Crossover assembly 101

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Hobbsmeerkat

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #360 on: 21 Nov 2023, 12:56 am »
Is the stranded wire the same as you send with the OB Sub kits? I had some left over from a build and my friend used it on some DIY bookshelves he was building, it worked well for him.
Same manufacturer, but 16 gauge instead of the 14 gauge supplied with the subs.

KTS

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #361 on: 21 Nov 2023, 11:46 am »
Thank you Hobbs

rich blackwell

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #362 on: 27 Dec 2023, 01:49 am »
Hello, New guy on the block here, I have some Polk RTI-8s... Not much to start with but the crossovers are in need of help or total replacement.
The caps are all out of spec or bad. I am having trouble sourcing direct replacements, and would love some advice.
I would like to know what my options are, in your opinion.
Thank You,
Rich B

halej1

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #363 on: 21 Apr 2024, 08:55 pm »
Hello - New to the forum but have built three or four of GR research upgrades. hope to learn more as I go.

halej1

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #364 on: 21 Apr 2024, 08:59 pm »
Woking on Warfedale Linton upgrade. Does anyone have eperience with this? Hints would be most welcome. THe first would be how to get the tweeter faceplate removed?  Thank you

WoodGuy99

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #365 on: 20 Oct 2024, 02:12 pm »
Hello, I purchased the X_LS Encore kit.  How can I view the pictures in your post?  All I see is the text.  If I go to the gallery I do not see pictures relevant to the post.

Hobbsmeerkat

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #366 on: 20 Oct 2024, 10:24 pm »
Hello, I purchased the X_LS Encore kit.  How can I view the pictures in your post?  All I see is the text.  If I go to the gallery I do not see pictures relevant to the post.

Unfortunately most of those old pictures were lost when the site was originally updated a few years ago, in late 2020.
you will need to contact us via email: info@gr-research.com

You can also see the crossovers in the assembly video for the X-LS Encore on Youtube.
https://youtu.be/rIxig_9i-Iw

ggaites

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #367 on: 20 Nov 2024, 07:54 am »
Are these binding posts a problem? Nothing is touching, and it’s all insulated…






« Last Edit: 20 Nov 2024, 03:36 pm by ggaites »

richidoo

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #368 on: 22 Nov 2024, 04:26 pm »
Welcome to AudioCircle, ggaites!

The output terminal spacing is fine as long as no shorts.

You have steel (magnetic) nuts and bolts in the magnetic flux path of the inductors (lined up with the hole axis.) That's a no-no because the steel interferes with the flux path of the coil.

Steel parts also should never be in the electrical signal path. They can be used as a mechanical clamp to hold non-ferrous signal conductors together, but it's still better to not have any steel touching the circuit at all. At the XO input you have a terminal block with steel conductor strips between the attachment screws. That's bad news because the signal will actually flow through steel. So you must attach your crimp connectors as above, stacked together on the same screw using the terminal only as a mechanical clamp, not as signal conductor. On that kind of terminal block the screws might be deformed at the end so they can't be removed, so you might just ditch that terminal block. You can use terminal solder strips instead, if you like the concept. Or...

The best solution is to solder to the crossover directly, or use WAGO connectors if a temporary connection is required. Manufacturers invariably use spade connectors, but these can have problems too.

Tyson

Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #369 on: 22 Nov 2024, 04:44 pm »
I like to use a combo of zip ties and hot glue to keep parts secured to the board.  Just FYI.

Hobbsmeerkat

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Re: Crossover assembly 101
« Reply #370 on: 22 Nov 2024, 05:42 pm »
We definitely recommend avoiding anything steel/iron based. It will eat up a lot of clarity/resolution, especially considering how much, and having it all so close the one inductor is going to affect it's actual value.
At a minimum, everything should be replaced with equivalent brass nuts/bolts/screws. (if not plastic to help reduce the mass amounts of the metal which will also hurt clarity)

Ideally, the wiring to the inputs/drivers should be directly soldered to the crossovers, but if you want to keep the crossover removable, you can use tube connectors which will get you as close to directly soldered connection as is possible, without the need for a lot of metal in the signal path.