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Blair, your preamp is quite good! Had a fun listening session today at Hammer's place with a few other GAS guys. WOW!! i'm really blown away.Hammer normally powers the full range drivers in his speakers with a SS amp, and it sounds great. We inserted the NS-15 p/p amp that I picked up from Tin Ear, and the sound got even better. Hammer's speaker design has to be heard & witnessed in person...just fantastic. Hopefully, Hammer got bit by the tube bug today!!Aside from the wall to wall sound & insanely smooth vocals, the wildest part of a full Niteshade set-up is the silence. Hard to believe that 2 tube based components don't produce even the slightest husshhh, on 96db efficient full range drivers with my ear just inches away.I'm sold. Blair you have a PM.matt
(4uf @ 450V - need 2 of them)Matt
I've heard many great things about the Obbligato Gold Series. http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_obbligato_gold.html
The caps do not have to be matched. The capacitors I use are exceptionally high quality, so we can stick with them if you like. In fact, they're so husky they will probably never go bad in 30 years since they're working at a mere fraction of what they're rated to do. You can use those other ones if you like- they will work as well. I am not against trying new ingredients in a preamp. In fact, I think this is a great subject!
Glad to see you back hook line and sinker. Just remember what Nelson Pass suggests. It is not "the" part but how they interact with each other. Caps will change the sonics. If ya want neutral with weight and detail V-cap Teflon copper. if ya want lush color the obligattos are the ticket. Mundorf Supreme silver/gold offer some of both. My opinion use the caps nightshade uses and beef a tube regulated power supply. A regulated choked power supply will offer more than a cap IMO. Now for strips. Copper baby copper. After having the beacon 2 here for a while as designed for that price it was stellar. sometimes a good thing is a good thing, without mods. Then again if Blair feels an improvement can be wrought then by all means go for the gold man. I would trust Blair 100% with my money and finished product. The only creveat I had was the SS tube rectification. good luck with your project.charles
Tube rectification: I designed an upgrade package that will take advantage of tube rectification plus make the purest DC a preamp would ever wish to have. With the standard power supply, there is no difference between tube or solid state rectification. Capacitors within the audio circuit: The output interface capacitors are designed to transfer high current pulses and work well at high frequencies. What's being done is the equivalent of putting a 454ci V8 in a Hyundai Elantra.
Hey Ray! Its good to be back, and to know that some of the regulars like you & Rollo are still here and contributing. Oh, and i still use your soldering station! No joke! I'm about to buy a new Weller system or equivalent, but your generosity a few yrs was unexpected & saved me so much money versus buying fancy interconnects. I still can't solder to save my life, but now that i've moved back home my dad (an old EE) and I are tossing around all sorts of DIY projects. Even though your old iron doesn't heat up the way it used to, i still find my self burning wires every so often I'm ordering a Beacon III SE from Blair, it has tube rectification. I'm pretty sure the SE designation means this. I also have an NS-15 amp that i bought used here from Tin_Ear, and will send that to blair soon for some updates, including switchable rectification.Through the multitude of PM's that i've shared with Blair, this buying experience is akin to what i think buying a new Rolls Royce might be like. The options seem to be limitless, and Blair is happy to oblige.Right now we're planning to have (2) volume controls, tone controls for treble/bass, tube rectification, chassis damping & i've purchased rca jacks & uber smooth AN tube sockets...and probably a few bits that i'm forgetting.My new place is horrible for sound. Having channel balance & tone controls may be critical considering the 14' tall open beam ceilings, long wall/short wall scenarios & a host of other unfavorable acoustic features.TBH, i was considering an all Van Alstine system for this next go around. But i'm saving money going with Niteshade, and don't think i'm giving up anything in terms of SQ & options.
Good to see you back. As to the soldering station, go to www.circuitspecialist.com ...Ray Bronk
Correct link www.circuitspecialists.com
Hi Mattt,Good to see you back. As to the soldering station, go to www.circuitspecialist.com and in there columns for soldering stations get the one which is for soldering leadless solder. I'll try to look it up, and send you a PM. Nothing against Weller, but they are overpriced. The reason I chose this particular unit is that the hand grip to solder tip is closer/shorter than the standard iron. Now for you, this may not be a big thing. But for me, it is almost as if I were actually putting my hand on the tip and placing it on the solder point. As to the Beacon 3, well, a bit envious, but I'm glad. I don't think between the SAS versus the NS, you would have made a bad choice either way, especially now I know what amp you ar using. Hmmm, so what is this gonna run you? Ok, being nosy. So what made you ultimately choose Blair as opposed to AVA? Just curious. Well, PM me or write me here, that's up to you. Talk to you later. Ray Bronk
