[rcag_ils]

Any resources for getting a anti skate weight? Info appreciated.

[Wayner]

How about a lead fishing line sinker? They come in various weights.

Wayner

[Doublej]

The Needle Doctor?

[bregez]

Any info on the type of weight?  Wayner helped me with the missing weight on my table with some pictures.  I searched all over for a replacement and decided it was a DIY project.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=88031.0

Brad

[decal]

How about a lead fishing line sinker? They come in various weights.

Wayner

Just make sure it's an audiophool approved, cryo treated sinker. They "sound" much better!!!!   

[Bear]

I may have a anti-skate weight for a poject debut iii, if this would help you?

[rcag_ils]

I thought about Wayne's idea of a lead sinker, but it wouldn't look good and it's lead. It's for a MAS tonearm and I have no idea what the weigh supposed to be for this type of arm.

What is the common value for the anti- skate, if there's such thing?

Also, any source for a 5 pin Din female connector for the tonearm cable? The right + is open on this one. Or any suggestion on how to open this one up for repair?

[bregez]

It's for a MAS tonearm

So I am assuming it is a "pendulum" type anti skate setup.  The easy option would be go to a hobby store and get some brass beads.  The more difficult option would be go to the hardware store and buy a chromed steel ball bearing (vary in size from a 1/16" up to around 1", it all depends on what weight you want) and drill a hole through it.  Bearings use hardened steel so this task will require a drill press and lots of cutting lubricant.  Stay away from the stainless steel type bearings, they will be more difficult to drill.

Brad

[Elizabeth]

Why drill? (drilling a ball bearing must be the toughest task i can imagine!) you could just use a basket like device to carry the bearing. My magnepan Unitrac had a little plastic bucket filled with tiny shot for the antiskate! (it even came with a sheet of sticky 'tops' to cover the bucket with)
Try a tiny thimble. Metal you could drill some holes to run a thread.
THEN you could experiment with any sort of weights into the bucket.
I have seen miniature thimbles (for children?)
A tiny button from a switch, hollow, drill two tiny holes, then it is a bucket too.
All sorts of things..
If you could learn the exact weight, cut a bit of brass (solid) tube, drill one end, polish.. Start out too heavy. Then you can file off bits until it is perfect.
The end of a clothes hanger. Some have little rubber caps, Plastic caps. that a cap could hold a bit of brass rod.
Then you just pierce the base of the cap, thread it and knot it insde the cap. then you can stick various brass rod bits into the cap and experiment with the weight.

[rcag_ils]

I got it, I may just hang a 8/32 hex nut on it, what the hell, it wouldn't be the best looking anti skate weight though. I am making this way too complicated than what it really is, all I need is some weigh like 3.5 g, right.

Now how do I open the molded 5 pin DIN female connector so I can fix that open connection without destroying the damn thing.

You guys are great.

[bregez]

Now how do I open the molded 5 pin DIN female connector

A picture would be helpful to identify the connector.   Most of them if you slide the boot back there will be a couple of plastic snap type fasteners.  Use a screwdriver to disengage the fasteners and the cover will come off in two pieces to reveal the connectors inside.   If it truely is a molded connector then you are out of luck.  Just cut the wire and buy a new connector at Mouser, Digikey, Allied, etc...

Brad

[orthobiz]

Washers. Add 1 at a time as needed.

Paul

[rcag_ils]

If it truely is a molded connector then you are out of luck.  Just cut the wire and buy a new connector at Mouser, Digikey, Allied, etc...

I guess I could post a pic later, but it's molded onto the cable as one piece, like one of those Linn, or Grace type 5 pin DIN cable.

Such plug in type connector doesn't exist in Mouser, or Digikey catalog, the only place may have these would be Carda, and they are like $55.00 a piece.

[Ericus Rex]

What I've seen is a lead fishing weight on a string with a cover over it to make it look nice.  This particular arm had a nice piece of aluminum machined for the cover but anything could work.  Just find a small cylinder of something with an enclosed end (think 35mm film case but much smaller), then drill a hole in the center of the end for the string to go through.  Can you picture what I'm talking about?

[bregez]

Didn't the old IBM AT type keyboards use the same connector?  If so you can buy a keyboard extension cable and tear it apart for the connector.  I just saw one online for $1.64.
Also, check out switchcraft in Chicago.  Are you looking for something similar to:
Mouser Part # 502-06EL5F

Brad

[lcrim]

Check out the SME SeriesIII tonearm.  I had one that the previous owner had removed the antiskate apparatus from before i got it.  Here's a picture.




Try http://flatearthaudio.com/ for parts.  You could adapt this to your tonearm w/  a little ingenuity.

Larry

[neobop]

Here's a high quality straight plug for $25.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/accessories_1877.html

If you want to try to fix the moulded plug, cut into it with a razor knife near the offending socket. Remove the bits of plastic on the way. See if you can expose the wire without destroying it. This might be an exercise in futility. Even if you can do this it might be impossible to solder without melting the surrounding plastic.

Most anti-skate weights are around 4 to 5g I believe.
Regards,
neo

[rcag_ils]

If you want to try to fix the moulded plug, cut into it with a razor knife near the offending socket. Remove the bits of plastic on the way. See if you can expose the wire without destroying it. This might be an exercise in futility. Even if you can do this it might be impossible to solder without melting the surrounding plastic.

Most anti-skate weights are around 4 to 5g I believe.

Yes, you are exactly right. I performed many "mission impossible" type repair before, but this one is too much, the connector is basically sealed. The situation is when I clipped the meter leads on each end, it was a definite "open", but when I twisted any part of the cable as a whole, sometimes I got intermittent continuity, I can't imagine the cable itself would be bad. The amount of time for repairing this should be spent on putting on a new connector after verifying the cable is still good. Thanks for the tip for a $25.00 connector, it's not Cardas, but what the hell.

The musicdirect or one of those vinyl sites sell the mmf anti-skate weight for $10.00, I may get that if I want good look, but a couple of stainless steel washer will do. Now I need to find the small fine nylon string to tie the weight onto.

[rcag_ils]

Didn't the old IBM AT type keyboards use the same connector?  If so you can buy a keyboard extension cable and tear it apart for the connector.  I just saw one online for $1.64.
Also, check out switchcraft in Chicago.  Are you looking for something similar to:
Mouser Part # 502-06EL5F

Brad

No, the one Mouser has is a 35 degree pattern, I need a 60 degree pattern without shell, and a 7/16" diameter push-pull.

[Ericus Rex]

Now I need to find the small fine nylon string to tie the weight onto.

Fishing line or sewing thread