Need some more info on the V-2

jrebman · « **on:** 6 Jun 2011, 03:08 pm »

Folks,

I've been seriously considering the V-2 for a little while now and have decided to go ahead and buy the kits from Danny today.

I happen to be blind so can't see the pics or drawings, but had a friend over yesterday who went over the cabinet plans with me, and I'm still trying to decide if I'll make the cabinets myself or get Rubin's flat pack while it too is on sale. I've had brief contact with Rubin and hope to hear more from him soon and then I'll make up my mind on which way to go. One real advantage that Rubin's flat packs have is that I'll definitely be up and running a lot sooner, especially since he lives fairly close by and I can go pick the flat packs up directly from his shop.

I still have some questions on how and where to mount the sub amps -- these will be going in our living room, so WAF is high on the requirements list, which translates into the amps being built into the speaker somehow and minimizing the clutter of wires, boxes, etc. Has anybody done this, or is this even the way the speakers are designed and meant to be built?

Also, do or have people cover the front of the sub compartment with grille cloth to keep the visible mechanical parts to a minimum?

Is there anything else that I need to be aware of and/or things I may want to consider?

I've been considering many speaker alternatives for my living room -- everything from lowther based horns, to my current two-ways, to other high-efficiency alternatives from klipsch, altec, etc. but I kept coming back to what I heard at RMAF last year with the Super-Vs, but didn't want to spend that much or have something quite that large in our small space, and then I learned about the V-2 and it meets all my requirements for size, aesthetics, SET-friendly, and full range with great dynamics and soundstaging.

Anyway, any advice, hints, tips, etc. are welcome and appreciated. I've read through many of the V-2 related posts and it seems that this isreally a great way for me to go, given all the criteria above.

Thanks,

Jim

ebag4 · « **Reply #1 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 03:19 pm »

Hi Jim,
I can answer a couple of those questions for you.

With regard to building the amp into the speaker, Tasar (Dave) built the amp into the rear lower sub floor of his SuperVs, it seems to have worked out well. However the amp and speaker housings for the V2 are different from the SuperV so I guess I can't really answer this for you, just know that it has been done on the SuperV.

edit- With the sub drivers mounted at 45 degrees in the V2 I believe it will be a real challange to mount the amp in the floor, you would need to extend the length of the cabinet to accomodate the amp.

With regard to the sub compartment with grill cloth, I would say that this is the norm rather than the exception. I will mention that many have opted to leave the coaxial uncovered.

BTW, from what I have seen of Ruben's V2 work, the finishes and build quality have been outstanding, of course I am completely relying on pics, perhaps someone with first hand knowledge will chime in.

Good Luck!!

Ed

jrebman · « **Reply #2 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 03:27 pm »

Thanks, Ed. I would preferto leave the coax open anyway, so that's good.

I emailed Danny yesterday as well, as I'd like to know (as it seems others would too) what the status of the potential new crossover and upgrade to the 2" dipole tweeter is and that may determine when I place the order.

My wife also actually seems excited about this, so that's very encouraging.

Thanks for your help,

Jim

Tyson · « **Reply #3 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 05:28 pm »

I built the V2's and I'd definitely recommend getting the flat pack - the angled woofers make this a pretty challenging build for a DIY'er. I'd build the Super V's, which are more straightforward, but I wouldn't build the V2's again.

Also, there's no room to mount the amp in the V2's in any way I can see. Which is good, because otherwise you'd be stuck with a power cord coming out of each speaker, and IMO it looks better to keep the amp tucked away with your other audio equipment in a rack. And, the whole point of the V2 is that it's fairly small, and mounting an amp would add to it's visual bulk considerably.

The V2's only can fit a 1 inch tweeter, not the 2 inch tweeter. Essentially the V2 can use the V1 tweeters, which are 1 inch, and have the back plate removed. The tweeter of the V1 is simply a better quality tweeter, overall, and opening the back of it takes it to an even higher level. Only the Super V uses a 2 inch tweeter.

If you go with a flat pack, I recommend getting the side panels done if a material like Baltic Birch no-void plywood, rather than MDF, as it will add quite a bit of rigidity to the MDF core of the speaker. This translates into better clarity in the mids and punchier bass.

jrebman · « **Reply #4 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 09:30 pm »

Hi Tyson,

Thanks for the reply, and yes, I'm also starting to think keeping the sub amps on the rack may be the best idea after all.

As for the woodworking, I've been doing it for probably 45 years now and have access to a well equipped shop, but right now it's a matter of just getting things done.

I like the BB ply idea, and was considering that or hardwood over MDF. If I had unlimited time and money, I'd face-glue alternating strips of honduras mahogany and spruce -- either 3/8" x 7/8" or 1/2" x 1.25" -- as that would make an incredibly strong panel at a reasonable weight, but the BB ply will be fine.

Yes, I'm not going to fret about the tweeters right now (and perhaps ever) -- I'll just have to wait and listen. Maybe when Jason (Pez) comes up for a visit at some point in the future, you might want to come alonng too.

-- Jim

Tyson · « **Reply #5 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 09:41 pm »

Where are you at? I'd love to come by at some point

Also, you can start with the stock V2 tweeters and just upgrade later on to the V1 tweeters, once Danny has the passive crossover worked out. All you do is unscrew it from the back and then screw in the V1 tweeters, couldn't be easier.

jrebman · « **Reply #6 on:** 6 Jun 2011, 11:01 pm »

Tyson,

I'm up in North Boulder. Not exactly a bike ride away, but not too far either.

I think I understand a bit better about the tweeters no, but still, if I didn't have to ditch a tweeter and crossover it would be better, but it may end up being an addition to and some modification to, the existing crossover, so maybe it won't be all that painful a process.-- Jim

Tyson · « **Reply #7 on:** 7 Jun 2011, 12:15 am »

Of course, you could always go active! Requires an extra amp, but gives you a lot of flexibility and control. Personally I love the ability to contour the sound and fine tune it to my preferences.

If you decide to get them but stay passive, let me know cause I have the assembled crossovers here from my original build and I'd let them go on a good deal, if you are interested.

jrebman · « **Reply #8 on:** 9 Jun 2011, 02:01 am »

, so I really can't use the crossovers, but thanks for offering.

Just need to talk to Rubin now so I can get options and pricing and then things should be undeway.

-- Jim
Tyson,

Actually, the boxes of parts arrived today

jrebman · « **Reply #9 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 09:07 pm »

Ok, boxes got here last week -- just two days after I placed the order! I opened them today so I could grab a sample driver to take to Ruben this week and noticed that the coax driver is not delivered as a coax driver. The question is, do you have to do some surgery to the center cap to install the tweeter? It doesn't look hard to do or anything like that, but I can't read the printed instructions, so I don't know really how to go about this.

Danny, do you have a text file of the instructions you can send me? That seems like it would be pretty useful.

Thanks,

Jim

Tyson · « **Reply #10 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 09:49 pm »

Center of the 8 inch coax driver has a cover, that looks like a dust cap, but is actually just a grill-cloth that the tweeter fires through.

jrebman · « **Reply #11 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 09:57 pm »

Tyson,

Thanks. That should make it very easy.

-- Jim

Tyson · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 10:01 pm »

No, I'm saying that no surgery is necessary - the coax is there, and you can verify that by unscrewing the magnet on the back of the coax - the whole magnet assembly IS the tweeter.

jrebman · « **Reply #13 on:** 12 Jun 2011, 10:11 pm »

Ok, when I go back upstairs later I'll take a closer look (or feel, as the case may be.)

Thanks,

Jim

ebag4 · « **Reply #14 on:** 13 Jun 2011, 02:00 am »

Jim,
It may be that the V2 coax drivers are shipped differently than the V1, but the V1 coax was shipped in two pieces. The tweeter was in a separate box and had to be screwed onto the back of the coax.

Best,
Ed

Tyson · « **Reply #15 on:** 13 Jun 2011, 03:50 am »

In mine, they all came pre-assembled.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #16 on:** 13 Jun 2011, 04:54 am »

They are shipping the woofer and tweeter separately now to avoid shipping damage. The tweeter easily screws into the woofer. You'll see.

jrebman · « **Reply #17 on:** 13 Jun 2011, 09:26 pm »

Danny,

Yes, it's all very clear now that I've unpacked the box with all the smaller parts and the plate amps.

BTW, I'm really liking the feel of these tube connectors, but I have one question that I don't see mentioned in the instruction thread: how far into the tube should the plug go? Seems like the fit is plenty tight with about 1/8", give or take, from the body of the female part. It seems if I push it all the way in that I'll never get it out again.

Very slick gadgets though and I'm definitely going to order some for my other 2 speaker projects.

Thanks,

Jim

Danny Richie · « **Reply #18 on:** 13 Jun 2011, 09:40 pm »

Quote

BTW, I'm really liking the feel of these tube connectors, but I have one question that I don't see mentioned in the instruction thread: how far into the tube should the plug go? Seems like the fit is plenty tight with about 1/8", give or take, from the body of the female part. It seems if I push it all the way in that I'll never get it out again.

Push them in until they stop.

Yes, they are pretty slick aren't they.

jrebman · « **Reply #19 on:** 24 Jun 2011, 03:08 am »

Ok, Ruben dropped offf my flatpack today and about the only question I have right now ishow much no-rez do I need, and where exactly in the sub compartment should it go?

Very psyched to get this project underway now. Right now the tentative finishing plan is for the baffle and exposed lower portion of the sub cabinet to be painted black, the side panels veneered in raw maple and finished with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, and the split grilles are a very nice red.

This is one solidly massive speaker for one with such a small footprint. I can already tell that this is going to be a blast to build and even more of a blast to listen to when complete.

-- Jim