[gkinberg]

Jim (and anyone else that is qualified to comment on cabinet design), I am looking for input on some changes I am making to my home theater cabinet or console (photos below).





I want to structurally reinforce the bottom shelf to support heavy equipment, and generate airflow throughout the “cabinet” to keep components cool.

Cooling: I have removed the thin backing of the cabinet to accommodate deep components and to create air circulation. I was considering drilling some holes in the bottom of the unit and shelves to create air circulation but maybe this is not necessary with the back off. Comments or suggestions?






With regard to reinforcement of the bottom shelf, I am considering hammering some wood blocks across the underside of the bottom shelf spanning from front to back. Comments or suggestions?







Thanks for your help, Garth

[jsalk]

I thought that perhaps a cabinet maker would chime in.  If this were mine and I was concerned about the two issues you raise...

1) I would not worry about air circulation.  With an open back like that, you should be just fine.

2)  I don't think I would "hammer some wood blocks across the underside." I would rip some plywood or hardwood strips the width of the lip of the overhang on the front (or the rear if the depth is less) and run one from the front to the back every 8" or so  (maybe more).  These strips would then be flush with the front and rear overhangs (or at least the rear if the front overhang is greater).  I would glue and screw them and that will reinforce the bottom shelf. That will hold better than nails.

That's my 2 cents worth.

- Jim

[Phil A]

You could even take the wooden strips noted and get some L brackets and attach small wood screws to the wooden strips and on the other side of the L to underneath the bottom shelf.  By the looks of the width, two strips (2x4s or 2x6s - whatever would fit underneath front to back) would likely be fine and if you wanted to make sure, three running from to back should be plenty. 

[Mudslide]

I'm no cabinet maker or craftsman...and I would hope that Funkmonkey would chime in here.

Nevertheless, my only concern would be sheering forces due to weight of equipment.  There does not appear to be much support to keep the entire unit from eventually leaning to either direction.

[R Swerdlow]

That is a very nice looking cabinet!

That bottom shelf looks well supported as is.  Is the shelf 3/4" thick?  It should support a large amp weighing 50 lbs. or more.  Just how much weight are you thinking of putting on it?

With the open back, as Jim already pointed out, you will have good passive ventilation.  Be sure to keep the glass door open whenever things are turned on.

[gkinberg]

Thanks to all for your comments. Much appreciated. In fact, the cabinet is supprisingly sturdy with respect to moving side to side, basically no sway what so ever with me pushing side to side. In addition, I only plan to put heavy components on the bottom shelves so no concern of tipping. My receiver is fifty pounds and I plan get an amp which may weigh up to 100 lbs. I'm not too concerned with the reciever weight but the amp is another story.

Yah, I'm pleased with my purchase for the most part. I couldn't find any thing that fit my specs perfectly but this will do.

[Mudslide]

Thanks to all for your comments. Much appreciated. In fact, the cabinet is supprisingly sturdy with respect to moving side to side, basically no sway what so ever with me pushing side to side. In addition, I only plan to put heavy components on the bottom shelves so no concern of tipping. My receiver is fifty pounds and I plan get an amp which may weigh up to 100 lbs. I'm not too concerned with the reciever weight but the amp is another story.

Yah, I'm pleased with my purchase for the most part. I couldn't find any thing that fit my specs perfectly but this will do.

My bad...I was assuming there would be a television on top along with the drive gear below.  It really does look sturdy in the pics.  And I agree, it's a handsome cabinet.

[funkmonkey]

The cabinet does look well made.  Jims suggestion of screwing and gluing reinforcing strips of hard wood front to back is a good one, though probably not necessary.  If I wanted to reinforce the bottom shelf I would make my rip about a half an inch less than it would take to touch the ground (like the base board across the front and sides) and run it long ways down the center of the cabinet.  You could attach it using glue/nailer blocks like the ones that they used during original construction (the 1" x 1" (ish) wood strips with screws through them, along the front and sides).  Just make sure you use the right length screws so that they don't break through the top surface.  The glue is the important part here, that is what makes the permanent joint.  The screws just apply pressure (also important) until the glue dries.  My guess is that you will be fine without any additional structure though.

Ventilation without the back should be more than enough, however I would strongly suggest that you put a piece of 1/4" sheeting (or cut down the original back) where the drawers are.  The back is what gives you your "sheer" strength.  It may feel sturdy right now, but once you try to move it with some weight in there, or someone leans on it or sits on it and shifts their weight...  it's suprisingly easy to snap every joint with a good sharp hit directly to the corner of a backless cabinet, and once it goes...  it's gone.  Yours is well made, and gusseted with good industrial glue, but there are no mortise and tenon joints, no dados...  just straight forward butt joints (easiest to make, but also the weakest).  That back, flimsy as it may seem is an important structural element to the cabinets integrity.

Hope that helps.
Cheers and good luck,
Greg

edit:  just noticed that the doors are beveled glass.  You should leave them open when running your equipment, or if you prefer them closed then you might want to invest in a small, silent computer fan to circulate the air around your amp.

[Wayner]

The ideal place for ventilating the cabinet is with vent holes on the bottom of the cabinet. This allows for natural convection of heat, rising to the top and out the back, drawing in cooler, replacement air from the bottom. You will not need a fan. The holes should be towards the front. You could cut one larger rectagular hole (but not to "F" up the structural integtraty) and then install a mesh if you wanted, just to put back in some support, and not have to drill all of those holes. If you use mesh, try to find something about 50% open.

Wayner

[ZENTISH]

Hi, What I did with a closed cabinet that is used for holding my home theater gear is replace the glass in the doors with decorative wire mesh so air can pass through.
  Good Luck, Tish

[writeface]

Hi, What I did with a closed cabinet that is used for holding my home theater gear is replace the glass in the doors with decorative wire mesh so air can pass through.
  Good Luck, Tish

I have a cabinet which builds up significant heat inside. I would like to replace the glass doors with the decorative wire mesh. Where do I buy them? Is it easy to install?

Thanks

[Phil A]

I have a cabinet which builds up significant heat inside. I would like to replace the glass doors with the decorative wire mesh. Where do I buy them? Is it easy to install?

Thanks

Wire mesh could rattle, and, depending on how the doors are configured, could be a pain to properly install.  Are the cabinets open in the back and the sides?  As noted in a prior post, holes on the bottom of shelf could help.

[writeface]

There are holes in the back.That's it. I have already suffered two equipment losses due to this. My play station 3 as well as Marantz AVR both suffered damages. I had to replace PS3, fortunately, AVR was within warranty so could be repaired. My dish DVR came close to crapping out and I have now put it outside the cabinet. The cabinet looks very good with glass doors but it is not practical to me. I can't sell it easily as it was custom built and heavy.

[Phil A]

There are holes in the back.That's it. I have already suffered two equipment losses due to this. My play station 3 as well as Marantz AVR both suffered damages. I had to replace PS3, fortunately, AVR was within warranty so could be repaired. My dish DVR came close to crapping out and I have now put it outside the cabinet. The cabinet looks very good with glass doors but it is not practical to me. I can't sell it easily as it was custom built and heavy.

Marantz manuals generally recommend 8 inches away from every surface.  Not always practical.  I have about 6-7 on top of my Marantz SR6300 in the bedroom and some open space in the back as well as the entire front and also use an old Adcom 555 amp for the left and right channels which are 4 ohm speakers and it never has a problem.  My basement rack is recessed in the wall to the unfinished part (can see a pic in my gallery).  I used to have an older Marantz receiver but was open in the front and a portion of the back and I cut holes above the receiver where it goes into the unfinished part of the basement and it did fine.  Honestly, I do not think the front is going to get rid of tons of heat.  Are the sides closed too?  Is it possible to cut openings on a side that can't be seen and perhaps insert one of those decorative wood floor registers (for heating) you can get at a place like Home Depot?  How about some holes in the shelves using a hole saw?  Are the components stacked on top of each other?  If so you can get something under the legs to create some space. Are the doors solid glass or is it a piece of glass attached to a wood framed door?

[Phil A]

There are holes in the back.That's it. I have already suffered two equipment losses due to this. My play station 3 as well as Marantz AVR both suffered damages. I had to replace PS3, fortunately, AVR was within warranty so could be repaired. My dish DVR came close to crapping out and I have now put it outside the cabinet. The cabinet looks very good with glass doors but it is not practical to me. I can't sell it easily as it was custom built and heavy.

Here's some info as well - http://www.coolcomponents.com/Cabinet-Venting_c_8.html?gclid=CIWfn4jTv6QCFdR65Qod2mPqDQ

[gkinberg]

Thanks again to all for your comments and suggestions. I've made my modifications to the cabinet by reinforcing the bottom with seven 1 x 4's running front to back. Also added vent holes through the bottom shelf (may sound silly I know) and at the top of the back. Greg, as you suggested, I trimmed down and reattached the backing to the cabinet to help with sheer force. I'll add pics when I get everything set up (after painting).

Cheers, Garth