V2 build from malaysia

kp93300 · « **Reply #20 on:** 11 Aug 2011, 01:51 am »

Hi Good day ,
I was cutting the No rez last night and the edges are no where near what i saw in the images posted in this forum. i use a sharp blade and try cutting by a garden scissor.

What is the equipment to use?
thanks

kp93300

jtwrace · « **Reply #21 on:** 11 Aug 2011, 01:54 am »

Table saw, band saw, jig saw....

Danny Richie · « **Reply #22 on:** 11 Aug 2011, 02:03 am »

I use the table saw and it cits like butter.

mumbles · « **Reply #23 on:** 11 Aug 2011, 06:15 pm »

Just curious if the No Rez muddies the blade of your table saw?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #24 on:** 11 Aug 2011, 06:23 pm »

Quote from: mumbles on 11 Aug 2011, 06:15 pm

Just curious if the No Rez muddies the blade of your table saw?

Nope.

kp93300 · « **Reply #25 on:** 13 Aug 2011, 10:59 pm »

Hi Danny and all,
I tried the table saw and the edge is still not as neat as expected,
I finally ask my friend to cut with the snap blade. He cuts it very neatly by applying many gentle passes along the edge of a ruler.I was trying to cut it in one pass and that was the mistake.

I need advice with regard to the box housing the plate amp.
The size of the box is 8 x 12 x15 inches. several 1 inch holes are place at the top and the sides.The ambient temp is about 30 deg C
Do i need to install a 4 inches computer fan inside the box for cooling purposes.?

thanks

kp93300

.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #26 on:** 15 Aug 2011, 02:10 pm »

I usually just make the box about 3.5" deep and it is sealed. No heating problems at all.

kp93300 · « **Reply #27 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 04:24 am »

HI
I finally completed the V2 and trying to dial in the crossover freq and volume in the plate amp for the past few days.

Any guideline as to the technique of adjusting the plate amp controls ?

I am now doing it by ear and thinking of taking out the DEQ 2496 from the store.
The bass is amazing ! Profuse amount of quality bass and no room boom !
I will do a comparison with OB 5 at a later stage.
Danny, will the box cover for the crossover affect the sound ?

Thanks to Danny and everybody in this forum.

kp93300

Some pictures of the build .

Danny Richie · « **Reply #28 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 05:26 am »

Quote

Any guideline as to the technique of adjusting the plate amp controls ?

Set phase at 180 and then work with the crossover and gain.

Quote

I am now doing it by ear and thinking of taking out the DEQ 2496 from the store.

More than likely it will sound better with that out of the signal path.

Quote

Danny, will the box cover for the crossover affect the sound ?

Your crossover box is pretty tall. That will have some effect on the response. A shorter box will help a lot.

jtwrace · « **Reply #29 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 02:00 pm »

Doesn't that fan cooling your amp drive you nuts?

kp93300 · « **Reply #30 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 04:58 pm »

Quote from: jtwrace on 3 Sep 2011, 02:00 pm

Doesn't that fan cooling your amp drive you nuts?

The fan is quiet and I cannot hear it from my listening position about 6 ft away. The heat sink is too small for the Aleph J amp

I need some help for another problem .

I was very upset that one of my family members press the centre dust cap for the mid/ high speaker.

I was thinking of dismantling the tweeter by removing the 3 screws near to the input terminal. Then gently push out the centre cap with a blunt end of a wooden chopstick.
Will this work ?
I have never done this before !

gooberdude · « **Reply #31 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 05:13 pm »

If the co-axial is built like mine from a difft mfgr is, then all you have to do is separate the compression tweeter from the mid woofer. Then from the backside of the woofer, use a tool to push the dust cap back to normal.

I don't recommend unscrewing the 3 screws on the back of the compression tweeter to fix this problem. That will just expose the voicecoil to your tweeter.

ebag4 · « **Reply #32 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 05:31 pm »

Assuming the compression tweeter of the 8" P-audio unit is attached in the same manner as my V1 you can unscrew the tweeter from the mid by twisting the entire tweeter housing counter clockwise (when viewed from the rear). I believe I read that Danny was shipping the V2 mid/tweeters already mounted to each other so this may not be obvious. Once you have the tweeter off you can simply pass a thin blunt object up throught the tweeter "horn" (for lack of a better term) and push the cap out.

Best,
Ed

jkelly · « **Reply #33 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 07:26 pm »

Quote from: kp93300 on 3 Sep 2011, 04:58 pm

I was very upset that one of my family members press the centre dust cap for the mid/ high speaker.

I was thinking of dismantling the tweeter by removing the 3 screws near to the input terminal. Then gently push out the centre cap with a blunt end of a wooden chopstick.
Will this work ?
I have never done this before !

Generally if you have some strong tape, you can work along the edge of the dent, touch the cap with the tape and pull up quickly a little bit of the dented area.
Work your way around and you should be able to pull up the entire dent slowly.

Jeff

WC · « **Reply #34 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 09:56 pm »

you could also use a vacuum cleaner to pull it out. Worked for me.

kp93300 · « **Reply #35 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 11:12 pm »

Quote from: ebag4 on 3 Sep 2011, 05:31 pm

Assuming the compression tweeter of the 8" P-audio unit is attached in the same manner as my V1 you can unscrew the tweeter from the mid by twisting the entire tweeter housing counter clockwise (when viewed from the rear). I believe I read that Danny was shipping the V2 mid/tweeters already mounted to each other so this may not be obvious. Once you have the tweeter off you can simply pass a thin blunt object up throught the tweeter "horn" (for lack of a better term) and push the cap out.

Best,
Ed

Hi Ed,
I follow your advice and push the dust cap out with the blunt end of the chopstick. Job done in 5 minutes.

Many thanks

kp93300

kp93300 · « **Reply #36 on:** 7 Sep 2011, 02:13 am »

Hi Danny,
I have been enjoying V2 for the past few days and rediscovering my music .
I did not notice any high frequency issue described in the other thread.In fact when compared to OB5 , there is slight lack of hf
There is an extra Mills 30 R resistor

from the tweeter inductor to ground.This is not noted in the crossover build for Guy33 in the sticky thread.
Is this a different crossover design ?

Hope to seek clarification.

kp93300

Danny Richie · « **Reply #37 on:** 7 Sep 2011, 04:29 am »

Typically instead of mounting the 30 ohm resistor on the crossover, it is mounted across the terminals of the tweeter. It has always been there.

kp93300 · « **Reply #38 on:** 11 Dec 2011, 06:19 am »

I want to share a cheap and easy to build class A amplifier that works wonder with V2.
I was thinking of simplying my set up and remove clutter in my set up.
I came across the John Lindsey Hood amplifier published in 1969 !
This is the link
http://www.tcaas.btinternet.co.uk/index-1.htm

I bought a kit of the amp from ebay for less than US 40
There is enough gain with the amp to dispense with preamp. JLH 69 is driven directly by Twisted Pear Buffalo 2 and a passive volume pot made from Light emitting diode--Lightspeed clone.

The power supply is a capacitor multiplier from Elliot Sound Pages.

Well, the result is beyond my expectations.
The amp drives the V2 with power to spare in my 180 sq ft room.
This is a toe tapping and head nodding combination that i recommend for for people who want great sound for minimal outlay .
I describe the amp as very good at detail retrieval with very good timing cues. The room ambience and decay is excellent and this result in a huge soundstage .
The high, mid and low freq reproduction are excellent.
regards

kp93300

kp93300 · « **Reply #39 on:** 11 Dec 2011, 06:22 am »

More pictures