[Don_S]

What should I look for in CAT5e cable that will be run indoors (exposed, in-wall, in attic)?  I will be doing two runs of apx 60-75 feet each. One run will be for a music server and the other for  internet video some time in the future. I did some research and I think what I purchased will work but I want to be sure before I play "squirrel-in-the-attic". 
 
I need reassurance for a couple of reasons.  Except for some internet research I don't know anything about this topic.  I wonder if the colors of wires mean anything.

I know I don't need plenum rated.  I don't think I need shielded.  I don't really need outdoor rated.


This is what I bought an hour ago:  250 feet of gray Category 5e 24/4pair (solid core) rated for indoor/outdoor, in-wall.  DSL/Modem/350HHz. (I thought CAT5e was rated higher).  Made in the USA by  Coleman Cable, Inc. I got the last spool on closeout at Lowes--$12.49.  Yes, $12.49 that is not a typo. The price makes me nervous. Did I get lucky or is it inferior cable? Anything else I need to check on?  Tomorrow is the big day.  I have a friend coming over to play "ground control" while I go in the attic.  He has a crimper to put the ends on the cable.


 
 
 

[AVnerdguy]

The colors are for specific hook up - your friend with the crimper will know the code. The one thing to remember is that you can go 100meters MAX (300ft.) to meet the CAT 5e standard.

[AVnerdguy]

Here's the color code for Cat5e.

[Don_S]

AVnerdguy,

Thanks for the infomation.  Actually in my original question I meant the color of the exterior jacket--gray, blue, etc. As in the wire I bought is gray.  I now realize the question was not clear.

Now you raised a different question for me.  One end of each cable will have a connector to plug directly into my router.  The other end will connect to a Leviton Jack that will mount in a square hole in wall plate.  I already have a work box mounted with one coax output.  I will change the faceplate to accommodate 2 CAT5e and one coax. 

The Leviton jack shows the color codes for both T568A&B.  Which should I use?

This has been quite a project so far because it required removing 24 years of accumulation in a 12' long closet.  Then I had to repair the shelves and clothes rod supports. After that the attic work may seem easy.  Wish I did not have to scrunch down to 1/4 actual size to fit into the low portion of the roof.

[AVnerdguy]

Sorry, I though you meant color code. Outside jacket color is sometimes used to identify zones when you have multiple runs but otherwise a non issue.

T568A&B is just a flip of the ORG and GRN pairs to meet a standard. You will need to see what is used by your particular router and copy that. B is more typical.

[Don_S]

OOOO NO 

That is horrible news. Do you mean if I guess wrong it won't work? Or if I guess right and then get a new router I may have problems? That does not make any sense to me since my router is not marked and none of the various patch cords I use have any indications of A/B on them.  I buy them.  I plug them in.  They work.

Current router is a Liknsys WRT54G.

[jtwrace]

You're fine.  Typically most patch cords are A&B.  The home runs are "B".  With modern equipment "B" will work.  If you do A&B everything will work.

[AVnerdguy]

jtwrace is correct. You'll be fine.

[Don_S]

Thanks guys.  I appreciate the help.

[JEaton]

Now you raised a different question for me.  One end of each cable will have a connector to plug directly into my router.  The other end will connect to a Leviton Jack that will mount in a square hole in wall plate.  I already have a work box mounted with one coax output.  I will change the faceplate to accommodate 2 CAT5e and one coax.

This is not how I'd recommend doing it.  Crimping RJ-45 plugs onto cables can be a pain in the butt and subject to many different problems.  Punching the runs down to jacks or a patch panel at the router is much more reliable.  Then use only premanufactured patch cords between the jacks and router.  Don't let a friend use a crimping tool on your network.

At the router end you may have a number of wiring runs terminating.  You can use a wall plate to mount the jacks if it's just a couple, or else use a surface mount box to hold up to 12:

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=10751&minisite=10026

It doesn't matter which standard you choose, either 568A or 568B work exactly the same.  The only important thing is that any given cable or wiring run must be terminated at both ends using the same pattern.  Typically you choose one and stick with it to avoid mistakes.

If you elect to ignore this advice and let the friend make patch cords (a cable with two RJ-45 plugs to go between a jack and a computer or device) then you shouldn't use solid cord wire for these.  Solid core is used for permanent wiring runs, typically within walls.  Stranded core should be used for patch cords for its flexibility.  But stranded wire is particularly difficult to work with, which is why I never crimp patch cords.

[jtwrace]

Crimping RJ-45 plugs onto cables can be a pain in the butt and subject to many different problems.

I completely disagree.  It's very simple if you know what you are doing...  In fact, I would never do it any other way. 

How do you think they're made when you purchase one?   

[JEaton]

How do you think they're made when you purchase one?

Not by someone with a hand crimper.  They're manufactured using machinery that precisely trims the wires, crimps the plug on and then tests the resulting cable.

[jtwrace]

Not by someone with a hand crimper.  They're manufactured using machinery that precisely trims the wires, crimps the plug on and then tests the resulting cable.

I understand that!  I guess you're one that belives that a person can't do as good of a job.   

So when a new building gets wired up with Cat 5 how do you suggest they put ends on them?  It's done everyday with millions of miles of cable with very few failures.  There are billions of miles of Cat 5 in the world...

[jtwrace]

Not by someone with a hand crimper.  They're manufactured using machinery that precisely trims the wires, crimps the plug on and then tests the resulting cable.

Correction:
Not by someone with a hand crimper.  They're manufactured in China using machinery that "precisely" trims the wires, crimps the plug on and then tests the resulting cable.

[Levi]

If you want to be code compliant, use "plenum" grade wires. 

I remembered back when a contractor had to pull all the regular CAT5 out of the walls. 

For future proofing, look at CAT-7 wires.

Here is a good guideline for CAT5e
http://www.lanshack.com/cat5e-tutorial.aspx

Here is another one for CAT6e
http://www.lanshack.com/Cat6a.aspx

[MerlinWerks]

As mentioned either termination scheme will work, pick one and use it for all connections you make. To nit-pick though I do believe 568-A is what is specified by the current standard (TIA/EIA-568-B.1-2001) and the "B" wiring is considered obsolete, although still widely used.

[Don_S]

I checked and my current patch cords all use the "568-B" standard. That includes the 50' cable I was using strung across the floor. Since everything was working, I will stick with the "B" configuration.  I am replacing the 50' cable with the new, in-wall and in-attic installation.

Terminating the router ends with connectors instead of a wall box with jacks was meant to reduce the total number of connections and make installation easier.  The CAT5e cable I purchased seems almost as flexible as patch cords. I do not see any problem there.  We will keep installing connectors until we get it right.    There will enough exposed wire that I can opt for a wall box with jacks later if I need to.

[AVnerdguy]

I checked and my current patch cords all use the "568-B" standard. That includes the 50' cable I was using strung across the floor. Since everything was working, I will stick with the "B" configuration.  I am replacing the 50' cable with the new, in-wall and in-attic installation.

Terminating the router ends with connectors instead of a wall box with jacks was meant to reduce the total number of connections and make installation easier.  The CAT5e cable I purchased seems almost as flexible as patch cords. I do not see any problem there.  We will keep installing connectors until we get it right.    There will enough exposed wire that I can opt for a wall box with jacks later if I need to.

Go with that!

[JEaton]

So when a new building gets wired up with Cat 5 how do you suggest they put ends on them?  It's done everyday with millions of miles of cable with very few failures.  There are billions of miles of Cat 5 in the world...

Seriously?  They don't crimp plugs onto cables.  They punch solid core cable into IDC jacks, patch panels and punch down blocks.  Maybe you're getting 'plug' and 'jack' confused.  You won't find wires hanging out of walls with plugs on them in any commercial (and few home) installations.

[JEaton]

I checked and my current patch cords all use the "568-B" standard. That includes the 50' cable I was using strung across the floor. Since everything was working, I will stick with the "B" configuration.  I am replacing the 50' cable with the new, in-wall and in-attic installation.

Again, it doesn't matter at all what the patch cords are.

Terminating the router ends with connectors instead of a wall box with jacks was meant to reduce the total number of connections and make installation easier.

Don't worry about the 'extra' connections.  There are patch cords at either end of 99.999% of the network cabling runs in existence.

The CAT5e cable I purchased seems almost as flexible as patch cords. I do not see any problem there.  We will keep installing connectors until we get it right.   There will enough exposed wire that I can opt for a wall box with jacks later if I need to.

And enough exposed wire that if you need to move the router to another part of the room you'll be able to?  It's just not done that way for permanent wiring installations.  You're going through enough pain (I hate attics) just to install the wire that it's worth terminating it correctly.

Which deserves another comment...  Where is the router to which you're running this cabling?  Permanent cabling should be run to a centralized wiring location in your home.  In homes with a basement with other service panels and utilities that's where all the runs would terminate.  If there's no basement, then it would be a utility room or closet where a hot water heater or furnace is located.   Running permanent cabling into a room that is an office, but tomorrow might be the baby's nursery is not recommended, as it dictates that this location is where your network switch must be located.

If the wiring closet is a bad location for your wireless router then the proper solution is to place a network switch at your centralized patch panel and locate the wireless router (or access point) anywhere in the building by connecting it to the switch.