Does anyone have a photo of Super-V crossover finished?

mono-tubeleosis · « **on:** 3 Sep 2011, 07:07 pm »

That's how confident I am in following the schematic. I saw the sticky on the V-2 and I'm sure (sorta sure) I could figure it out on my own without pictures, but a photo sure would be helpful.

It's still too hot to finish my cabinets, but I could at least get the networks done this weekend.

Thanks in advance.

The Ninja · « **Reply #1 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 07:44 pm »

I should have some photos for you. I'll see if I can track them down...

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #2 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 07:48 pm »

God Bless you. I'm skeerd!!!!

2bigears · « **Reply #3 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 07:49 pm »

i sure do ,,,, need your email and i can send one.... Pat

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #4 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 08:43 pm »

Quote from: 2bigears on 3 Sep 2011, 07:49 pm

i sure do ,,,, need your email and i can send one.... Pat

PM sent. I do appreciate it.

Larry

2bigears · « **Reply #5 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 08:53 pm »

put some in my gallery,but don't know where my gallery went ???? check main gallery i guess

2bigears · « **Reply #6 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 08:54 pm »

your puter rejected my mail....

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #7 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 09:00 pm »

Quote from: 2bigears on 3 Sep 2011, 08:54 pm

your puter rejected my mail....

Really?

Let me try rebooting modem. Maybe that's it. I'll check pm I sent you to make sure I didn't have a typo giving you my address.

2bigears · « **Reply #8 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 09:05 pm »

go to Gallery,,,, they should be there

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #9 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 09:25 pm »

That'll do it! Dumb question....Which one is the Jupiter replacing?

2bigears · « **Reply #10 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 09:28 pm »

no idea....Danny built these....glad you got the visual....

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #11 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 09:40 pm »

Quote from: 2bigears on 3 Sep 2011, 09:28 pm

no idea....Danny built these....glad you got the visual....

I'm pretty sure I have it now. That photo helps a lot. My dry run layout looked quite different.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #12 on:** 3 Sep 2011, 09:59 pm »

Now I'm really worried. This must be some kind of upgrade. I took a closer look just now for comparison and realized this one has parts in it that I don't have. The photo shows five inductors. I have four. The large green one I thought was just another color of my largest one the 3.6mH. Then I realized the 3.6mH was also in the photo.

my schematic lists 3.6, 1.5, .56, and .15mH inductors. I wonder If I'm missing something or was yours custom?

Jonathon Janusz · « **Reply #13 on:** 4 Sep 2011, 01:47 am »

The pictured crossover with the Jupiter cap is a recent revision done by Danny. It changes the value of one of the caps and adds an inductor. See here:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=97070.0

Danny Richie · « **Reply #14 on:** 4 Sep 2011, 02:06 am »

I just got in from a visit to see Gary Dodd, and I see you guys have him well taken care of.

I just built out another set of crossovers and can take more pics if you need them.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #15 on:** 4 Sep 2011, 03:30 pm »

Thanks Danny. I think I have them roughed out ok, but I'm confused how the wiring connects up to everything. According to what I'm seeing from the schematic there are parts where the negative wire and the positive wire connects to some of the same ends of the same parts. Am I reading that right?

For example, it shows the 1.5mH one end connects to a negative wire, the 2.0 ohm resistor, and the positive wire which then connects to the tweeter positive. Am I reading that right?

I did the OB-5's and this one seems more complicated to me or I'm getting dumber as I get older.

mono-tubeleosis · « **Reply #16 on:** 4 Sep 2011, 03:38 pm »

Anyway, a couple of good photo's showing everything without the cap/inductor upgrade would be very helpful. Did the upgrade completely change the layout or was it just spliced into one spot along the way into the original layout?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #17 on:** 4 Sep 2011, 07:05 pm »

Quote from: mono-tubeleosis on 4 Sep 2011, 03:30 pm

Thanks Danny. I think I have them roughed out ok, but I'm confused how the wiring connects up to everything. According to what I'm seeing from the schematic there are parts where the negative wire and the positive wire connects to some of the same ends of the same parts. Am I reading that right?

For example, it shows the 1.5mH one end connects to a negative wire, the 2.0 ohm resistor, and the positive wire which then connects to the tweeter positive. Am I reading that right?

I did the OB-5's and this one seems more complicated to me or I'm getting dumber as I get older.

Just wire them as per the diagram.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #18 on:** 4 Sep 2011, 07:06 pm »

Quote from: mono-tubeleosis on 4 Sep 2011, 03:38 pm

Anyway, a couple of good photo's showing everything without the cap/inductor upgrade would be very helpful. Did the upgrade completely change the layout or was it just spliced into one spot along the way into the original layout?

Layout look can vary a lot.

The latest Jupiter cap upgrade really doesn't change the way I would lay it out other then added that small inductor to the end of the woofer circuit.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #19 on:** 5 Sep 2011, 04:00 am »

Quote

Ok, here is the rough layout and another picture indicating where I think the wiring goes. green circles indicate where wire connects to parts.

You added an extra wire that is not in the circuit diagram. Where you drew those top two Green circles you added a white wire to connect them that does not belong there. Check the supplied wiring diagram.

Quote

The positive that connects to one side of the 3.6mH, I'm not sure where it connects on the other end of that wire. I think it goes back to the Positive where the Mills 5ohm and 12UF connect.

I am not sure I follow you question, but again, look at the wiring diagram. All of this is clearly laid out.

Quote

The other end of the Negative wire that connects to the 1.5mH inductor and the 2.0 ohm resistor, I assume connects to the .56mH at the end where it connects to the 15uF (which leads back to the negative source). Not sure

All of those parts connect to a negative leg. If you can hang in there for a day or two then I will post pics of the pair that I am building.

Quote

I believe I'm supposed to run a continuous negative wire from the source

There is no sense in cutting and splicing it if it is not necessary.