[SteveRB]

Then I want you to pull them further out into the room by about 6" at a time and take measurements each time. Then let's see if the dipped area in the 200Hz range and a little lower comes back up. I think it is a wall reflection cancellation.

WOW!

6" might as well be a mile. Needless to say, Danny was dead on. The curves are much better. And image is focused. I will post images later -- right now I am too busy listening to records.

[Captainhemo]

WOW!

6" might as well be a mile. Needless to say, Danny was dead on. The curves are much better. And image is focused. I will post images later -- right now I am too busy listening to records.

Amazing 6" can make such a difference .    Interesting and good to know  .  Enjoy those records

-jay

[Danny Richie]

 

[SteveRB]

The repositioning really helped. After listening for a couple hours last night I tweaked the volume up 3-4 notches from what is attached above. They are still not perfect, but certainly better than before and pretty decent for my room. There is still an obvious issue between 100Hz-300Hz. i am hoping a room treatment or two will help that.

Any tips on what will help bring up that dip is appreciated... home-made tube traps, maybe?

Each channel had a peak of different intensity at 50Hz and 80Hz. So I used the PEQ to reduce the 50Hz on the right side and reduce the 80Hz on the left side. Not sure if that is 'correct' but it certainly smoothed out the low end and gave a fullness that I had not yet experienced in this room.

[tasar]

That ones that I am making for Serenity Acoustics are $90 a piece. The wire is continuous caste Copper.

Are you installing the top grade Cardas in concert w. the best Sonicap ?
Last check, those platinums were $$ pricey, making this offer at $90 looking pretty fair. I like the option of the split out, as I can check the 2 Bent module outs for sonic variation.

[Danny Richie]

The Platinum caps alone are $42.80 each for a .047.

I don't remember just which Cardas pieces those are, but some of their better ones.

[Danny Richie]

Hey Steve, try them another 6" forward if you can and see what it does.

And what you are getting for an in room response above 300Hz is awesome.

[SteveRB]

Hey Steve, try them another 6" forward if you can and see what it does.

And what you are getting for an in room response above 300Hz is awesome.

Had a great time listening to records the other night. I may just keep everything  as is for a month or so just to get used to it. Not sure if the rest of the family will appriciate the speakers further into the room. I can wait until I have the place to myself for a weekend to move them out more.

Next step is a few treatments and curtains.

The mids and highs are fantastic. Very detailed and fun. Crazy holographic images. Played a little OutKast and the 808s where very deep.

Thanks again. Ill revive this thread when I get a chance to move more stuff around here.

[SteveRB]

The first is obvious. Using a first order filter in line with your amp to the upper driver you can soften down that peak a little at 300Hz. This is an inline RCA filter. The in line cap would need to be about a .033uF or .047uF. This will also take away the output that you are getting from that driver below 100Hz.

I have asked a couple dealers about this, and they have no idea what I am talking about. After further explanation, I am getting a ton of push back regarding any in-line filters.

Danny, how rare is this practise? it seems to make a ton of sense they way you explain it?

Thoughts?

[Danny Richie]

I have asked a couple dealers about this, and they have no idea what I am talking about. After further explanation, I am getting a ton of push back regarding any in-line filters.

Danny, how rare is this practise? it seems to make a ton of sense they way you explain it?

Thoughts?

Most of them have no idea what it is or how it works. The same guy that will tell you that putting a cap in the signal path like that is a bad deal is the same guy that unknowing has a larger value coupling cap in his pre-amp or DAC doing the exact same thing. Typically most output devices with a coupling cap use between a 1uF (on the small side) to a 3.3uF cap value. The larger the cap the less it restricts the lower ranges. Values smaller than a 1.0 typically start rolling off output in an audible range. A .047uF value can make them as much as 2.5db down by 200Hz.

[SteveRB]

That is pretty much what I figured. I have been walking the rep through the idea. I think that he got it when I explained it is better than adding an entire EQ unit to the system -- just to knock down one room mode.

[HAL]

Just for reference Magnepan use to sell a passive crossover like this for the MGIIB's I had, for biamping.  Was a single series connected coupling cap for high pass with the mid/tweeter panel and just a volume control for the bass panel to adjust levels.   Worked well with my setup at the time. 

[bdp24]

Just for reference Magnepan use to sell a passive crossover like this for the MGIIB's I had, for biamping.  Was a single series connected coupling cap for high pass with the mid/tweeter panel and just a volume control for the bass panel to adjust levels.   Worked well with my setup at the time.

When the original Magneplanars (model 1-U; three 16" X 6' hinged panels per side, making them 4' wide by 6' tall) were introduced in 1973 , Audio Research was distributing and marketing them, recommending them for use with their amps. The speakers had a built-in passive first-order cross-over centered at 1500hz, one panel for 1500 upward, the other two for below. ARC offered a separate little box for bi-amping the 1-U's, the PC-1. It had a four pots, one for each range for both channels, 1000hz being the x-over frequency. Using it meant the addition of extra connections and cables, so people started putting x-over components on the input jacks of their power amps, the values being determined by the amp's input impedance and the x-over frequency desired. Still the best way to bi-amp, providing there is a way to adjust levels. 

[SteveRB]

Another set up question/discussion:

How much are other V1 and Super V owners toeing-in their speakers? That is, how much of the inside panel is visible from the listening position...?

I've tried a couple variations, but these things are heavy so major adjustments have been few and far between...

[Captainhemo]

Hey Steve
I was doing some reding  for starting pints  t set up  my OB7's and I  saw a website (can't remeber wihch one) recommending to use a laser pointer to aling the insdie edge of each spekaer with main listening position.  Granted this was not   V1 or Super V specific but it may be a good starting point.   I did this with the OB7's  and found I need to toe them out  a little bit from  there to get the best sound along with best sound stage.  I am still paying a bit but think I have them close now

-jay