[rcag_ils]

The guy sold it to me for $10.00 said his dad used it to mount tonearm on turntables, and some pieces might be missing, I did a search at vinylengine, it says it's for adjusting cartridges, but has no info on how to use that black sliding rule looking piece. Has anyone used it before? Is anything missing there?

[bacobits1]

I have had the Denneson Soundtractor, looks like everything is there except for a small bubble level not the round kind this one had a V groove in it to sit on the tonearm tube to check for a level start to VTA.
I have never seen the Pivotram.
BTW $10 is a pretty good price just for the Soundtractor alone. The plastic version you have can sell for as much as $75-80, it also came in a metal version which sells for $150-170.

This is pretty similar
http://www.musicdirect.com/product/73304
Look at the price!

That Pivotram looks like it measures Pivot to Spindle distances for drilling a tone arm. There might have been another piece that screws on that threaded part?
Best guess.

D

[rcag_ils]

Holy smoke, $275 for that?

Actually the "Pivotram" (I have to guess it's for finding the pivot point), that small piece with the knurl nut on it, underneath, it has another nut and has about 1/4" threaded stud sticking out, maybe for marking the point where the drill bit goes once the distance is found. Just not sure how to read the marking on it.

[analognut]

I also have the Soundtractor and used it for many years. It is a great tool for getting the overhang right, although I don't know which alignment it conforms to. Back then I didn't even know there were different alignments. Take the "C"-shaped part of the large piece and mount it in the slot of the medium piece. Then put the hole on your TT spindle and adjust everything so that the sharp point is precisely centered and just resting on top of the exact center of your tonearm pivot. After you have that done you can move your cartridge so that the stylus tip drops preciseley into the pinhole in the center of the grid. Square up the cartridge body to the lines on the grid and you're done. (Actually, what is important here is that the cantilever is square with the grid so pay attention to this if the cantilever is not square with the cart body). You can make repeatable adjustments to the height of the tonearm by taking a measurement with the small piece.

I don't use mine anymore because there are other tools with a larger grid that I find easier to see. 

[bacobits1]

Everything from Clearaudio seems to be a bit high. But not as far out as the new Thorens tables. Way over priced since they came back into production a few years ago. Audiophile toys are always $$$
I use the paper protractor from Enjoy the Music and also a dB systems protractor. Like you said, easier to see the grid.

D

[rcag_ils]

Pivotram, still a mystery, a heavy piece of metal. Wouldn't want to drop it on my turntable.

[Ericus Rex]

Figuring out how to read the marking is easy enough on the Pivotram.  Just measure with a metric ruler the distance from the center of the spindle hole to the tip of the shaft and compare readings.  I don't know why there is a "0-10" marking on the movable part.  That seems unnecessary.

This is my guess as to how it works:  if your arm recommends 222mm pivot to spindle length then set the marking to 222 on the Pivotram.  Using the knurled nut adjust the stud in or out to account for platter thickness.  Put the Pivotram on your spindle (platter still on) and then tap the top of the stud with a hammer to mark the exact drill hole on your plinth (adjust marking stud out if platter too thick to allow marking).

I've been looking for an affordable tool exactly like this.  I'll give you $10 for it!

[rcag_ils]

This is my guess as to how it works:  if your arm recommends 222mm pivot to spindle length then set the marking to 222 on the Pivotram.  Using the knurled nut adjust the stud in or out to account for platter thickness.  Put the Pivotram on your spindle (platter still on) and then tap the top of the stud with a hammer to mark the exact drill hole on your plinth (adjust marking stud out if platter too thick to allow marking).

You are almost dead on. The way I figure it is (I used a metric ruler to double check the reading), to measure 222mm, put the tool over the spindle of the platter, then adjust the small moving piece until it's "0" mark line up with the 222mm mark, (lift the tool a bit while doing this, so the stud won't scratch the turntable).Then the stud point at the bottom is exactly 222mm from the spindle. At this point, I would think just use a pencil to make the mark instead of pounding the stud with a hammer.

As far as for the scale on the small moving piece, I am not sure what it is. The height of the stud is not adjustable, since the bottom part of the stud is not threaded, very interesting tool.

I think it might have been a tool issued to stereo shop dealers, since the guy's father worked for a stereo store years ago before his passing. I asked him about the bubble level, he said he had seen something like that, but his father used it for some home projects and it got lost, bummer, now I have to make my own.

PS, I think the bottom of the stub is used to hold a pin of some sort for marking the point, but of course the pin has been lost over the year. A finishing nail may work, however.

[neobop]

Wow, nice score!! A Pivotram goes for at least $200, probably more on auction on Agon. Yours seems to be missing the device to hold the pencil or scribe to mark the arc on the arm board at specified distance. If I remember correctly, it was set up so the nut would also lock everything in place. I'd think it would be easy enough to substitute something for the nut and bolt - just drop one of those skinny pencils through the hole or get a longer bolt and sharpen the end with a grinder. I'm sure you can figure it out. Makes getting exact distance a piece of cake.

Funny thing, I use my protractor, upside down to measure arm mounting distance. Reverse engineering. Put the long top bar of the protractor in the plate that goes on the spindle. Measure the distance from spindle hole to pointer and lock it down. I substitute a thin pencil. Easy enough to double check your mark. BTW, notice that 1 side of the pointer on your protractor is flat. That is the side that gets the tightening bolt. Sometimes the plastic ones don't square up perfectly, so check that the pointer is coming down 90 degrees from the top bar. You might have to compensate a tiny bit. Check it with a Baerwald protractor and you'll know if there's any error.
neo

[rcag_ils]

Yours seems to be missing the device to hold the pencil or scribe to mark the arc on the arm board at specified distance. If I remember correctly, it was set up so the nut would also lock everything in place. I'd think it would be easy enough to substitute something for the nut and bolt - just drop one of those skinny pencils through the hole or get a longer bolt and sharpen the end with a grinder. I'm sure you can figure it out. Makes getting exact distance a piece of cake.

Thanks for the tips. I've kind of figured that some sharp pointed part for marking is missing on the Pivotram. I don't think there's any locking device for the sharp pointed part/or the pencil lead, since that area/lower part of the threaded rod has no thread, it's smooth, so I don't know what could have been used for locking there. The hole is very small, so I'll have to find something narrow enough to fit all the way in there, so it wouldn't need to be locked down, a small finishing nail may work, just something to allow me to make a small point for drilling. It's a useful tool if I had to mount a hundred tonearms.

[Ericus Rex]

So you'll sell it to me for $10?   

[rcag_ils]

So you'll sell it to me for $10?

I don't think so at this time, I'll need it for working on a couple of tables, maybe when I get tired of playing with vinyl, then I'll let it go.

[Letitroll98]

So you'll sell it to me for $10?   

$25 plus postage is the offer from this corner (don't be such a cheapskate Eric ). 

[rcag_ils]

The VTA stand has never been used in this kit, the two sided tape still at the bottom. The instruction stating, First to find the VTA reference by ear, then if the user wishes, he/she could adjust the VTA based on the reference, every time you play a different record. I don't think it's all that practical, since it would strip the set screw on your tonearm base.

I have no plan to sell it at this time, but would loan to neighbor if they wish to set up their turntables.

[neobop]

I've never used the VTA stand, but I can see how it might be useful. When you have the arm at what seems to be the right height, set the stand and notice the setting. If you don't attach the stand to the table, you can leave it at that setting and then put it to the side. If you need to change your arm height, it makes it easier to find your original setting. It's not intended to replace whatever method your arm uses to set the arm pillar in the base.

If you ever decide you don't want the Pivotram, I'm sure you could get over $100 for it. Even without the pencil/scribe thingy, it wouldn't be hard to adapt. If you use it, I suggest you find a way to lock the center piece at desired distance. Some small battery clamps or something like that would be fine. You'll be setting it at a point beyond the platter so you'll have a little room. If you don't lock it down some how, the potential for error is greatly increased, although you have just the thing to check it. 
neo

 

[rcag_ils]

I suggest you find a way to lock the center piece at desired distance.

neo,

The small center piece can be locked down by turning the top knurl nut clockwise all the way down until it's tight. Once the desired distance is obtained, then lock the small piece down, then just put it over the platter spindle and tab the point on the armboard,  a very slick tool indeed.

I'd have to figure out whether to use pencil lead, or a pointy tip from a metal jewler screw driver, or a small finishing nail for marking the desired point.

[neobop]

I forget exactly how it works with the pencil/scribe holder. Been a long time, I only used it once or twice. The scribe was offset from that bolt and the scale on the slider was used to figure the exact distance of your mark. I think.

Maybe the easiest thing is to get a longer bolt for the slider. Sharpen one end and adjust it so that it it will mark your armboard. Anywhere you drill along that arc will be at the correct distance. If you keep the arc short, the scratch mark will disappear when you drill.
neo

[rcag_ils]

I forget exactly how it works with the pencil/scribe holder. Been a long time, I only used it once or twice. The scribe was offset from that bolt and the scale on the slider was used to figure the exact distance of your mark. I think.

Maybe the easiest thing is to get a longer bolt for the slider. Sharpen one end and adjust it so that it it will mark your armboard. Anywhere you drill along that arc will be at the correct distance. If you keep the arc short, the scratch mark will disappear when you drill.
neo

You are right about the offset, when the small slider's "0" mark lined up with 140mm on the scale , then the actual distance from the spindle to the bolt is 140mm. I just can't figure out what the scale on the small slider is for though, I guess it's for giving you the decimal, but the "0" mark can do that.

As far as the arc goes, I think this tool is used for marking the exact location of the arm pivot that you want, then drill the hole. I don't think it's used for marking an arc, since this tool can give you the exact point, there would be no point to draw an arc. Like I said, it is a very useful tool if you needed to mount a hundred tonearms a day.

[neobop]

It kind of works like this: Get an idea of approx where you want the arm located on the armboard. Make a little pencil mark or something close to that spot (at correct distance) and check if the arm has clearance in the rear and rests at a good place for the cart to wind up. Sometimes your needle could be near a knob or something like that.

If you use the Pivotram to scribe an arc on the armboard, any point along that arc will be at the correct distance from the spindle. It really makes it easy to figure out where to drill. The only exception to this that I've experienced is with the Magnapan arm. They specify the angle between the spindle and the arm at rest position. There is only one spot that is correct in that case. With virtually all other pivoting arms you could locate the arm anywhere that's at correct distance.
neo

[rcag_ils]

Get an idea of approx where you want the arm located on the armboard. Make a little pencil mark or something close to that spot (at correct distance) and check if the arm has clearance in the rear and rests at a good place for the cart to wind up. Sometimes your needle could be near a knob or something like that.

Now I see the purpose of the arc, in that case, I'd have to use pencil lead to draw the arc, instead of the sharp metal point, to save the armboard.