Fat Dots for my wooden stands

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JacquesW

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Fat Dots for my wooden stands
« on: 12 Mar 2011, 04:38 pm »
Hello,

I am going to build a pair of wooden speaker stands for my Harbeth C7 and I have several questions.

I would like to know if the regular Fat Dots (the non-sticky ones) are placed between the top frame of the speaker stand and the bottom of the speaker just as they are, without any glue?

How many times can the Sticky Fat Dots and speakers be disconnected and reconnected without any loss of the stickiness of the Sticky Fat Dots and how safe for the speaker's veneer is the sticky material used in these Sticky Fat Dots ?

One last question: do you recommend to place spikes or under the speaker stands when the floor is made of tiles ? If not, then what do you recommend ?

Thanks

Herbie

Re: Fat Dots for my wooden stands
« Reply #1 on: 13 Mar 2011, 02:29 am »
Hi. Fat Dots are used between the bottom of the speaker and top of the stand without any glue. There’s scarcely ever a need for adhesive; dBNeutralizer material gets a very good grip on whatever materials it is in contact with. Speakers will not slide on Fat Dots or anything and the Fat Dots keep the speakers firmly in place.

Harbeth C7 speakers, with relatively hefty dimensions and footprint, do optimally with free standing Fat Dots, unless the stand is considerably undersize relative to the cabinet bottom. About the only time Sticky Fat Dots are needed is with undersize plates supporting monitor speakers that might be prone to being bumped over by children or pets.
 
Sticky Fat Dots can be separated and reattached indefinitely. They’re not designed to be removed and re-adhered jillions of times though, and the loss of stickiness will depend on the kinds of materials they are being stuck to and other factors. My best estimate is that in most cases the Stickys could be removed and re-adhered at least several dozen times over a period of several years. The mild, silicone-based adhesive will not harm veneer or other finishes.

I would recommend a decoupling/isolation product like Fat Gliders under the stands.

Steve Herbelin
Herbie’s Audio Lab

JacquesW

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  • Posts: 2
Re: Fat Dots for my wooden stands
« Reply #2 on: 13 Mar 2011, 10:24 am »
Hello Steve,

If I understand well, Small Fat Dots and Big Fat Dots have the same thickness, then is the use of one type more advantageous in certain conditions and the use of the other type more advantageous in other conditions (when using them between the bottom of the speaker and the stand's top surface)?  The dimensions of the bottom of the Harbeth C7 being 27.30 cm (D) x 31.50 cm (W), does it matter at all if I pick the Big or the Small ?

Thank you very much for helping

Jacques

Herbie

Re: Fat Dots for my wooden stands
« Reply #3 on: 16 Apr 2011, 07:17 pm »
Hi, Jacques. Sorry about the belated reply; I never got a notice for your post and just now noticed your post.

Big Fat Dots (and Square Fat Dots) are much broader relative to their height, so provide better lateral stability. Also, more vibration absorbing and blocking "beef" to accomplish the decoupling and isolation. For the dimensions you mention, Square Fat Dots or Big Fat Dots would be preferable to Small Fat Dots.

Steve
Herbie's Audio Lab