[chino]

Hi guys!
I have a stock DVD963SA and I want to try doing some dampening myself. Can somebody explain step by step on how to do it the proper way, stuff to use, etc.?

[Tonto Yoder]

I thought the EVS website might have good info on damping electronics, but the info there is minimal.  I stumbled onto some interesting info dealing with the Cromolin strips--
http://hellosimplymusic.com/cvc-instructions.jpg
Haven't tried this particular stuff, so it's more of a heads-up than a recommendation.

What I used on the chassis of my cheap Pioneer DVD was Dynamat (intended mostly for cars to control vibrations--either from massive subwoofers/speakers or just normal noises of the road). It's self-adhesive material (bitumen I believe) so you just cut it to size and stick it inside the chassis.  The theory is similar to that of the Cromolin above.

A cheaper alternative is Peel 'n' Seal, an aluminum-backed product for sealing roofs that leak.  The actual damping comes from a rubbery material maybe  1/16 inch thick, also self-adhesive. Comes in a roll at Home Depot: the cheapest is maybe $15, but it's a roll long enough to damp ALL the elctronics in your neighborhood. Some care would have to be used since the aluminum backing would obviously conduct electricity.

Some tweakers like to damp the internal components of gear, but I don't have any experience there (other than putting damping rings on tubes).
Hope this gets you started.

[gary]

The home depot stuff worked great for me in my 963sa. And I got a role that was $8, half as wide as what you mentioned. It was a little sticky, and it'll definitely mess up the scissors you cut it with, but the end result was a much quieter player that I could no longer hear from my listening position.

-Gary

[chino]

Thanks guys. So basically just apply those to the inside top cover? Wouldnt it be a little hot inside if I do this... coz its like warm on top everytime and I dont want to mess up. I'll experiment tho. Might try that dynamat from car audio store.

[Tonto Yoder]

Thanks guys. So basically just apply those to the inside top cover? Wouldnt it be a little hot inside if I do this... coz its like warm on top everytime and I dont want to mess up. I'll experiment tho. Might try that dynamat from car audio store.

I put Dynamat on the sides of the chassis as well. Seems like there'd be a benefit to damping wherever the screws mount the chassis to the gear (maybe using Mor-Tite or Blu-Tack??)  

eBay is a decent place to get Dynamat--you might try to find whichever type that's intended for car hoods (to quiet engine noise) since that's obviously made to withstand heat.  Heat build-up COULD be a problem if your gear runs hot to start with--can you localize where the heat is and just not put damping there?? My own gear was fairly cool, so this wasn't really any issue for me.

[Robert C. Schult]

Hey Folks.

Duct Seal is also an excellent product to use. Dense, dead, sticks where you put it (assuming the surface is clean) and does a very fine job for lots of different audio applications. It's inexpensive and you should be able to find it at any commercial electrical warehouse geared to the building trades. Available in 1lb and 10lb "bricks".

Hope this helps and Good Luck!

[JoshK]

Just a thought guys, I think this is a very interesting thread, and I'm glad you guys started it, but wouldn't adding dampening to the inside of a chassis add heat insulation?  It probably is ok for many components, and as long as you didn't get too carried away wouldn't add too much heat insulation but it is something to think about when dampening.

[JoshK]

Looks like you guys already mentioned the heat issue.  I didn't read the whole thread first.    

I think we should talk about what has worked well and the issues of heat in this thread.

I read up on a few ideas for dampening and shielding my Spectron chassis since it is prone to EMI/RFI and vibration.  Some mentioned shielding the chassis with a mess like shield.  I would imagine this would still allow heat to escape with providing shielding.

Wonder if any of you experimented with mixing a combination of shielding and dampening materials on your chassis.

[vrs]

A friend of mine used copper foil and copper mesh- very thin  to shield the transformer.He says it works. He gave me one sheet. I have not tried it. It is very cheap . 4 sheets for 4-25 dollars 8 1/2-11 inches available from michael craft stores.
He plans to make some tubes to go around the power cords using, copper mesh, mu metal and ers cloth- make a small spiral of it placed in a pipe insulation foam.

[PhilNYC]

I've found putting some weight on top of the component to be very effective.  On my cdp, I just use some marble coasters that I picked up from Bed Bath and Beyond for $20.  If you want an "audiophile" product, the Heavy Hats from Mapleshade definitely work, too...

[bubba966]

I've used Dynamat Xtreme to dampen components with excellent results. The Dynamat Xtreme is the only product they make for use on underside applications (like the lid of your CDP), so don't bother with the Dynamat Original, TacMat, Dynaliner, etc. that Dynamat makes.

I've installed insane amounts of Dynamat Xtreme in a couple of computers. Didn't raise any of the temps at all.

As it's already been mentioned, eBay is the best place to buy Dynamat Xtreme. You can get it 50-60% cheaper if bought off eBay. I got a very large box of DX a few weeks ago for $95 that woulda cost me $250 if I bought it at a car audio shop.

As far as where to put DX, put it everywhere you can. Line the lid, line the sides, line the bottom if possible. And if you can find anywhere else to put it where it doesn't short anything out (the top layer of Dynamat Xtreme is Aluminum) or interfere with any moving parts.

[mcgsxr]

The advice around Dynamat products makes sense to me, I used some of it in my car last time I spend money on audio for wheels.

Putting heavy things on top of the unit seems to work also, but you need the space for it.  I have a piece of 3/4 mdf on my transport, with a sandbag on top of that.  The chassis noise is no longer an issue with that piece now, and it reversible, and cheap.

The head issue for Dynamat should not matter much either, in terms of IT being affected by heat - to apply it in my hatchback, I used a heatgun to get it to mold to all the curves and corners, so I know it resists heat well.



Mark

[randytsuch]

See this link
http://didnt.doit.wisc.edu/audio/CDP/cdp.html
for the "extreme" use of rope caulk for dampening a CDP.

I think he may have gone a little overboard, but I know EVS dampens caps and the transport with something like rope caulk.  I would apply it the the transport first, and see how that works.

Randy

[_scotty_]

I didn'y bother to damp my player internally at all. I do use 12.5lbs of sand on top, ERS paper inside,and tungsten carbide upgraded darumaclones underneath. It seems to be an effective combination.

[chino]

Many thanks all. I get the idea now. I think Id try the dynamat first.

[zybar]

Looks like I am going try the Dynamat Xtreme as well.

Guess first items ot try it on are DVD player and transport.

If that goes well, I will try preamp next.

George

[pjchappy]

Here's what I am doing right now. . .




p

[Andrew JC]

I checked Ebay but is there a place where you can get a small amount of Dynamat Extreme? Like for one CD player not 80!

[Tonto Yoder]

I checked Ebay but is there a place where you can get a small amount of Dynamat Extreme? Like for one CD player not 80!

Seems like the two sheet packs was about as small as they come--

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50552&item=3091586365&rd=1

2    10"  X  10" pieces.

You might call a local car stereo installer to see if they'd sell from their bulk roll by the foot???  Or maybe they'd sell their scrap cut-offs for cheap???

[Andrew JC]

Thanks for the help that one did not come up in my search.