[doug s.]

Have you tried it before the Melos? If so what were your results? If not, why not? Just curious as someone who will be going down a similar path soon...

no, i haven't tried it before my preamp.  i have more than 3 inputs; the eva-2 has only 3 inputs.  inputs include cd, winyl, 2 tunas, and computer for internet streaming.  and, i have a dbx in the melos' tape loop, which i like to use for compressed recordings.  it's 100% out of the signal path when disengaged...  it never occurred to me to try it before the preamp, as i never had anything but stellar results when i inserted it after... 

if you are like most "normal" folks,    you should be fine running an eva-2 (or warpspeed w/multiple inputs) before your preamp, as most folks have 3 or less sources, and do not use a dbx, or otherwise have use for a tape loop.

doug s.

[BFitz]

BFitz, I'm not back here to restart an argument but the above quote is all that make sense to me from your post. The other statements also show you still don't have a good handle on how the optocouplers work...

First, I consider this an attack, from the view point that there is only one person who *really* understands optocouplers, and that everyone else is in the woods.

Warpspeed CE may have nice products that people like, but that does not give him a license to dismiss people or their experience carte blance, as above, with no reply to points made.

If you want to discuss a response to the technical points above, please do so.
Where is disagreement showing misunderstanding?

Am I not allowed to post here without being summarily dismissed, and undermined? These points above are broad, and talk about multiple LDR designs, not any one in particular.

   

[BFitz]

For users who want to try the W'speed with an active preamp, connect the W'speed before the active preamp and not after it.

Did you miss this part in my post above?

"Normally there is a pot in FRONT of the gain stage, to attenuate the signal."

 

[raysracing]

I can see wanting it simple, but not too simple. The problem here is the one output is driving the other output, even when off. Not optimal. Why not make / buy a little switchbox? A DPDT switch would give 2 in, one out X 2 channels.

I thought it sounded a bit hazy after switching, but I didnt try it back to one single source. I may do that tonight depending on if I hit the cave tonight. For sure it still sounds so amazing even with this crazy set-up.

Edit:ok, I am using one input at a time or building a switching box. That was kind of an amazing back to back comparo for sure. No need for blind testing on this  one.

[Letitroll98]

Okay, you gentlemen have about 3 seconds to start behaving, we just cleaned up this thread.   Warpspeed CE, your post is fine except the part where you reply to BFitz, which is blatantly baiting him.  BFitz, your posts are fine except the ones you reply to Warpspeed CE in.  This gives us a wonderful opportunity to nip this in the bud, ergo:

Warpspeed CE and BFitz are not allowed to respond to each other's posts in this circle in any way, shape or form.  This means implied and direct statements.  Violation of this will result in the posts being deleted, the thread locked, and both participants banned from posting in this circle, at least until I forget about how much time was wasted on this.

This will allow both parties to contribute their very valuable insights, without any incites.  Neither party will be shouted down by the other and we all can benefit from their considerable experience. 

[Warpspeed CE]

I will abide...

[Warpspeed CE]

To crank our Thread back to life...

I have 2 conceptual and preliminary designs for a multichannel unit. Please let me know if you have something, application-wise in mind...For specific questions please PM me (email is better -click on envelope below my name).

For further online discussions please visit the Warpspeed thread at diyAudio. Thanks!

[Rclark]

Alan, I really wish you would empty your pm box  . Tried to message you. Failed repeatedly.

Honestly, you've probably missed a lot of orders this way!

[Warpspeed CE]

Ok, I dunnit...

[Early B.]

To crank our Thread back to life...

I have 2 conceptual and preliminary designs for a multichannel unit. The following features are what I have in mind:

-both designs are switchable from 2-ch to +2, or +4, for a 6-ch total in Unbalanced(RCAs) only mode; and Balanced(mini-XLRs) only will also be from 2-ch to +2, or +4, for a 6-ch total

-the 1st design is the HT unit and will have Front L-R, Center, Surround L-R, and Sub; the Front L-R will have a balance control; the Center and Surround channels will have 8dB level controls; and a main volume control for a >110dB of attenuation

-the 2nd design is the 6-ch unit that will have 6 identical line level inputs/outs with individual 8dB level controls and a main volume control that attenuates up to >110dB; depending on preference, channels can be switch added as described above

-the 8dB level controls are continuous fine adjustments from the transWarp design, used to tune each channel in relation to each other

-all channels are full-bandwidth without any filtering

-both designs are battery powered

-both have optional remote control for the Main VC

I believe these features fit most stereo and HT applications for most audiophiles. I have no pricing and timelines yet.

Please let me know if you have something else, application-wise in mind...Thanks!

Alan -- can you explain how to integrate a Warpspeed into an HT system. I'm having trouble conceptualizing how the Warpspeed will work in an HT system. How does it bypass the volume control on the HT processor or AV receiver?

[Warpspeed CE]

That would be easy, Brad...we will bypass the AV processor or receiver altogether:) You will need a Bluray/DVD player with Front L-R, Surround L-R, Center, SW analog OUTs(RCA or XLRs) -all of Oppo's line-up has the RCAs and others out their might have the Balanced XLRs for each channel; 5 channels of amplification; 5 loudspeakers; a powered sub and you're ready to rock your listening room with movies in surround.

All the processing that we need is inside today's Bluray/DVD players. Additional processing are only if we require some artificial ambience like Theater/Arena/Sports, etc. Surround time delays are mostly for small rooms. If you really want to incorporate a processor, one with the 6 ch of analog outputs will be needed.

We will need some serious amount of cabling though...but who's afraid of cables? 

[Early B.]

That would be easy, Brad...we will bypass the AV processor or receiver altogether:) You will need a Bluray/DVD player with Front L-R, Surround L-R, Center, SW analog OUTs(RCA or XLRs) -all of Oppo's line-up has the RCAs and others out their might have the Balanced XLRs for each channel; 5 channels of amplification; 5 loudspeakers; a powered sub and you're ready to rock your listening room with movies in surround.

All the processing that we need is inside today's Bluray/DVD players. Additional processing are only if we require some artificial ambience like Theater/Arena/Sports, etc. Surround time delays are mostly for small rooms. If you really want to incorporate a processor, one with the 6 ch of analog outputs will be needed.

We will need some serious amount of cabling though...but who's afraid of cables?

Gotcha. 

I have an Emotiva HT processor that trumps the sound of AV receivers. If I remove it and rely exclusively on my blu-ray DVD player to process the signal for me, will I be compromising the sound? Besides, AV receivers and processors come with a wealth of other goodies that make them very useful such as bass management, mics for adjusting the sound, iPod integration, USB ports, wireless connectivity, 3D capability, etc. Seems as though the usefulness of an HT Warpspeed would be limited to multi-channel audio for those who still listen to SACD and DVD-A. Am I way off base here? I hope so.

[Warpspeed CE]

I don't think the sound will be compromised based on what I hear with my Warpspeed on movies. The clarity of sound also comes through and dialogue is just excellent. Please try it with yours...

Bells and whistles are what the W'speed cannot offer. Bass management with variable xover bass frequencies is offered by the Oppo 93 and 95...so with USB ports, wireless connectivity, 3D capability, and a host of others which most of us probably do not need.

Unused channels can be switched off to just stereo channels for all your audiophile music needs...

[Rclark]

I plug my ps3 into the system and watch blurays. Sounds frikkin awesome! Master and Commander is a really good benchmark and through the WS you get it all, totally pristine.

[usp1]

Not to derail the thread but Master and Commander is an awesome movie for sound effects. The battle scenes are simply amazing ...the boom of th cannons coupled with the tinkling of breaking glass is unreal.

[Early B.]

I don't think the sound will be compromised based on what I hear with my Warpspeed on movies. The clarity of sound also comes through and dialogue is just excellent. Please try it with yours...

Bells and whistles are what the W'speed cannot offer. Bass management with variable xover bass frequencies is offered by the Oppo 93 and 95...so with USB ports, wireless connectivity, 3D capability, and a host of others which most of us probably do not need.

Unused channels can be switched off to just stereo channels for all your audiophile music needs...

OK, I'm convinced. The key is gonna be in your pricing strategy, especially with a remote option which is a greater convenience for HT than 2-channel.

[guest1632]

I don't think the sound will be compromised based on what I hear with my Warpspeed on movies. The clarity of sound also comes through and dialogue is just excellent. Please try it with yours...

Bells and whistles are what the W'speed cannot offer. Bass management with variable xover bass frequencies is offered by the Oppo 93 and 95...so with USB ports, wireless connectivity, 3D capability, and a host of others which most of us probably do not need.

Unused channels can be switched off to just stereo channels for all your audiophile music needs...

Hi, This may seem like a stupid question, ... here goes. I am thinking about getting one of your couplers. If I happen to wire the battery or 500MA 12VDC backwards, I know the LEDs won't work. Will this damage anything else?

Also, I think I asked this before, and received no answer to this. You say the voltage requirements for this coupler is between 12V and 24V. If I raise the voltage to say 18V assuming I am using the same like a 500MA wallwart, will there be any differences here?


Ray Bronk

[Letitroll98]

Warpspeed CE you have a PM.

[InfernoSTi]

Hi, This may seem like a stupid question, ... here goes. I am thinking about getting one of your couplers. If I happen to wire the battery or 500MA 12VDC backwards, I know the LEDs won't work. Will this damage anything else?

Also, I think I asked this before, and received no answer to this. You say the voltage requirements for this coupler is between 12V and 24V. If I raise the voltage to say 18V assuming I am using the same like a 500MA wallwart, will there be any differences here?


Ray Bronk

Ray,

I had similar worries.  What I got back from WarpspeedCE was that using the battery was important.  I can tell you, it hasn't been an inconvenience in my system at all.  What I did was spend a little more on a battery that I worked with WarpspeedCE on selecting.  This has a couple of advantages:

First, it has never run down. I have measured it after a month of extended listening and it has always been nearly fully charged.  I learned that more frequent recharging rather than deep cycling the SLA batteries is preferred, so every few weeks I recharge it while I am at work (I have certain "long" work days that last 14+ hours so that is when I charge the battery...disconnected from the WS). 

Second, I know I bought the right "type" (both in type of battery and in connector style). 

Third, WarpspeedCE made the power cord with color coding for the tabs so it is simple to make sure you have the polarity right.  And since it is a quick disconnect on the back of the WS, I never removed the power cord tabs.  Very simple and worry free.  You can see in the photo that the battery has a manufacture's "red" positive marking and the power cord is color coded "red" for positive and "black" for negative.



Here is a quote of my charging comments and batter type from earlier in the thread, if that is helpful:

All this talk of failed SLA batteries caused me to check my battery: 12.24 DCV after 30 days of listening sessions.  I'm glad I got a large battery but will continue to check it's voltage regularly.  I have already posted this before but will post again for those who are looking for batteries to purchase.  I'm using a Panasonic SLA 12v 7.2aH battery:

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-LC-R127R2P1-battery-lead-acid/dp/B0002ILJX2/ref%3dsr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318202010&sr=8-2

John

Best,
John

[Warpspeed CE]

Thank you for your explanation, John. The picture helps too!