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Denny,What did the indicator tube show during the dead air time? Try gently pushing in and pulling out on the tuning knob to see if you get any RF reception. At which portion of the alignment procedure did you loose RF? I have the same board from Chauncey. Check to make sure you have a good electrical connection between L1 and ground. That hole in the PCB was a bit too small for the L1 lead. I had to enlarge it a bit and lost all RF. I made a deliberate connection to the ground plane and then all was well. I mentioned this to Chauncey as well as a few addition PCB changes that needed to be made. I'll help out as much as I can.Ron
Yes, go back and read the DYNA alignment instructions. T1 was factory adjusted for 10.7 MHz. During alignment, T1 needs very little deviation from the factory setting. If you have adjusted it several turns, then it is way off and you need to have someone with accurate test equipment to set that back to 10.7 MHz. If you remember how many turns and in which direction, you may be able to set it back close enough to do an alignment. Check with Chauncey, he has replacement trannies for the FM-3. Maybe you can swap if he has one that is preset to the 10.7 MHz frequency.Ron
Hey Denny,Have you had any luck with your alignment?
I experienced #2 with an FM-1 rebuild I did a few years ago. I found that de-tuning T2 a little bit helped. While I was adjusting T2 there was a point where the sensitivity would increase to a point and then the signal would drop out altogether.
If you get a change in sensitivity when you pinch C12 then you have one of two problems:1. your alignment is still not right. Start the alignment from step 1.2. you have a sensitivity issue somewhere between T1 and T2 or an internal oscillation.I experienced #2 with an FM-1 rebuild I did a few years ago. I found that de-tuning T2 a little bit helped. While I was adjusting T2 there was a point where the sensitivity would increase to a point and then the signal would drop out altogether. There is a bad component around V3 that I still think is causing an oscillation. You could also try changing C12 to a mica type and make sure that R9 R10 R11 and C14 are all within spec. Then swap V3 and V4 and see if the problem improves. This could indicate a bad valve. (unlikely - V3 and V4 are pretty stout but always a possibility given the age of the valves themselves)In any case if you think you took your interstage transformers way out of spec I can help you bring them back. Just PM me.