Timothy C's OB Build

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timc90

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #20 on: 15 Jun 2024, 08:02 am »
Thanks for the pro-tip! I chose to make all the vinyl layer cuts first then break a blade off and cut all the foam. Felt it was easier to keep cuts straight and all that way.



Glue up is done. Again for some reason no matter how much I tried to tighten the clamps, I wasn't able to get a small "lip" to be routed off later like in Peter's video. Not a big deal I hope.



Pleased the no-rez pieces fit well.

I'm sourcing for a bypass caps to place in parallel with the tweeter Sonicaps but other than that, can someone please confirm whether I've got things hooked up right? Thank you!



« Last Edit: 17 Jun 2024, 01:40 am by timc90 »

nlitworld

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #21 on: 15 Jun 2024, 01:18 pm »
Wiring looks correct, but you'll want to edit the photo to scribble out the values of the parts on the screen. To be courteous and maintain intellectual property, you don't want to air all the secrets.  8) That is super tidy inside with the no-rez so nice work there.

A few people used the no-rez on the top ramp and then tried a different material to get a little more reflectivity and airy top end sparkle. I know NXSTUDIODRUMMER posted about it a while back so I tried and liked it as well. Basically an ability to "season to taste" on how much upper treble presence you get. I'll poke through my Amazon list and see if I can find the link.

-Lloyd

timc90

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #22 on: 15 Jun 2024, 02:02 pm »
Ah thanks Lloyd for the guidance on protecting IP! Apologies for my oversight. I've modified my post and blanked out the values.

And thank you for the confirmation on wiring being correct, I can proceed to soldering tomorrow with peace of mind :)

nlitworld

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #23 on: 15 Jun 2024, 02:30 pm »
Link Here to the top ramp material mod. Get these finished and run them for a while. Then if you're curious, test it out. I liked it, but your room and your gear may prove different. We're all excited to see progress, so keep it up! Just wait til you get to first plug them in.  :popcorn:

timc90

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #24 on: 16 Jun 2024, 11:59 pm »
Thanks Lloyd!

I wasn't fond of screwing the crossover board directly into the cabinet base so I decided to make a mounting base of sorts.



With the beams screwed onto the crossover board, I applied wood glue on them and placed the assembly onto the cabinet base.



Once the glue dried, I unscrewed the crossover board, leaving the mounting base in the cabinet.



I thiiink that completes all the cabinet assembly needed, so I can start sanding, staining and lacquering now.

tom739

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #25 on: 19 Jun 2024, 08:46 pm »
Looking back at the photo of your completed speaker cables, I noticed what looks like discoloration of the copper seen in the clear jacket wire. Is that greenish oxidation on the copper wire?

timc90

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #26 on: 20 Jun 2024, 04:59 am »
Looking back at the photo of your completed speaker cables, I noticed what looks like discoloration of the copper seen in the clear jacket wire. Is that greenish oxidation on the copper wire?

Yes there is some discoloration though I'm not sure if it is solder or oxidation. Even though I feel I did not have the soldering iron applied for long...

Will it cause issues? If yes, should I cut off the oxided section and try again? Not sure what I'd do differently though... I'm not confident I'd be able to get a good solder joint using a cooler iron or applying for a shorter time  :(



Hobbsmeerkat

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #27 on: 20 Jun 2024, 10:35 pm »
Yes there is some discoloration though I'm not sure if it is solder or oxidation. Even though I feel I did not have the soldering iron applied for long...

Will it cause issues? If yes, should I cut off the oxided section and try again? Not sure what I'd do differently though... I'm not confident I'd be able to get a good solder joint using a cooler iron or applying for a shorter time  :(


It's definitely oxidation. Since it's mainly at the ends, it's most likely caused by corrosive oils from your fingers when you were initially making the cables. Wearing clean gloves and/or washing your hands regularly while working on them will help prevent the issue.

It's not going to completely destroy your sound quality or anything but it will affect it, especially if it continues to get worse.

If you do decide to trim and redo them, I would recommend de-soldering the current spades as it should make it easier to solder the new wires onto them again than trying again with fresh spades.

tom739

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #28 on: 24 Jun 2024, 09:20 pm »
Yes, it looks like oxidation to me. Not sure about the corrosive oil theory. Are you suggesting natural skin oil, or some other oil?

Hobbsmeerkat

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #29 on: 24 Jun 2024, 09:52 pm »
Yes, it looks like oxidation to me. Not sure about the corrosive oil theory. Are you suggesting natural skin oil, or some other oil?
Yes, natural skin oils, as it's often a combination of oil, sweat, dirt. etc. which will be corrosive.

timc90

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Re: Timothy C's OB Build
« Reply #30 on: 9 Jul 2024, 08:17 am »
Thanks all for the input! Guess it must have been the blood, sweat and tears that went into stripping the 96 strands of wires and on the tube connector end, separating out the thickest two gauges and twisting those together.

If I redo them, I'd probably have to redo all 8 connectors while wearing gloves because I guess in some way or another, all of them have been affected but the corrosion is just hiding behind the opaque white sleeves/ heat shrink.

For now I have used a marker to indicate where the corrosion stops and will monitor whether it gets worse and creeps further along the cable. Eventually I'll redo them but want to first enjoy some music for awhile. All work and no music makes Timothy a dull boy.



I'm basically done with dying and lacquering the cabinets. No garage for me so the lift lobby it is. Thankfully it's an open air lobby so there's ventilation (which also means there's wind. And dust. And bugs. And...)

Determining the right length for the internal speaker wires caused me some anxiety. I was worried if I cut as I go like in Danny's video https://youtu.be/QT-GKorvjak?si=ESDg3RaSKYjLr5uR, I'd run out of wire. But if I cut what I had based on simply dividing what I had into 2 short, 2 medium and 2 long sections, that I'd find some sections were too short.

In the end what worked for me was:
- 200mm red wire from tube connector to cross over
- 500mm red wire from crossover to woofer
- 500mm red wire from crossover to tweeter
- 500mm white wire from crossover to woofer
- forgot to measure the white wire from tweeter to crossover to tube connector but there's definitely sufficient white wire for this. I referred to Danny's video to estimate the appropriate length.

For heat shrink this is what I cut:
30mm 6 red and 3 white
45mm 2 white - for the joints between wire and crossover component



Soldered the crossovers together and confirmed that the lengths of wire would work. Think I could have done a better job with the foil inductors, but connectivity test using a DMM checked out so it should work even with the ugly joints.

Letting the lacquer dry for a few days before I polish it... and move on to final assembly!!!