Trials and tribulations of a first time DIYer: A N3+N3S build

aharami · « **on:** 4 Dec 2010, 06:54 am »

This is my first time foraying into high end audio as well as my first attempt at building my own speakers. I ordered a bunch of stuff from Danny for my entire home theater build

N3 & N3S for my LCR, a pair of X-Omnis for my L/R surround, and a pair of AV-1RS for my rear surrounds. Eventually I'll also probably go with a pair of SW-12Bs.

I just started this project today and hopefully if I dont manage to seriously injure myself, I'll post my progress as I go along with the build.

As a complete novice at this stuff, I didn't have the proper tools needed for a project like this. But luckily, I was able to borrow a table saw from a friend and went out to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap plunge router+bits. But the cheapass in me couldn't fork over the money for a circle jig. So I just decided to build my own ghetto version

After a few trials, I think I finally got the hang of how to use the router

Now, for my first question. I routed out the tweeter recesses as specified in the plans. The tweeter cup sits flush w/o the foam backing, but protrudes out a little bit with the foam backing in place. Is this designed this way so that the tweeter is flush once the veneer is applied? Or should I recess it down further so that the cup sits perfectly flush with the MDF?

sl_1800 · « **Reply #1 on:** 4 Dec 2010, 08:09 am »

I have done both and I like it best per the specs, standing up just a little.

django11 · « **Reply #2 on:** 4 Dec 2010, 03:40 pm »

I think that it is best for the top of the tweeter to be even with the finished surface so that there is no gap between the woofer and tweeter. Don't forget that when you screw it in the foam will compress a bit.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #3 on:** 4 Dec 2010, 04:41 pm »

You will want it to be flush with the surface (as per your first pic) including the veneer.

PDR · « **Reply #4 on:** 4 Dec 2010, 05:10 pm »

I feel sorry for you......judging by the way everything is fitting, your going to do a fine job.

I also started as a newb....just going to do one project, see how it turns out.....

9 DIY speaker projects later, and I'm looking for another, not because of up-graditis, but because I like
doing it so damn much.

I hope you get as much enjoyment as I do out of building these things....you certainly picked the
right guys stuff.......Dannys work is great.......best I've heard.

I remember my first router plunge......I also feared for my digits.
Keep up the great work and keep posting pics please.

woofersus · « **Reply #5 on:** 4 Dec 2010, 06:35 pm »

I would imagine that the slight protrusion would be met by the veneer thickness, depending on what you use. If you aren't veneering (i.e. paint) then you may want to recess it further to be flush with the mdf.

Zerogravity · « **Reply #6 on:** 5 Dec 2010, 03:31 pm »

Aharami, awesome job so far. I am attempting my first build at these, though I'm using a circular saw and a cheaper Harbor Freight hand router. Your build looks much better then mine, at least the cuts appear straighter. Wouldn't the tweeter recess depth be about 6 centimeters? I understand about adjusting for veneer or hardwood coverings. I know with veneer, it doesn't splinter when you cut it, however using a thin hardwood does and more prominantly when cutting across the grain. I have found when I tape along the cut line, it prevents the splintering! Best of luck

Beatcoaster · « **Reply #7 on:** 5 Dec 2010, 06:21 pm »

Looking good! - FYI, I have that same router and the Jasper 400 circle jig from parts-express fits it perfectly, if you want to drop the $40 on it and save yourself some headache!

Zerogravity · « **Reply #8 on:** 5 Dec 2010, 08:09 pm »

I was looking at that P.E. Jasper Circle Jig. It sure looks easier to do and is reasonably priced!

aharami · « **Reply #9 on:** 12 Dec 2010, 06:21 pm »

It's been slow progress this past week with the cold and long work hours. But I finally got all the pieces cut out and rounded over

There're two sheets of 49"x97" MDF in there somewhere! AV-1RS, X-Omni, N3, and N3S

I made a mistake while cutting out the tweeter terminal access holes in the AV1RS.

I was supposed to make the access holes 90 degrees from where I made them (going vertically, as opposed to horizontally). With this orientation, one of the tweeter screws will be covered by the woofer flange. I'd like to mount the tweeter as designed, so if I make two new access holes 90 degrees from their current location, will the two extra unused holes make any difference sound-wise?

I'll be using No-Rez on the N3 and N3S, but to save some money, I decided to follow Danny's method of a cheap no rez alternative for the AV1RS and X-Omnis. I got these vinyl tiles and since I had some construction adhesive lying around, I decided to use that instead of contact cement.

Now I have to source some open cell foam locally. Will the foam mattress pads available at Target or Walmart work ok?

Playing with the AV1RS crossover layout. Since they will sit at the bottom on the box, I only have about 2"x10" space to lay them out. Does this layout look ok?

I didn't see any heat shrink tubing in the package, so what size should I get?

jdbrian · « **Reply #10 on:** 12 Dec 2010, 10:43 pm »

Hi

I don't think you really need Heat shrink. If the parts are properly supported and the connections are spaced well apart to avoid potential shorts there is no need for it. It is very difficult to remove later on if you want to change something. I only use it where there is a potential for bare wires or component leads to short.
Keep up the good work. It looks great so far.

Brian

aharami · « **Reply #11 on:** 13 Dec 2010, 04:11 am »

Thanks jdbrian.

I have started putting together one of the N3 cabinets. I can already see it's going to be a slow process since I only have 6 clamps to work with. Maybe I'll go out and get some more clamps tomorrow.

What is the best way to put together the N3s? I'm afraid I might be doing it the hard way.

So far I have braces G, E, and C attached to the back, as well as the lower brace B. Next I'm thinking of attaching brace A to the back, followed by the other Brace B. Then sides, top, bottom, and brace H. Then install No Rez along back and side panels, install the crossovers, install braces F and D to front panel separately, and install the front panel to the rest, and veneer. How does that sound? Or should I leave one of the side panels for last?

When it comes to the crossovers, where is the best location to install it? Toward the bottom on top of brace G/E/etc, or closer to the woofers on top of brace Bs? Also do I separate out the woofer and tweeter networks and mount them separately on top of each Brace B (woofer network on lower brace B, tweeter network on upper brace B) or do I keep them together in one 4"x6" panel on top of one of the Brace B's?

BTW, did I ever mention I'm new at this?

chip · « **Reply #12 on:** 13 Dec 2010, 08:09 pm »

Here is a link for the AV1RS Crossover -http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=63659.msg581420#msg581420

aharami · « **Reply #13 on:** 13 Dec 2010, 08:56 pm »

ah thanks! That's a big help!

aharami · « **Reply #14 on:** 31 Jan 2011, 05:07 pm »

I wanted to update this thread since I'm nearly done with my speakers

Putting together the N3

N3S

AV-1RS

X-Omni

aharami · « **Reply #15 on:** 31 Jan 2011, 05:20 pm »

creating the networks. The most fun part of the build, IMO

Danny Richie · « **Reply #16 on:** 31 Jan 2011, 05:24 pm »

Nice pics. It looks like it is coming right along.

aharami · « **Reply #17 on:** 31 Jan 2011, 05:28 pm »

All speakers done

putting in grill magnets. I used these ones - http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=58750&cat=1,42363,42348

Veneering. This was my first time veneering, so it took me a while, but I think I ended up doing a decent job

aharami · « **Reply #18 on:** 31 Jan 2011, 05:50 pm »

Now comes the most heart breaking part. I like darker wood colors, esp the deep red cherry colors. So although I used cherry veneer, I wanted a deep, rick, warm red color like Voncarlos's OB5s. I chatted with him about it but due to time constraints, I decided to use Minwax stains that I can get from Home Depot.

I tried out various stains and even some custom mixtures I created and thought I was happy with one of the results

But when I put on the stain on the cabinets, they came out an dark red/brown color. Totally not the look I was going for. I guess I left the stain on for too long (left it on for about 4 mins on each side)

Before - oh how pretty it looked. Lesson learned. Im not good with staining. Leave it natural next time. Too bad hindsight is 20/20

After - meh. My first coat was a 2:1 mixture of Sedona Red:Cherry, but that left the veneer a weird, ugly red color. I almost lost all heart after that - all my hard work gone to waste because the speakers look so ugly. But then my wife suggested to layer with just the cherry stain on top since it is more brown. And I got this.

Now it looks a bit better, but still too brown. Any of the resident experts know if this can be made to look a bit warmer? maybe a very thin layer of yellow tint (transtint?). Or maybe the clear polyurethane will make it look warmer?

And which is better - wipe on poly, or the poly that comes in a can and requires to be brushed on with a foam brush?

HT cOz · « **Reply #19 on:** 31 Jan 2011, 06:19 pm »

Wow fantastic work! Transtint will work but could require some testing to get the right combination. Mix it with denatured alchohol and wipe or brush it on. Just be aware of lapping.

I would use Waterlox instead of Poly. However it takes more time to use Waterlox because you need to wait for it to dry before recoating. The people at Woodcraft recomended the General Finishes Poly http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/generalfinishes.htm#generalclears I would test before applying to the speakers.

It's hard to not rush at this point but be sure to take your time to get the best results.

I did not put any polyfill in my N3TL did I miss that in the instructions?

Good Luck!

Robert