? about Pre-Cut Baffles for A/V-1RS, A/V-3S and A/V-3's as well as finishing

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. Read 2213 times.

t-dog

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 28
I'm finally getting around to assembling my speakers listed in the subject above. I'm to the stage where I need to start considering finishing options as well as get some clarification on what material thickness will work with the offset that the pre-cut baffles have for the countersunk tweeters. Seeing that the woofers overlap the tweeters on these speakers I assume this was intended to accommodate a certain thickness of veneer. It appears that most of the references I see on this forum suggest most use a 10 mil thickness of veneer. I believe this is pretty thin stuff, 1/64" if I recall. This plus a thin layer of glue doesn't seem like it will add enough thickness to the baffle to make the tweeter completely flat allowing the woofer to sit correctly in the enclosure. Can someone clarify if the standard 10mil veneer is going to be enough to allow the tweeter to be flush?

Another question is do I need to caulk the inside corners with Silicone to seal the enclosures correctly? I've glued them of course but I guess I worry that the seal might not be perfect on all edges. When I build large ghetto style subwoofer boxes as a teenager I was always very careful to make sure they were sealed completely.

In regards to working with veneer. I have zero experience with it but do consider myself an excellent carpenter and have built a lot of solid wood furniture and am a perfectionist. From what I've read it looks like I should be able to handle the challenge but I am wondering about how you handle the product. Id it simply cut with a sharp razor blade? Do you use a trim bit on a router for cuts where you can use the router and a knife in the areas you cant get a power tool in? Any suggestions on moderate to lesser price veneers? I really like walnut and cherry but I'm not sure if one is easier to work with. Where do you guys buy it? Best glue? Paper backed or not?

Sorry for all the questions but I really want to get these done and start enjoying the new theater I'm working on.

Oh, thoughts on a sub(s)? I need to figure this out as well. I see Danny is offering a 12" sub and plate amp for $199 but I don’t think it will be enough for my 20'x18' room that has 9' ceilings. I'm considering an IB setup as I have space on the front wall or ceiling about the screen for one. I really don't want to spend a grand on the subs if I can avoid it though and budget is a big deal for me. Will 2 of the $199 subs be adequate in your guy’s opinion? Other options? I want to DIY it regardless so keep that in mind. I like the sense of accomplishment in building my own things.

Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tyler

BrianH

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 63
You might want to look again at this deal, $80  is a steal for twice the subwoofer power for your big room. You could use some kind of simple cable to get the second driver powered from the same amp which will have plenty of power.

Just a thought that you might have missed.

"And yes, adding a second sub to it would be great as two of the SW-12B woofers (8 ohms each) can easily be paralleled onto just one SA-1 amp.

I'll sweeten the deal even further and offer two SW-12B woofers and one SA-1 amp for only $279 plus shipping.

Yep, the amp and two 12" subs for only $279!"

Danny Richie

Yes, the pre-cut baffles were designed with a veneer in mind going over the front of it. The thickness of an average veneer will get the tweeter close to flush. Worst case scenario is that you have to lightly hand sand the surface that the tweeter mounts to make it a little deeper. I have done this on a pair that was painted. It is not a problem.

Sealing the box is important. I usually do that with the same wood glue that I use during assembly. You can use Silicone though if you like.

Rolling the veneer all the way around the boxes four sides starting at the front is the easiest way and looks good. You start at the front then fold it over the sides and then to the back. Using the wax paper trick on the back side makes the seam real easy too.

The sub deal is the best deal going for the least amount of money out there right now. You can run two of the subs on one amp as already mentioned. If that is not enough then add two more subs and one more amp and have a stereo pair. And you still haven't spent much.

t-dog

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 28
Thanks for the replies! I'll call you soon to order a few subs and the amp. What's the preferred enclosure for the subs? Ported or sealed? Approx size requirements?

dvenardos

1.2 ft^3 sealed or 2.4 ft^3 sealed for duals with opposing polarity.

BrianH

  • Jr. Member
  • Posts: 63
Thanks for the replies! I'll call you soon to order a few subs and the amp. What's the preferred enclosure for the subs? Ported or sealed? Approx size requirements?

For music if you want accuracy, its generally thought that sealed is best. I am talking in general, not about whether exceptions exist to the norm.

If you want very loud booms, ported can pretty easily bust your eardrums. :)