[slovell1]

Is there anything I should know about setting up and using this table beforehand? I have a Denon DL-301mkII and an Audio technica AT-33EV already on hand and I'm wondering how either of these LOMC's will match up with the Scout's JMW-9 Memorial arm.
Regards, Sam

[Photon46]

The most important advice I could give from my time with a Scout is that achieve the best sound from this table, you must set it up on a good platform. That could be a maple plinth or a Ginko platform, other possibilities exist I'm sure. If it just rests on something like a shelf of mdf or glass, you'll never hear how good it can sound.

[slovell1]

Thanks for the reply,
I've also read that they need good isolation. I'm sure I'll be working on that when I get it, I have a few ideas that I'll try.
Regards, Sam

[neobop]

You shouldn't have any problem with either of those carts. I saw the replies you got on Audiogon - take them with a grain of salt. The compliance of those Japanese carts is spec @100Hz. 10Hz compliance will be higher.

The isolation advise applies to any cart. Enjoy your new TT.
Regards,
neo

[slovell1]

Thanks Neo,
Those guys on Audiogon have a tendency to get waaayy too technical for me. IMHO, they'll either sound good or they won't on the Scout's arm. Personally, I feel that if they sounded good on my JVC QL-Y66F's arm they should sound great on the JMW-9.
Regards, Sam

[slovell1]

If I use a maple plinth, would it be better to use adjustable spikes on the bottom so I can level the plinth itself and not have to use the leveling spikes on the turntable base? I've read that one should avoid moving the Scout's spikes if possible. Or would it be better to use sorbathane isolation balls on the bottom of the maple plinth and use the Scout's spikes to level the table? It would be difficult to get my rack stand perfectly level.
Thanks, Sam

[Photon46]

You'll have to factor in the degree to which your rack/floor deviates from a horizontal even plane. If your situation is like mine, I need the adjustability threaded feet provide my plinth. I installed threaded brass inserts for 1/4" x 20 threads in the base of the plinth and then used brass rod into Black Diamond Racing carbon fiber cones. I experimented with adjusting feet of the turntable vs. the feet of the plinth and I can't say if they sounded different. The phono preamp and cartridge I was using at the time wasn't as resolving as what I use now, so that could have been a factor too. As others felt that it was a detriment to sound quality to unscrew the Scout's feet, I left them tightened as the come from the factory. I've also wondered about further isolation by using some of Herbie's Audio Lab products under the tip of the adjustable spike on the plinth. It wouldn't surprise me if this provides additional benefits to the Scout. My current turntable weighs a lot more than the Scout and it's seems more isolated from environmental feedback because of it's mass.

I'm sure you can see a couple products here that would work in conjunction with a set up like we're discussing:  http://herbiesaudiolab.net/spkrfeet.htm

[steveblezy]

I also have a scout as my second TT. Absolutely love it. Great value for the dollar. Just remember that your uni-pivot arm 'essentially' uses gravity for its vertical alignment (azimuth). Make sure that what ever you have the table sitting on is solid and in the position that you want before you set up your azimuth. If you move the rack/table/shelf, the azimuth will now change. Other than that, it is a great table. Enjoy.

Steve

[lofreek]

I used a Scout for years and I was very happy with it. Here are a couple of observations - the arm requires much patience to adjust, and it seems to sound better when on a maple board as opposed to MDF.

[bside123]

I also have a scout as my second TT. Absolutely love it. Great value for the dollar. Just remember that your uni-pivot arm 'essentially' uses gravity for its vertical alignment (azimuth). Make sure that what ever you have the table sitting on is solid and in the position that you want before you set up your azimuth. If you move the rack/table/shelf, the azimuth will now change. Other than that, it is a great table. Enjoy. Steve

In addition to my reference turntable, I also have a VPI Scout operating in a second system. All together, I have 3 TTs. However, I've been extremely impressed with the Scout... for what it is. To echo a few points already made: 1) Take your time and use extreme care in setting up the tonearm and cartridge. Don't short cut! "That oughta be good enough," has NO place in setting up the unipivot tonearm. Take the time to do it right, and don't get impatient. 2) Good isolation. Mine is on a 3" maple board that is also on a granite shelf in a rack which is also isolated from the floor. I am also using the VPI HRX feet NOT the cones that came with table. 3) Good interconnects and grounding. 4) Good isolation of the motor, I found also makes an audible difference. 5) Motor controller such as the SDS.

Lot's of great music and good sounds coming from that little Scout! Enjoy yours and spin some records! 

[slovell1]

I have a set of four adjustable spikes with removable studs. I'm thinking about removing the studs and using some fairly thick, dense, very sticky two-sided tape to mount them on the underside of the maple block. Seems to me this method would decouple the spikes from the block somewhat. It might be a small improvement, maybe not, its worth a try. Can the Pro-Ject speed control boxes be used with the Scout?
Regards, Sam

[neobop]

If you mount the spikes in that way it will mass couple the maple block to whatever you have supporting it. You might want to try it the other way around with the flat side of the cones facing down and the maple block supported by the points. That way you're decoupling the maple block from the support.
Regards,
neo

[slovell1]

OK, that makes sense and its easy enough to do.
Sam

[neobop]

Slovell,
Looking back on this thread I see you have the TT on top of a rack. I strongly suggest considering either a wall shelf or a sturdy end table for support. I use each of these in different rooms and I think you'll be pleased with results with either. There are threads here on setting these up, but if you want some practical advise just say the word. It doesn't have to be an expensive endeavor.
Regards,
neo

[Wayner]

All points do is create a greater "pounds per square inch" value. They do not stop wavelength transmission. That is accomplished by a elastomers or plasticlay, things that simply go plop or thud when you hit them. A constraint layer will also do this. The elastomers will take wave length energy and turn it into heat.

Sony and other TT manufacturers actually supplied "jell" feet on their tables to reduce resonance and vibration feedback from entering/re-entering the turntable.

Since the VPI is already a heavy turntable, the cones are OK as they make the weight of the turntable seem like more to the surface they are on, assuming that that surface is rigid to begin with. Your turntable base needs to be flat, straight and solid. Also adjusting the cone feet of the table to level it will affect the way the belt rides on the pulley (and perhaps the platter), as it will be twisting to a non-concentric union of motor and platter.

You wouldn't build a house on a poor, crooked foundation, would you? So the basic rules for a turntable perch is solid, flat and isolated (thru mass or elastomers).

Wayner 

[slovell1]

Thanks Wayner,
If I'm understanding you correctly I'll need to level the maple base and leave the leveling spikes on the Scout alone. I like the idea of a wall shelf which I might try later on. I already have the 20" X 15" X 3" maple block on hand so I'm starting with that.
Thanks, Sam

[Wayner]

You can easily make one:

 

 

Made from some oak 1 X 3s, glued and screwed together. Make the base about 3-4" bigger then the footprint of your table (including the SAMA), and lag bolt it to the wall (16" on center), using 3/8" lag bolts, same for the top piece. Then use cable or chain to keep the wall bracket from bowing down from the weight. You could also incorporate a slight uptilt to the wall shelf, so that when weight is applied, it sags to "level".

You could use wider underneath support pieces, like 1 X 6 and make a nice angled cut (to make it perdy), and could probably eliminate the top piece and chain all together. Mine was "slapped" together, just to have a perch for the Technics, out in the garage.

Probably could build one for $25-30.

Wayner