Bryston SP1.7 Help!!!

Levi · « **on:** 27 Mar 2004, 06:25 am »

My SP1.7 will not turn on.

The LEDs and screen are all lit up

. It stays like this. Help!!!

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Horsehead · « **Reply #1 on:** 27 Mar 2004, 06:41 am »

Did you try powering it down, unplug the powercord from the IEC outlet, let sit a few minutes, plug everything back in, and turn back on? Sometimes components can get screwed up from a small static charge, etc, and need to reset internally. Wish I could help you more.

Levi · « **Reply #2 on:** 27 Mar 2004, 02:44 pm »

I unplugged the power cord and used the main switch. I still see all the LED lit up.

I think my SP1.7 died.

jethro · « **Reply #3 on:** 27 Mar 2004, 02:48 pm »

I would disconnect the powercord like the previous poster suggested, however, I would also disconnect everything else and pull it from your rack. I would power it up with nothing connected and write down (and post) the exact text that gets displayed on the LCD panel and any other strange behaviour such as clicking noises.

If the unit still doesn't pass the POST I would contact Bryston sevice and send them the information that you recorded.

If it does pass the POST and looks normal, then I would start reconnecting gear, one piece at a time.

jethro · « **Reply #4 on:** 27 Mar 2004, 02:56 pm »

Levi,

I missed your previous thread about the POST not passing. No offense intended because I don't know your familarity with DSP's, but if you have been switching PROMs, are you sure you have the EPROM oriented correctly and have you been grounding yourself to the chassis or power supply (touch it with one hand) with the unit plugged into the wall when working on the SP-1.7 ?

If you see any non-garbled text on the display at powerup, then the PROM is installed correctly.

Levi · « **Reply #5 on:** 27 Mar 2004, 04:18 pm »

Hey there,

February 2004 - SP1.7 starts glitching. Will not respond to remote. Does not display correct format.

March 24, 2004 - SP1.7 will not power up or will not respond to remote. unplugged all cables and left it for a day.

March 25, 2004 - NO POST. I switched firmware back to V39 and it did POST. Worked for a little while but stopped responding to remote. Runs very hot.

March 26, 2004 - Problem came back. All lights lit up. No POST.

March 27, 2004 (Today) - Connected/Disconnected power and equipment. No POST. Hummm coming from power supply.

I rate this 5 sad stars

Quote from: jethro

Levi,

I missed your previous thread about the POST not passing. No offense intended because I don't know your familarity with DSP's, but if you have been switching PROMs, are you sure you have the EPROM oriented correctly and have you been grounding yourself to the chassis or power supply (touch it with one hand) with the unit plugged into the wall when working on the SP-1.7 ?

If you see any non-garbled text on the display at powerup, then the PROM is installed correctly.

Levi · « **Reply #6 on:** 28 Mar 2004, 01:40 pm »

I stopped troubleshooting. I brought it back to my dealer for service.
Thanks for the Help.

Levi

Levi · « **Reply #7 on:** 17 Apr 2004, 02:03 am »

I received my SP1.7 today w/44A upgrade. My unit went through numerous repairs. It looks like the bugs are gone. So far so good.

((

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ec · « **Reply #8 on:** 6 Jun 2004, 05:03 am »

I think my SP 1.7 just died. I watched the movie Monster from about 4:00 - 6:00 and left the SP 1.7 on then caught the hockey game on HD from 8 - midnight. So the unit was on for a good 8 hrs. After the game was over, I tried using the remote to turn down the volume via a Xantech IR extender. Didn't work. I then used the original remote pointing directly at the SP 1.7, the IR light flickers stating it receives signal but the volume knob doesn't move nor is there indiction on the LED. I manually turn the volume knob - no effect on the volume or indication on the LED. I tried switching to another source - the buttons on the front panel don't work. I still get sound through the system though. I do notice it is a bit hot but I am used to this. There is a good 1.5" around the whole unit with the front and back both being fully exposed. I checked the user manual and they do not state anything about ventilation. I am aware of the heat sinks on the unit. Could the heat from the unit damaged one of the internals?

I turned off the unit (both remote and front panel toggle work) and then back on again but none of the LED's above the buttons light up. The LED status window is a solid green. No sound. I let the unit cool down. Same result. I powered the unit down via the main switch on the back and unplugged the unit for a few minutes. Same result. Is there some hidden full reset button combination I can run? I hate to send the unit back to the Bryston for a second time. The first time was for DSP errors upon boot.

Any thoughts are welcome. I have a feeling the unit is going back to Bryston though.

Eric

James Tanner · « **Reply #9 on:** 6 Jun 2004, 12:15 pm »

Hi Eric,

Not sure but it could be the fuse for the digital power supply. On the back were the power cord goes in there is a fuse clip. One fuse runs the Digital power supply and 1 fuse is for the analog.
Un-clip the fuse holder and see if one of the fuses is gone.

james

ec · « **Reply #10 on:** 6 Jun 2004, 03:24 pm »

James,

Thanks for the timely response. I turned on the unit this morning and get the same results. I unclipped the fuse holder as you suggested and the two fuses are not blown. Just to make sure my eyes were not deceiving me, I put both fuses on an ohm meter and there is full signal going through. I'll call your service centre in Etobicoke tomorrow and drop it off Mon or Tue as I'm in the area at a customer site. This might be a good thing as on some occassions via the 2 ch bypass I hear some high freq break up. I thought my PMC speakers tweeters might have been blown or that it was my 3B SST or SP 1.7 causing the problem. The 3B SST has been replaced by a 4B SST and the problem still exists. So I'm assuming it is the SP 1.7 since I notice this on the bypass only. I have dealt with Bryston Service in the past for the SP 1.7 and to have a lost 12V trigger block for a 6B SST sent to me. The service has been exemplary and I trust this experience will be no different.

As a consideration for future SP units. You may want to use the same removable 12V trigger block as your SST amps. I find undoing the screws a slight chore if the unit is to be moved. Also feeding two wires in the "common" socket can be tricky. It is definitely easier to connect the wires on the small jumper block first and then insert that jumper block in the amp or pre/pro.

James Tanner · « **Reply #11 on:** 6 Jun 2004, 05:05 pm »

Hi Eric,

OK - will get it turned around for you ASAP.

james

ec · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 Jun 2004, 09:52 pm »

Quote from: James Tanner

Hi Eric,

OK - will get it turned around for you ASAP.

james

Sent the unit in on Tues and would have got it back on Thur / Fri but I was not home to take delivery so I arranged with Bryston to have it shipped Saturday. All is well once again.

Thanks.

Levi · « **Reply #13 on:** 13 Jun 2004, 03:00 am »

I am curious as to which component failed? Any updates made to your unit while in the shop?

Quote

Sent the unit in on Tues and would have got it back on Thur / Fri but I was not home to take delivery so I arranged with Bryston to have it shipped Saturday. All is well once again.

Thanks.

ec · « **Reply #14 on:** 13 Jun 2004, 04:09 am »

There is a list of components that were replaced and added including some S/W board, a cap for the sub and some other things which I can't recall. I do not know the cause for certain. If I were to guess, it would be heat in a relatively enclosed environment. I have the unit on the top shelf now. I am impressed on how quick Bryston turned the unit around.

Levi · « **Reply #15 on:** 23 Jun 2004, 03:24 pm »

Hi Eric,

I figured you had some time with the 1.7.

Did you notice a slight Hissss coming from the speakers when you lower the volume

Quote from: ec

There is a list of components that were replaced and added including some S/W board, a cap for the sub and some other things which I can't recall. I do not know the cause for certain. If I were to guess, it would be heat in a relatively enclosed environment. I have the unit on the top shelf now. I am impressed on how quick Bryston turned the unit around.

ec · « **Reply #16 on:** 24 Jun 2004, 12:19 am »

none what so ever. I did have a higher noise floor with my older non Bryston amps when using a 50' unbalanced connection. I still had to put my ear within a foot of the speaker. When I put a 3B SST in its place using the same 50' unbalanced connection. The noise floor was lowered to pretty much non existent. Now I am using balanced connections and I still can't hear anything unless I really stick my ear against the tweeter.

Levi · « **Reply #17 on:** 24 Jun 2004, 12:22 am »

You said none in the beginning then in the end you said you did.

You have answered my question.

Thanks again.

Levi

Quote from: Levi

Did you notice a slight Hissss...?

Quote from: ec

none what so ever...unless I really stick my ear against the tweeter.

tdb4rdd · « **Reply #18 on:** 31 Jul 2005, 03:06 am »

I have the same issue with SP1 as described in the original post (blank LCD Screen, all source lights are up except TV/SAT, DVD).

My wife contacted Bryston last week (I was away on business) and they verified fuse, etc. However, my wife did not get any further instructions on how & where to deliver the unit for replair. Meanwhile It started working normally on Saturday and now, problem is back.

Please help.

James Tanner · « **Reply #19 on:** 31 Jul 2005, 12:45 pm »

Hi,

It appears you need to get it to service. What dealer did you purchase your SP1.7 from?

james