Chassis dampening. How to do it?

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vpolineni

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Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #40 on: 23 Apr 2004, 03:23 pm »
bubba, if my amp gets that hot, i wouldn't need a stove!  thanks for the input guys... if anyone wants to go in on a group order, let me know.

james_b

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Circuit City product
« Reply #41 on: 27 Jun 2004, 04:50 pm »
Circuit City sells Tsunami dampening pads cheaper than Dynamat, looks about the same, about $15 for two sheets of self adhesive 12" x 12" compared to $20 for Dynamat. And when picking up from your local CC, you don't have to pay for shipping either!

www.tsunami-autosound.com

zybar

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Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #42 on: 27 Jun 2004, 05:43 pm »
If you buy your Dynamat off e-bay it is even cheaper.

George

Jay S

Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #43 on: 28 Jun 2004, 12:33 am »
I'd be happy to join the group buy for Dynamat Extreme!  I'd like enough for 2 cd players.  I can send funds via PayPal.  

I didn't see this thread until today but I spent a couple of hours yesterday dampening the transport of my ancient (4 year old!) Toshiba 2109 dvd player with Blue Tak... and was really very pleasantly surprised at how big a difference it made!   :o

I initially focused on adding blue-tak to the top and bottom of the drawer where possible).  Then, for kicks I decided to fill in the depressions on the top of a "canopy" on top of the CD mechanism and drawer.  Good thing!  I realized that the disc, once loaded, is no longer in contact with the drawer and is pushed up against a round hub connected to the "canopy" (sorry, I can't think of a better description).  The canopy, once very flimsy and resonant, was quite "dead" after packing the top of it with blue-tak.   :D  

I also added small blobs of blue-tak on top of the clock crystal, every capacitor and every little encapsulated round thing (??) I could find.  Note, I used little bits, I didn't totally blanket the inside player with blue-tak.  

I also added a few strips of blue-tak to the top cover of the dvd player (so it would not ring so badly) and rearranged my 3 Tenderfeet so that 1 was in front under the transport, and 2 were in the back under the power supply and analog output, respectively.  

What remains to be done, I think, is to fully dampen the case.  I'd like to pay particular attention to the areas where adjoining pieces come in contact with each other, as well as the screw holes.  I didn't want to use blue-tak in these areas since it would have made it really hard to open up the case again!  Very thin rubber with adhesive on 1 side would be perfect for this application but I have no ideas at this point.

How does it sound?  Keep in mind that I am "only" using the Toshiba as a transport...

The sound was immediately very much improved.  Sound was much louder (I had to turn down the volume from my usual setting), dynamics were also improved.  I heard much more detail, a deeper and wider soundstage.  HF was more extended *and* refined.  And, the mid-range (a big issue for me when I switched from my Cary to my Toshiba) filled out a bit.  Yes, it was an across-the-board transformation.  You did not have to listen hard at all for this improvement.  I guess this is not surprising given how flimsy this player was inside.

I used a total of 2 packs of blue-tak.  It cost me about $5.  Time and money well spent if you ask me.

I have read online that one of the big advantages of an expensive cd player or transport is a more rigid chassis and greater attention to resonance.  Well, while my Blue-Tak'ed Toshiba is still no match, as a transport, as my former Cary 303 (a very solid 35 lb cd player!), it has closed the gap by maybe half (if it is even possible to quantify these things).  Also note that the Toshiba benefits from quite a bit of upstream power filtration/conditioning, which helps to reduce the advantage of the Cary's more sophisticated power supply.  

Anyway, I would love to take this to the next step by adding Dynamat Extreme to the case of my Toshiba.  The few strips of blue-tak on the top cover don't really do that much -- I would like the case to sound "dead" when I tap it.  Plus, the player sounds a bit noisy when playing some dvds.  Its odd -- its totally silent with cds and most dvds... but the dvd that I watched last night was so loud that I could hear it whirring from my listening position.  

Thanks,

- Jay

chino

Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #44 on: 28 Jun 2004, 04:21 am »
Hey count me in too I'll pay thru paypal. Im the one who posted this a looong time ago but I still havent got the chance to do anything! :oops: Im so lazy. Those dynamat are pricey and I'd like just enough to do one cdp. Like to try the blue tak thingy one day if I get around to it  :mrgreen:

Jay S

Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #45 on: 28 Jun 2004, 04:44 am »
Adding blue tak is not that hard -- I should have done it ages ago.  By the way, from what I heard rope caulk is better than blue tak -- it is much cheaper (esp if you plan to dampen the chassis/casing and is more neutral.  I would have used rope caulk if I could have found it in Hong Kong.

Jay S

Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #46 on: 28 Jun 2004, 05:27 am »
Has anyone tried Cascade Audio dampening sheets?  The VB-2 is made with rubber and vinyl (rather than rubber, asphalt and aluminum of Dynamat Extreme).  The maker claims similar or better dampening compared to asphast-based sheets.  www.full-line-audio.com sells a pack with 4.5 sq ft of VB-2 for $13.95.

The lack of aluminum may or may not be an advantage.  On the plus side, the aluminum would have shield the component from RFI/EMI (or keep it in so it doesn't contaminate other components).  On the other hand, there are those who feel that ERS (which helps block RFI/EMI) can sometimes hurt performance....

CptTripps

Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #47 on: 9 Jul 2004, 06:31 pm »
On my Pass-Labs X-1 Preamp, I noticed a Nice improvement when I did the pramp section, and a REDICULOUS difference when I did the external power supply. I attribute it mostly to the fact that now, the poser supply isn't 'contaminating' the CD Player that is on the shelf above it (which is on the ground.)

So maybe the aluminum has a better advantage to those of us with 2-chassis stuff than we'd thought.

Tonto Yoder

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Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #48 on: 9 Jul 2004, 08:44 pm »
Quote from: Jay S
Adding blue tak is not that hard -- I should have done it ages ago.  By the way, from what I heard rope caulk is better than blue tak -- it is much cheaper (esp if you plan to dampen the chassis/casing and is more neutral.  I would have used rope caulk if I could have found it in Hong Kong.

I've read some internet folk who discourage this idea: heat and time dry out the rope caulk/blu-tack and it loses its grip on the case. Makes sense to me, so maybe the Dynamat Extreme might be a better, if more expensive, permanent solution?

Gordy

Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #49 on: 9 Jul 2004, 09:08 pm »
I used both self adhesive lead tape and the rope caulk in my Sony cdr about a year ago.  The box claimed it stayed soft permanently, however, I'll check on it tomorrow.  I can't today as I'm off to a Cowboy Junkies concert  :mrgreen:   I'll report back tomale....

Gordy

Tonto Yoder

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Chassis dampening. How to do it?
« Reply #50 on: 9 Jul 2004, 09:31 pm »
Quote from: Gordy
I used both self adhesive lead tape and the rope caulk in my Sony cdr about a year ago.  The box claimed it stayed soft permanently, however, I'll check on it tomorrow.  I can't today as I'm off to a Cowboy Junkies concert  :mrgreen:   I'll report back tomale....

Gordy

Where's your priorities, man!!  Forget the concert and check out that damping.

Gordy

Rope caulk and commitment!
« Reply #51 on: 10 Jul 2004, 12:24 pm »
Hi All, The rope caulk seems to be every bit as soft and plyable as it was 10 or so months ago, no sign of any skin forming.  Keep in mind there are no tubes involved, especially power tube heat!

The Frost King brand that I use(d) is rated indoor/outdoor and 'will not dry or harden'.  I've also used alum. backed flashing repair tape, which is more convenient, but adds far less mass and is not removable so take care when applying!

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