[azryan]

"-Whatever flaw I developed, I hope to cover with the veneer.-"

Oh yeah! A 'real' do it yourselfer HAS to write some crazy @#$@ on the cabinets before adding veneer. If you don't you'll never be able to live with the regret you'll feel.

Oh... and I think you guys are abusing the use of animated faces. heheh

"-For instance the tweeter recess. Should I construct a large template and use a guide w/ a 3/4" bit so the four corners work out? Or, I'm tempted to try and make a "one tweeter at a time" template so I'll get the little corner sniglets between each set of tweeters. Yea, I know its crazy to even try and do that, but I think it'd give it a very professional look.-"

I'd say don't bother making a template for either. I cut the recess for the outer neo edge in one big line using a clamped off straight edge.

Then measure the 'actual' neo's width and then measure that from the actual outer recess line you just cut. That way it'll be dead on flush for sure.

I wouldn't trust a template. Too many indirect measurment steps.

Clamp off the straight edge for the inner neo recess edge and just to be safe make it a hair too narrow.

Then check it with an actual neo. If it won't quite fit you can probably eyeball how far it's off.
check at the very top of the line AND at the very bottom of the line to be sure the tops not too narrow but the bottom's just right or anything.

When you get that done if you paint the MDF recess matte black before you put in the neos the whole line will look matte black. It'll look totally professional and nice that it's like one solid line, not actually made up of 'bits'.

Hope that makes sense?

Good luck to the both of you guys! Lookin' killer so far.

[Snegrah]

Update.....injury.....hurt my back lifting the assembled bases with double bottoms attached.  I reached over the table and lifted them away from my body.    Ouch!  Speakers boxes are done though...kinda...gotta buzz em' and make em' ready for veneer or paint.

Just got the parts!  YIPPIE!  Didn't open all the boxes so this question may be premature but, there are four pairs of wires coming off the Xover...and they go where?  The only diagram I saw was how to wire the speakers.  

Ouch..there goes the back again.  

[azryan]

"-hurt my back lifting the assembled bases with double bottoms attached.-"

Yikes! Do you mean just the base and cabinet bottom -as in not connected to the whole rest of the cabinet?

"-gotta buzz em' and make em' ready for veneer or paint. -"

What's buzzing 'em?

Didn't decide how to finish 'em yet?
What's your room look like (colors/style)? That might be a good way to decide what your Alphas should look like to fit nice in the room.

I say make 'em gloss black though. Why? uh... 'cuz I want to see 'em in gloss black! heh. Not such a great reason eh?

"-there are four pairs of wires coming off the Xover...and they go where?-"

Into your amp. I'm sorry. I couldn't help myself. heh

"-The only diagram I saw was how to wire the speakers.-"

I'm not sure what you're asking?

I 'think' what you're talking about is the 4 wires off the amp end of the x-over (as opposed to the woofer/neo end of the x-over).

Those would go to the back of two sets of binding posts per cabinet. Pos/Neg wire for the Neos and Pos/Neg. for the woofers= 4 wires.

Maybe you mean something else though??

Wiring the drivers up and to the x-over is pretty much like a very adult game of connect the dots.
It's not hard and the drawing Danny sends is simple but plenty clear to follow IMO, but of course.... make SURE you connect the dots correctly.

Good luck. At least you broke your back near the end of the project? That's kinda goodish news eh?

[Snegrah]

azryan:
Just the bases connected to the two interior bottoms = 5 pieces of MDF.  They were not connected to the cabinet.  When picking them up away from your body it puts a little strain on the back.

Buzz em' means sanding with an obital sander.

I'm starting to short circuit....want to finish.  May just paint for now.  I don't know.....To do gloss black they need to be flawless from the beginning....uh means more sanding and sanding and sanding = DUST.

The four sets of wires thing - unless there are more instructions, I only see a diagram on how to wire up the speakers which, looks understandable but, where does the 4 sets of wires from each Xover go?  I should open all three boxes to see if there is more information.

Hell, I'll go downstairs and see if there is anything else....wait...... my wife is home....she still doesn't know about these yet.  I gotta be stealth.

Wish me luck.

[Snegrah]

OK, now that I've read the wiring diagram, I have a much better idea...I think.  The next mind crunch is how to use the Mills resistors.  Danny will be getting a call soon.

[azryan]

Yeah, gotta be dead perfect to go gloss black. Danny rec. Bondo to me for any little flubs in the surface. I didn't end up uding any but that should be pretty easy to get it totally smooth.

I don't know about painting it and then later veneering it. That just seems like it wouldn't work maybe that well, and really a big hassle I'd think to take apart the drivers to veneer the thing.

I'd just do what you really want it to be right now. You've gotten so much done so fast, would it be that tough to wait for veneer? Should only take a few hours to put it on.

As for the 4 wires on the wiring diagram. I'm looking at it right now and it should be pretty clear how they connect to the binding posts. Pos/Min for woofer and Neos.

Do you mean the binding post side or the woffer/neo side.
'Cuz the woofer/neo side has more that 4 wires coming off the x-over but that all attach as at the same 4 points on the wiring dia.

Maybe the pic you have is diff. if you have the adjustable bass loading parts on it?

I drew a picture of the x-over just to double check it w/ Danny. He said it was right. I could see if I could rescan it and send it to you.

[Snegrah]

azryan:
You're right!  It will be a hassle to veneer them later.  I did do these rather quickly so far and I will take my time to finish properly!   There, I feel better!  

If only I can figure out the drawings.    It would be great if you sent me your drawing - thanks!

You should be GR Research's psychologist!  

[Snegrah]

Yes, I'm still in the process of building these .  Thought it would go much faster but since I got them home, my time isn't as free as whenI am at work.  Sounds strange but true.

If you recall, I'm the one who's wife has no idea about these things so I gotta work in the garage "incognito".  Well, everything was going pretty smooth.  When she would come home from an outing, I'd be in the garage working on them and when the garage door started to open, I would turn off the lights in my shop (in the garage) meet her halfway between the car and the entrance to the house.  I would assist her carring whatever she needed into the house.  One day she sees me sneak downstairs with the clothes "iron".  She asks me what am I doing with the iron...."Uh...just doing something with a project."  Nothing more said.  Whew!  That was two days ago.
 
Last nite she comes down stairs without me hearing her and asks me something while I'm working on the horizontal Alpha.  I was cutting the veneer inside the last speaker hole.  I answer whatever she asked and she went upstairs.  Nothing said!  Whew again....I thought.  Three minutes later she realized the "project" I was working on and she comes back down and said, "WHAT ARE THOSE THINGS?  I HOPE THEY'RE PLANTER BOXES OF SOME SORT!  DON'T TELL ME THEY'RE GOING IN THE FAMILY ROOM!  I LIKE THE ONES THAT ARE IN THERE NOW!

Her birthday is this month and I told her they were for her.  I show her a sample of a oiled Padauk finish and told how beautiful it would work with our room.  I tried everything.  Other things were said (all in good humor) and eventually they were accepted!  

So, I've got a wonderful wife!  We've been married 30 years (this September).  Wait until she sees what I'm making for her then!  Subs?

Now back to the techical part.  This was the first time I veneered anything.  It was fairly easy.  I used "glue sheets" between the veneer and cabinet.  Just iron the veneer and it melts the glue to both surfaces.  Cant see a seam anywhere!

I painted the speaker recesses black - thanks azryan.

The BH5 is rather stiff to work with but after speaking with Danny I have a better idea of how it should be done.

Danny:  I have not yet installed the two bottoms of the cabinet.  I assume the Xover is to be mounted on the bottom and then the bottom  installed.  Otherwise the Xover cannot be installed in the cabinet. Right?

Gotta go, the wife is coming.....wait, I don't have to worry about that anymore!  

[JoshK]

I totally understand your desire to have wanted to keep it on the downlow.  Funny thing about women, they care how the FR/LR looks.  

I think I've decided to build my sub for the LR into an Otteman (sic).  Since we live near the garment district where nearly all fabrics can be sourced inexpensively and my wife can sow, I figured I would leverage her skills together with my building ability to make a sub for the LR that is both functional, decor friendly and unseen.  

If my wife will have it, we will have a coffee table sized otteman instead of a coffee table.  They are more comfortable to put your feet on anyway and that should provide sufficient room for a nice big sub!

[Marbles]

and you'll get a nice foot massage during the movie!!!

[Danny Richie]

Danny: I have not yet installed the two bottoms of the cabinet. I assume the Xover is to be mounted on the bottom and then the bottom installed. Otherwise the Xover cannot be installed in the cabinet. Right?

You can mount the crossover on a small board and slide it right through the lower woofer hole if you like.

That way you can go ahead and assemble the bottom of the box.

[Hank]

Wait until she sees what I'm making for her then! Subs?

Ahh...that would be pushing your luck to the edge.  I think September would be a good month for you to visit the jewelry store.
You boys are sure having fun building those Alpha's!

[Snegrah]

But Danny, that means I gotta take the Xover you built apart and start over!  Shit!  It just dawned on me that the box is veneered!  The only way to install the bottoms now is with Gorilla Glue ---lots of it.

Can I cut the wire ties you used and screw the Xover board to the bottom?

[Danny Richie]

Oh yea, I assembled a network for you.

That may not fit through the woofer holes.

If you have not put the bottom of the box in then attach the network to the bottom and put the bottom in. Ah, unless your talking about the base.

Do this.

Take a jig saw and cut it through the middle separating the tweeter circuit from the woofer circuit and put it in through the lower woofer hole in two pieces.

Then it will fit.

[Snegrah]

Gentlepersons:

I got em' up and running!  First impression - soft, constricted and "in your face".  #2, #4 and #9 ribbons on one speaker weren't working.  I laid it down (OUCH) and removed all the ribbons - to see if anything was wired wrong - it wasn't.  But all of a sudden they all worked so I reinstalled them and lifted it back into position (OUCH).

After about an hour with the CD going round n' round, I came back and things started to open up.  They are different than anything I've had but have similar good aspects of what I've had as well.  

What I'm not used to is this hugh wall of sound.  The wall at first was narrow but is opening up getting wider.  These are very efficient and effortless.

The low bass is barely audible though.  I can hear it if I listen for it.  The mid's are right there and the highs are "right".  They have plenty of "punch" for a new speaker and will probably have more when broken in.

I've only played a couple of CD's so I do not a lot of time with them yet.  Once they're more broken in, I will chime back in.

Danny, I have NO resistors in the bass management.  The low bass is weak.  Will the resistors help this?

The wife is "glaring" at me thinking she's been hoodwinked.  These are very LARGE compared to the Orions but not as LARGE as the VMPS I had.

Oh well......

[Danny Richie]

Danny, I have NO resistors in the bass management. The low bass is weak. Will the resistors help this?

Did you hook up the inductor in the bass management without a resistor?

This will by-pass most of your bass.

Take out the inductor!

[Snegrah]

Danny:
I reinstalled my elecronics and am using Kimber Select 1030 interconnects with Anaylsis Plus Oval 9 speaker wire.  PS Audio HCA-2 amp, Muse Thalia CD, Muse Model 3 Signature pre.  I took the other speakers out of the room.

I am able to place the Alphas closer to the front wall than the Orions which, required that they be 48" from the front wall.  This freed up more floor space for the stereo "environment" which is good WAF.    

These things sound awesome!    I might even put in the resistors to limit the bass!  With everything installed more as it should be the bass has opened up and gotten deeper.  They can be played loud effortlessly with no hint of strain or distortion.  They are fast and the bass notes can be followed - not just "thump- thump". With chorals, individual voices can be picked out.  Each listenening session gets better and better - still breaking in.  

I will miss my best speaker to date, the Orions,   but am pleased with their replacement.  I will find another room to put the Orions in, I hope or.....sell them.   ANOTHER thing my wife doesn't know about....here we go again.  

[azryan]

Great! You'll have to link some pics of the final result.

Glad you got that bass prob. worked out. When you first said no bass I was thinking 'huh??'.
The planars will break in pretty quick, but give the woofers time to really soften up.
Unlike other speakers you can play loud and the drivers will be really pumping and loosening up fast, it's terribly hard to get the whole line of Alpha woofers to work hard at all.

That's great in the long run, but initially make them slow to break in.

Over time the imaging and effortlessness will get even better for you.

Congrats.

[Danny Richie]

There is also a way to limit the bass impact and room gain yet still allow the very bottom end 60Hz and down or so to stay in tack by adding a 550uF capacitor bundle in there along with whatever resistor value you decide is best for your room.

The bottom end is very adjustable.

I am glad to hear that they have burned in enough and loosened up enough that the bottom end has started picking up for you.

[goskers]

Hi Tom,

Could you provide updates of the breakin period as you have time?

I am specifically interested in the comparison to your last pair of loudspeakers.

Thanks