1 on: 12 Jan 2023, 03:47 pm »
I can't wait to see your build pics.

Vince in TX

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #2 on: 12 Jan 2023, 05:27 pm »
 :popcorn:

corndog71

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #3 on: 12 Jan 2023, 06:54 pm »
Welcome to the forum!  You’re going to be blown away by these speakers.  I’ve been enjoying mine for over 10 years!  They still blow me away!

Theronbo

Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #4 on: 12 Jan 2023, 11:33 pm »
Ooh! A woodworker!

There are some gorgeous builds on here…


Most of us are audiophiles… hacking some cabinets together…

But some here have done stunning work.

Anyway welcome… enjoy the journey.

PS If you’re building the X-Voce… might as well order a pair of X-on as well…

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #5 on: 13 Jan 2023, 12:56 am »
Theronbo

I have seen some beautiful builds as well on the forums, great achievements.  I am hoping to worry them out and create a worthy effort.  I have my 84 year old woodworking mentor advising me on the build, who is an old Navy sonar man.  He is looking over my shoulder to make sure I dont do anything unworthy....I am hoping I get the wiring correct, and don't create a ripple in the time continuum....

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #6 on: 13 Jan 2023, 01:21 am »
Some boring background information before I start posting some pics....
* I am using 27/32" MDF for the build- A technical school no longer was teaching woodworking and sold a ton of "non regular" sizes of MDF extremely cheap, and we had this around the shop, so if it doesn't look like 3/4" in the pics, that is why
* I decided to tenon in the interior braces into the side of the cabinet.  The tenons are 3/8" and all measurements were adjusted to make the interior spaces exactly the same as the instructions
* I tend to work with 1/64ths of inches when making flat work, and we got most of the measurements down to less than that after making the adjustments for the 27/32" MDF
* We have a ton of experience with veneers, and have typically used MEDEX for the base material, but we decided to use what we had on hand
* We have made decisions on how the veneers will best be applied using our techniques and may not be "normal" for most folks
* We use a special glue for our veneers which we have used on thousands of projects, and did not use iron on, or contact cement (more information later when we get to those steps)
* All of the work is done with machines and by hand, no CNC machines were harmed in the making of this post
* This is the first build I have done with speakers, and expect MR. MURPHY to join the party
* I am privileged to work in my woodworking mentors shop, which is Disneyland for woodworkers
* I have over 25 years worth of experience using the tools and techniques shown, and will point out when things are dangerous for someone who may not have used a tool or a specific technique

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #7 on: 13 Jan 2023, 01:30 am »
Chapter One- X-Statik Build


Step One:

Breakdown of material:  The MDF came in very large panels, which were cut in half to be stored.  We took the panels, and cut them on the panel saw to be over dimensioned.  We took about a week going over the plans, adjusting for the different sized material, and then laid out how we wanted to cut the parts.  I am going to surprise my woodworking mentor by cutting enough parts to create two sets of X-Statik cabinets, and also cut a few extras...for MR MURPHY.  My woodworking mentor does not know yet that we are building two sets of cabinets.  He is so excited about this build, I know he will want a set when we are done.
« Last Edit: 14 Jan 2023, 02:38 am by Rojo22 »

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #8 on: 13 Jan 2023, 01:41 am »



Step Two:

Dimensioning and squaring the working stock: The over dimensioned parts were taken to the table saw, and radial arm saw to ensure the pieces were squared and dimensioned correctly.  The first pieces I cut out were for the inside baffles, which I will refer to Parts B and C throughout the thread, the inside base piece, which I will refer to as Part D and also the cabinet sides, which I will refer to Parts I and J.
« Last Edit: 14 Jan 2023, 02:38 am by Rojo22 »

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #9 on: 13 Jan 2023, 01:48 am »



Step 3:

Cutting specific parts to length:  Parts B, C, D, I and J were cut.  If you notice I created part B, the inside baffle with the half circle the same size as the baffle with two circles (part C)...because I didn't pay attention to the length dimension in the plans correctly.  I realized my error, and proceeded to cut them to the correct length.  In hind sight, I wish I would have left them the same size, and then adjusted the measurements after I cut the holes in the parts.  More on this in the next few steps.
« Last Edit: 14 Jan 2023, 02:39 am by Rojo22 »

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #10 on: 13 Jan 2023, 02:06 am »









Step 4:

Milling parts B and C:  I set up a drill press with a set of stops which would allow me to use a fly cutter to cut the holes in the parts for B and C.  The measurements are NOT THE SAME for these parts.  Check your measurements, you will need to have a different set up for parts B and C.  If I had been paying attention, I would have created part B differently than I did.  I would have adjusted the fly cutter, and cut the holes in part B, and them trimmed off the ends to make the part to the correct dimensions.  The way I did do it, was to reset the stops, cut the full hole, and then use a band saw and a radius/drum sander for the half hole....Note to self check the parts list at least another 100 times!

SAFETY INFORMATION-  A fly cutter is a VERY DANGEROUS tool.  There are no guards, and it creates an enormous amount of torque.  If you look carefully, my stops are clamped to the drill press bed with metal clamps along with the part as well (I forgot to take a picture of this clamped to the stops).  A fly cutter requires an immense amount of respect and attention when in use.  If you use a fly cutter on MDF, be patient, always be aware of where your hands are, use a sharp tool, cut slowly, and NEVER bind up the piece when drilling.  Safety glasses and a breather mask are a must!
« Last Edit: 14 Jan 2023, 02:40 am by Rojo22 »

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #11 on: 13 Jan 2023, 02:26 am »





Step 5:

Milling Parts I and J:  These parts are tricky, only because I used a different thickness of material and used tenons for the baffle pieces.  The other thing to think of is a concept of Left and Right Parts.  I have chose to not cut the angle to the pieces for parts I and J, until I have created all of the rebates.  If you are flat gluing the parts together, you have no worries about a left and right part.  The plan is to create the rebates in the pieces, cut an indexing piece, place a left and right part together, cut the angle on a band saw, and clean up the cut with an edge sander to make sure everything matches up perfectly.  I completed cutting the rebates this afternoon, and will set up the index keys tomorrow, and cut the angles for the pieces.

I cut the rebates for the pieces using a 1/4" flat blade on the radial arm saw.  I measured the lower measurement, made my cut, and then placed an indexing piece on the stop for the thickness of material, and then removed the material in between the cuts.  The 1/4" blade leaves a wonderfully flat cut for gluing.  The cuts are exactly 3/8" deep to accommodate the 3/8" tenons.

In my zeal for creating the rebates, I cut full slots, and they are not needed for the baffle with the half hole, which is Part B.  I will cut some filler blocks and glue them in to make sure the slots are filled.
« Last Edit: 14 Jan 2023, 02:40 am by Rojo22 »

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #12 on: 13 Jan 2023, 02:36 am »



Status Update 1:

Parts B, C, D completed, Parts I and J need to be cut with the top angle and sanded.  The box will be glued together probably this weekend, and the two front parts will be cut, along with the top and back parts.  The bottom base part also needs to be cut.  An intense discussion is being held on what veneer type will be used to cover the speakers.  Stay tuned for the reveal on that one!
« Last Edit: 14 Jan 2023, 02:41 am by Rojo22 »

Theronbo

Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #13 on: 13 Jan 2023, 05:57 am »
You do have a ‘Disneyland’ workshop… wow.

What is that bit on the drill press for making such large holes?

Most everyone uses a jigsaw (ugly) or router with hole jig attachment…

I have a drill press… using router is a pain.

Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #14 on: 14 Jan 2023, 02:33 am »
Theronbo

It is called a fly cutter.  I will include a close up of it here.  You can probably go to one of the woodworking store's website and find one.  It has multiple adjustments and as long as you keep it sharp and are patient, and clamp everything down, it works great.  It can be very dangerous though, be careful with it.  Its a good alternative to the router and jigsaw.  You can go up to about 6 1/2 inches with the size that is shown.  Hope that helps!








Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #15 on: 14 Jan 2023, 02:48 am »
Step 6:

First Dry Fitting attempt of all the parts: 

I took the sides (Parts I and J), and placed the baffles in the rebates to test the fit and make sure I had everything in the right place.  I found a few places where the parts were binding, and made sure they were adjusted for a better fit.



Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #16 on: 14 Jan 2023, 02:57 am »
Step 7:

Create the "keys" for Parts I and J to be cut with the slant on the top of the cabinet:

I created two "keys" for the top and bottom rebate in the Parts I and J.  This is where the right and left are paired up.  After this step, we will have matched pairs for the cabinets.  I took some cutoff MDF material and cut it a little over 5/8" for the keys.




"Keys" placed in one of the side parts (Part J)




Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #17 on: 14 Jan 2023, 03:05 am »
Step 8:

Making a Sandwich of Sides and cutting the slant for the top of the cabinet: 

I took the matching side to the one in the previous step, placed it on the keys, taped up the "sandwich" and marked the slant line on the top of the cabinet sides (Parts I and J).  I checked 20 times to make sure I was cutting the slant in the right direction!  I then took the "sandwich" over to the band saw and cut the angle, leaving the marked line.  I will take the "sandwich" over to the horizontal edge sander and flush up the sides next.










Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #18 on: 14 Jan 2023, 03:17 am »
Step 9:

Dressing the edges of the sides:

Now is the time to "true" up all the edges and make sure everything is square after the slant has been cut. 








Rojo22

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Re: X-Statik and Voce Build
« Reply #19 on: 14 Jan 2023, 03:22 am »
Step 10:

Second Dry Fitting of Parts:

I put the parts all back together again and dry fitted the cabinets after sanding and cutting the top slant.