New member's V-2 build [Complete]

PDR · « **Reply #60 on:** 12 Dec 2010, 09:08 pm »

Gorgeous!.........

Groundzero · « **Reply #61 on:** 15 Dec 2010, 05:21 am »

Quote from: PDR on 12 Dec 2010, 09:08 pm

Gorgeous!.........

Thanks! I think you'll like this:

Here are the panels with Tung Oil

The dull spots are where the wood already sucked up the oil and I have to apply more. One of the reasons why I love Padauk is because of the color variation, it adds such character. These are also really heavy so the speakers will be rock solid.

I'll see if I can weigh them somehow.

A picture with the drivers screwed and glued in place.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #62 on:** 15 Dec 2010, 05:36 am »

Awe man, that is looking good.

kp93300 · « **Reply #63 on:** 16 Dec 2010, 08:25 am »

Hi ground zero,
Do you have any difficulty placing the inner screws for the woofer as the baffle holding the woofers are diagonally arranged ?
How are you going to fix the side panels to the speaker? With glue ?
I admire your work and hope to start mine soon.
regards
kp93300

Groundzero · « **Reply #64 on:** 16 Dec 2010, 08:51 am »

Quote from: kp93300 on 16 Dec 2010, 08:25 am

Hi ground zero,
Do you have any difficulty placing the inner screws for the woofer as the baffle holding the woofers are diagonally arranged ?
How are you going to fix the side panels to the speaker? With glue ?
I admire your work and hope to start mine soon.
regards
kp93300

Hi kp,
The inner screws were not a problem at all. The side panels will be held on with glue and screws. Good luck with your build, I'll be watching for it!

I did all the wiring today to get it out of the way. Stupid me forgot to check the orientation of the tabs on two of the 12" woofers when I put them in place... spent 3 hours fiddling with the soldering iron in the tight space to finally get the wires solidly attached... Note to future V2 builders: Double check the tabs are facing outward!

Right now I'm waiting on the side panels to stop soaking up oil. Those two pieces in the above pictures with the dull spots are thirsty suckers!

mpauly · « **Reply #65 on:** 17 Dec 2010, 01:06 am »

Quote from: Groundzero on 16 Dec 2010, 08:51 am

The side panels will be held on with glue and screws.

I hope your factoring in movement of those solid wood sides. I'd hate to see them crack/split after all that work.

A 6-8 slotted holes in the inner panel/base with some screws should be enough to hold the sides on and the slots will allow the wood sides to expand and contract with the weather without cracking/slipping. I wouldn't use glue.

Michael

grubyhalo · « **Reply #66 on:** 17 Dec 2010, 11:28 am »

They look smart!

Groundzero · « **Reply #67 on:** 17 Dec 2010, 09:15 pm »

Quote from: mpauly on 17 Dec 2010, 01:06 am

I hope your factoring in movement of those solid wood sides. I'd hate to see them crack/split after all that work.

A 6-8 slotted holes in the inner panel/base with some screws should be enough to hold the sides on and the slots will allow the wood sides to expand and contract with the weather without cracking/slipping. I wouldn't use glue.

Michael

Hi Michael,
Would the wood really warp that much? I figured since I've had it in the house for a month now it would be acclimatized, plus the oil would help stabilize it. I haven't worked with solid woods this thick and large before so I appreciate the input.

mpauly · « **Reply #68 on:** 21 Dec 2010, 02:11 am »

Quote from: Groundzero on 17 Dec 2010, 09:15 pm

Hi Michael,
Would the wood really warp that much? I figured since I've had it in the house for a month now it would be acclimatized, plus the oil would help stabilize it. I haven't worked with solid woods this thick and large before so I appreciate the input.

It's not going to warp, it's going to expand and contract with changes in the relative humidity from season to season (across the grain more than the length of the grain). If you glue the entire width of the panel, it's not going to allow for that movement and the panel could split. If the wood was kiln dried rather than air dried, it will move less with changes in humidity, but it will move. Likewise if you live in an arid climate with little change in humidity, it will move less, but it will move.

If the wood is greater than about 1/8" thick, rule of thumb is don't fully glue any pieces more than 4" wide to any substrate or panel end. You've got 2" thick wood that's 12"-18" wide. I think you'd be better off using slotted holes in the center portion with screws. If you really want to use glue, only apply to the center of the panel, that will firmly affix the side panel, but still allow the outer portions to expand and contract, then supplement with screws and slotted holes.

There are lots of posts on WoodNet about wood movement, but here's one someone recently posted about speakers.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=5096989&Forum=&Words=%2Bwood%20%2Bmovement&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=5096989&Search=true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post5096989

Read up and make the decision for yourself, that's just what I would do.

Michael

django11 · « **Reply #69 on:** 21 Dec 2010, 11:45 am »

That is accurate and good advice on the wood movement. Cabinet makers have devised many ways to deal with it. Movement is the reason that the panel in cabinet doors with rails and stiles is never glued if it is solid wood. The amount of movement in a wide panel is measurable and can be surprisingly large. Especially if there is wide seasonal change in humidity.

stevenkelby · « **Reply #70 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 10:05 am »

Would it be possible to use a very soft, flexible adhesive that will let the wood expand and contract? Maybe using thick lines of it, a few inches apart?

Not sure what adhesive though. Green glue?

mpauly · « **Reply #71 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 03:00 pm »

Quote from: stevenkelby on 22 Dec 2010, 10:05 am

Would it be possible to use a very soft, flexible adhesive that will let the wood expand and contract? Maybe using thick lines of it, a few inches apart?

Not sure what adhesive though. Green glue?

Not what I would recommend, but I haven't really thought it through or investigated the method. I would think anything flexible enough to allow for the movement you'll get will not be as secure and/or may fail over time.

Just curious, what's your hesitation with using screws? I think you could easily place them in areas where they won't be seen or will be covered by NoRez and they'll be very secure. You can counter sink them or get some attractive cap screws in various finishes. Alternative to wood screws would be to put insert nuts (also called threaded inserts) in the solid wood sides and machine screws through the MDF center portion.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/threaded-inserts

Michael

Groundzero · « **Reply #72 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 09:03 pm »

Thanks for the info guys. I decided to go with plain wood screws and pilot holes for the main 12" sections, and wood glue for the upper 8" driver section. I couldn't find a place to put screws from the back side and didn't want screw heads on the outside of the padauk. Anyways, here they are all done:

As of right now I'm running them off my old home theater receiver since I can't afford a proper amp yet. When I can though I'm looking at a Virtue Sensation with the tube buffer.

Nick77 · « **Reply #73 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 09:18 pm »

Man those look great!!

How thick is the padauk? I like the beefy look they are projecting. Nice work.

chip · « **Reply #74 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 09:35 pm »

Wow those look awesome! Enoy -

corndog71 · « **Reply #75 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 09:53 pm »

Well done!

PDR · « **Reply #76 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 09:58 pm »

Those look amazing!!

Any first impressions?

Congrats!!

TomS · « **Reply #77 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 10:11 pm »

Very impressive art work

ebag4 · « **Reply #78 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 10:27 pm »

Very nice! I love the Paduak sides. the extra thickness really adds to the visual, excellent choice.

Best,
Ed

stevenkelby · « **Reply #79 on:** 22 Dec 2010, 11:14 pm »

Quote from: mpauly on 22 Dec 2010, 03:00 pm

Just curious, what's your hesitation with using screws?

I don't need to do it, was just throwing the idea out there

Groundzero, those look beautiful!