[nicksgem10s]

I have been working with different finishes on my last couple of projects.  This is the product I have found to be best for my priorities.  It looks great and the odor is very low compared to most products I have used.  It is supposed to be low impact on the environment and considered green.  It is worth trying IMHO.

http://www.vermontnaturalcoatings.com/our-products/polywhey-natural-furniture-finish/

I use the semi gloss finish on my plyboo bamboo projects and think it looks beautiful in person.

Nick

[sts9fan]

Great options guys. I would love to have a finish I can use in my basement in the winter with little fumes. Then I can try other stuff in the summer out in the garage

[sts9fan]

I am going to pick up some "Tried and True" at Woodcraft this week.  This looks like just the stuff I have been looking for.  I figured there had to be something without the organic solvents i can use in my basement.  Wood finishing has been around a lot longer then organic solvents and drying agents. 

Kris

[Don_S]

newportcycle,  Does the T&T finish change the color of the wood?  I mean both immediately after and with aging.  My only experience with linseed oil was decades ago. That was "boiled" linseed oil diluted with thinner.  It made the wood darker and yellow or brown (I forget).  That was ok for walnut but not so good for maple or oak.

I use "Tried and True" polymerized linseed oil with pure beeswax, works great, no fumes.  I put on the three coats as recomended making sure to apply them to a finely sanded surface.  After the final coat dries I apply four coats of a high qualitity carnuba furniture wax.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=45105&cat=1,190,42942

[HT cOz]

One way to get color into the wood prior to Waterlox is to use Transtint Dye with Denatured Alcohol.  Here are some wood floors that I did using two coats of Dark Walnut Transtint Dye with Alcohol and two coats of Waterlox Original followed by two coats of Waterlox Satin. 

Granted floors are a much bigger pain in the rear than any speaker project this technique was pretty forgiving.  The finish is tough, better than the Poly that was applied professionally in the other parts of the house.

I plan to use these same products for my speakers that will get veneer soon.



Pre Waterlox - Just transtint - Getting Red Oak Floors this dark is hard and this product really came through.





Keep in mid these floors were created with scrap wood from a pile that was being tossed from the main house.  I did little sanding and the install was not that great.  But hey it looks rustic, its in my media room, and people have actually commented how cool it looks....  Room to be finished soon.

One last comment, the guy at WoodCraft recomended a respirator and I bought one.  They work wonders and are worth the money these spirits are powerful.

[Don_S]

HT cOz, 

Great looking floors.  I couldn't imagine doing that much surface area without a respirator.  Denatured alcohol fumes kick me in the head---and not in a good way. They actually make me sick. Hey, what happened to the hurl smileys?  I need one for emphasis. 

[HT cOz]

HT cOz, 

Great looking floors.  I couldn't imagine doing that much surface area without a respirator.  Denatured alcohol fumes kick me in the head---and not in a good way. They actually make me sick. Hey, what happened to the hurl smileys?  I need one for emphasis. 

The one I used is a 3M Active Charcoal and it was amazing.  The fumes were pretty intense and after taking it off I could smell things in my new house that I can't normally.

It was like a veil was lifted and I could smell each individual scent.  Even the separation of each smell was better, especially the leading edge! I tell you there is a whole new world of scent out there if you just spend an hour prepping your nose in a neutral fragrance environment. 

[newportcycle]

newportcycle,  Does the T&T finish change the color of the wood?  I mean both immediately after and with aging.  My only experience with linseed oil was decades ago. That was "boiled" linseed oil diluted with thinner.  It made the wood darker and yellow or brown (I forget).  That was ok for walnut but not so good for maple or oak.

It does change the color of the wood, both darker and in some instance's yellower or more golden, the colors mellow deepen as the peices age.  I will try to post some photos of some maple speaker stands I treated with this product.  The yellowing is not as promenent as you get with some varnish's which IMHOP can appear somewhat plastic looking over time. 


Here are some photos, not very good, I hope they give yous  some idea of the golden hue the maple takes on.  This wood has been treated with two coats of the "Tried and True" finish with four coats of a high qualitity furniture wax with lemon oil and carnuba.  I'm happy with the finish it only takes a quick wipe down every few months to remove dust and restore the luster. 

[geezer]

It does change the color of the wood, both darker and in some instance's yellower or more golden, the colors mellow deepen as the peices age.  I will try to post some photos of some maple speaker stands I treated with this product.  The yellowing is not as promenent as you get with some varnish's which IMHOP can appear somewhat plastic looking over time.

I used linseed oil on a walnut audio cabinet 40 years ago. I used the natural oil (not "boiled") because I'm highly sensitive to the ingredients in most finishes. Long ago audio components became too large to fit in the cabinet, so it went down to the basement and was converted to an art supplies cabinet. Although it has not received gentle care, the finish, which is semi-gloss, is still in good shape.

Were I to build any furniture now I would still use linseed oil. It's very easy to apply, and almost foolproof. It's been a long time since I last built any furniture, so I'm a little vague on the details, but I think I put three or four thin applications over about six months. (When I say "thin" I don't mean the oil was diluted with some thinner, just that it was not applied heavily.)

[sts9fan]

First coat of Tried and True is on. This stuff is badass.

[newportcycle]

With the oil finishes your colors will deepen over time.  Good luck, please post some photos when your done.

[sts9fan]

Two coats of T&T done plus three coats of paste wax.  I have read a bunch that the T&T does not dry fast.  Hopefully I did not apply the wax too soon.  Seems fine. 

[newportcycle]

Photos?  I also noticed the hops plants in your gallery, which variety?  How much did your harvest yield?

[sts9fan]

I'll post some photos when I am done.  This past summer was my second season growing Magnum, Nugget, Cascade and Mt Hood.  I have two crowns of each.  The first year the Cascade was the only one to produce mych with ~2oz with the other six only neting ~1oz.  This year the Cascade produce over 5oz and the rest did pretty good.  Cascade is an early producer.  The Magnum seems finiky but the product is great.  I am hoping for a good yield in the third season. 
Magnum with tons of goodness

 
big second season Cascade

[newportcycle]

Very impressive, Im a brewer myself and am fond of the Cascade hop.  I admire those with a green thumb, I cant grow weeds.  Lately I've been doing up some Stouts and Pales with Northern Brewer finished with Fuggles, very tasty.  Good luck with your crop next season, keep us posted on your progress.

[sts9fan]

Cascade is great for dry hopping.

Glued the final side n yesterday. All I need to do is attach the suprabaffle and wire in the driver.  I will post some finished pics after Christmas.