GK-1 remote version.... project pictures?

EchiDna · « **on:** 5 Mar 2004, 03:31 am »

Hey guys,
Anyone finished a GK-1r and willing to share some pictures?
I got the remote kit for Christmas and still have not finished it

c'mon give me some inspiration for the chassis!!

cheers all,
Enjoy your weekends...

andyr · « **Reply #1 on:** 5 Mar 2004, 06:03 am »

Hey, EchiDna,

Sorry, the only digital camera in the family in my daughter's and she's not home ... so all I can do is (try and!) draw for you the layout I have thought up. This takes into account *everything*!! IE. IMNSHO, there is no better layout!

_______________________________________ ___
| Power || RCAs |
| || |
| || ___________________________ |
| A || | C ||
| || |___________________________||
|____________|| ____________________________ |
| ||| D ||
| B |||____________________________||
|___KP_______||____________Bal__Vol__________|

A: contains the two power transformers and the remote power supply. These are bolted to the floor of the case by nylon bolts, and sit on sorbothane blocks.

B: contains the Keypad pcb vertically against the front panel and
the Digital Control pcb horizontally, spaced up from the floor of the case.

The dotted double line going from front to back of the case, and the line between A and B is a 1.5mm mild steel divider, going from top to bottom of the case, to enclose the transformers.

C: the Relay pcb (with phono stage).

D: the main GK-1 pcb. D and C are bolted at their ends onto 15mm flanges welded to the steel divider and bolted to the side of the case. The flanges are 20mm down from the top of the case and the PCBs sit on Sorbothane pads.

This arrangement is so the valves can stick up through the top of the case without seeing any bolts through the top. There are plastic supports bolted underneath the (inverted) GK-1 PCB to stop it bending when you push the valves down into their sockets.

The case is a 3RU 19" rack case from Altronics - I needed it 3RU because it also contains Hugh's MC head amp which is gel cell powered - the gel cells are bolted to the floor of the case, underneath C and D.

Hope this gives U the general idea!!

Good luck ... it's a great project.

Regards,

Andy

EchiDna · « **Reply #2 on:** 5 Mar 2004, 08:46 am »

thanks Andy, however I think the ascii picture came out a bit wrong!

*confused!*

you logic all sounds for want of a better term..... logical!

I'll have a bit more of a play around with designing it tomorrow... it's Friday evening here and time to fire up the projector for some DVD's and a few glasses of red

dayneger · « **Reply #3 on:** 5 Mar 2004, 08:56 am »

Hi Echidina,

Here's a link to my layout:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=7849

Perhaps a little exotic in its construction, but it'll look similar to my 100N and also doesn't have any visible fasteners through the top. If you wanted to have a shop make the parts for you, I could email you the DXF files, although it'll definitely run a bit more than your average 3RU box!

The parts just arrived, actually--right before I go on vacation!

So the freshly-lasered sheetmetal will gather some dust before I put things together.

Cheers,

Dayne

andyr · « **Reply #4 on:** 5 Mar 2004, 12:19 pm »

Quote from: EchiDna

thanks Andy, however I think the ascii picture came out a bit wrong!

*confused!*

you logic all sounds for want of a better term..... logical!

I'll have a bit more of a play around with designing it tomorrow... it's Friday evening here and time to fire up the projector for some DVD's and a few glasses of red

Ouch, it certainly did!! And I thought an ASCII picture should come out OK in a post.

Aah, well ... guess I'll have to buy a digital camera.

Andy

fos · « **Reply #5 on:** 18 Mar 2004, 04:04 am »

g'day echidna,

i have been looking at your aksa photos and was wondering about the size and configuration of the heatsinks. they seem to be twice the size of others. Have you future proofed a little by allowing room to mount more amp modules on the upper heatsink rails?

foster

Jens · « **Reply #6 on:** 18 Mar 2004, 06:32 am »

Hi EchiDna,

I just finished all the technical stuff on my GK-1R yesterday and had it playing, just with all the parts sitting loosely in the enclosure.

I will be starting to get everything secured over the next week. I hope to be able to post some photos en route.

Cheers,

EchiDna · « **Reply #7 on:** 18 Mar 2004, 07:08 am »

Quote from: Jens

Hi EchiDna,

I just finished all the technical stuff on my GK-1R yesterday and had it playing, just with all the parts sitting loosely in the enclosure.

I will be starting to get everything secured over the next week. I hope to be able to post some photos en route.

Cheers,

hehe, couldn't wait to get it started huh? take a look in my gallery (link in my signature) my GK-1(non R) has been like that for over a year now.... Can't take it out of the system long enough to finish the job

Jens · « **Reply #8 on:** 18 Mar 2004, 08:30 am »

Quote from: EchiDna

hehe, couldn't wait to get it started huh? take a look in my gallery (link in my signature) my GK-1(non R) has been like that for over a year now.... Can't take it out of the system long enough to finish the job

Narh, I thought it best to test it before I started putting it all together, which would make it more difficult to make changes. However, it worked fine, remote control and all, so now I can start making it worth looking at - and safe!

I do have some plans for a 10 mm alu front plate with buttons and LEDs somehow sunk into it. I am going to talk to the guy who will do this work for me in a few days. For now, I'll just use the front plate as is.

Cheers,

Jens · « **Reply #9 on:** 21 Mar 2004, 12:59 pm »

The enclosure is only partly finished, but here is a layout idea for the GK-1R: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=270

The front will be beautifully finished 10 mm, black anodized alu. All to come - at the moment I'm fighting some serious hum problems ....

Cheers,

Bert · « **Reply #10 on:** 21 Mar 2004, 08:01 pm »

Hi,

I have Build the GK-1M instead of the remote version. Pictures of the amps can be found here. Just in case you should be interrested.

SamL · « **Reply #11 on:** 21 Mar 2004, 11:14 pm »

Hi Bert,

Thanks for the details photo. I now know that GK1M come with two seperate pcb. A few question about GK1M.
Which pcb is the volume port connect to?
What is the switch (red) on the right of input pcb for?
What is the white block that looks like lego block in your enclosure photo?http://users.pandora.be/bertmahieu/framegk1.htm

TIA,
Sam

EchiDna · « **Reply #12 on:** 21 Mar 2004, 11:28 pm »

thanks all

Jens, looking at your temporary layout, I'm not surprised you have hum issues!

you have power and signal wires running very close to each other and no sheilding around the transformers at all...

Good luck in eliminating the problems, I know I had some fun in my original AKSA 100 layout with minor hum... but all fixed now!

Jens · « **Reply #13 on:** 22 Mar 2004, 06:37 am »

Quote from: EchiDna

thanks all

Jens, looking at your temporary layout, I'm not surprised you have hum issues!

you have power and signal wires running very close to each other and no sheilding around the transformers at all...

Good luck in eliminating the problems, I know I had some fun in my original AKSA 100 layout with minor hum... but all fixed now!

Hi EchiDna,

The hum is not related to the wires. If I connect the GK-1R via my current preamp (as a source) there is no hum whatsoever. No, the hum is to do with the whole grounding scheme of my system.

So far, removing the true earth connection for the whole system improved things a lot, but there's still some "snarl". Not so much that I can't listen to music, though

Cheers,

Bert · « **Reply #14 on:** 22 Mar 2004, 08:17 pm »

>>Which pcb is the volume port connect to?

The volume pot is connected to the analog board. That is the one with the tubes.

>>What is the switch (red) on the right of input pcb for?

That is the HT (Home Theatre) bypass switch. Basically it bridges the analog board so that the input selected with the rotary switch is directly connected with the output RCA.

>>What is the white block that looks like lego block in your enclosure photo?http://users.pandora.be/bertmahieu/framegk1.htm

That is my Pulse relay (don't know if that is the correct term in english). Anyway, it is a special relay who's coil is only powered when you push a pushbutton conneted to the relay. Every time it is powered, the relay toggles its contacts. It is like a giant pushbutton switch, but it has following advantages:
1) It is capable of switching 16Amps, which is more than enough, even for the 100W. Therefor the contacts will not burn, not even after a couple of years.
2) It does not introduce any hum because the coil is not powered during opertation.
3) They are fairly cheap compared to a big power switch.

I hope this answers all your questions (hopefully you understand my "legoblok"