[Mark Korda]

Hi this is directed to all,but I know Bill Thomas might have some input.Here goes...I have about every thing I need to rebuild a couple of Dyna Mark 3's,but my chassis are a little rusty..I really don't want to have them re chromed,but want to paint them for economic sense.I do have sand blasting experiance having worked in the production of tomb stones in the mid 90's,but want to know if any of you have tried this route with out having rust come back.I'm painting houses at this time in my life and have painted a lot of heater baseboards after grinding them down with a Mikita grinder as best I could.I've used this stuff,oil based called Rust Destroyer,thick red goopy paint.It's said to encapulate rust and hold out for 5 years.I've checked out some places I worked at,and so far so good,but it seems that the rust might be resurfacing in small areas.If I had a lot of dough I'd buy the new stainless steel offers from the new Dyna parts company,but I'd like to know if anyone had success with painting the old chassis.PS....I plan to live to 178 years old,and I'm like Monk and don't want any rust coming back,even though it has nothing to do with the sound..thanks,like to hear from (Body Men)........Dawkus(mark.korda@myfairpoint.net)

[Brett Buck]

Hi this is directed to all,but I know Bill Thomas might have some input.Here goes...I have about every thing I need to rebuild a couple of Dyna Mark 3's,but my chassis are a little rusty..I really don't want to have them re chromed,but want to paint them for economic sense.I do have sand blasting experiance having worked in the production of tomb stones in the mid 90's,but want to know if any of you have tried this route with out having rust come back.I'm painting houses at this time in my life and have painted a lot of heater baseboards after grinding them down with a Mikita grinder as best I could.I've used this stuff,oil based called Rust Destroyer,thick red goopy paint.It's said to encapulate rust and hold out for 5 years.I've checked out some places I worked at,and so far so good,but it seems that the rust might be resurfacing in small areas.If I had a lot of dough I'd buy the new stainless steel offers from the new Dyna parts company,but I'd like to know if anyone had success with painting the old chassis.PS....I plan to live to 178 years old,and I'm like Monk and don't want any rust coming back,even though it has nothing to do with the sound..thanks,like to hear from (Body Men)........Dawkus(mark.korda@myfairpoint.net)

    If you are going to paint it, I would clean it up with steel wool or Brillo, then prime and paint with any quality paint. Unless you leave it outside in the rain, the chances of it rusting again in the next 40-50 years is not high. I actually would avoid Rustoleum since it will outgas under the relatively high temperatures forever, and smell funny. Plain old Krylon sandable primer, and Krylon enamel, is the way I would go (even though I have access to two-part epoxies and urethanes), if I was going to paint it.

    I would be far more tempted to clean it up and then have it nickel- or Cad-plated, but you have already looked at that and decided otherwise. Bear in mind that you will need some chassis grounds, so the paint will have to me removed (or the appropriate spots masked) to get good conductivity.

     Brett

[baldrick]

If you are painting the chassis and are concerned with rust then there are a couple of techniques to consider.Sanding and burnishing with steel wool or brillo pads will get most of the surface rust off, but chances are pretty high that there is pitting corrosion that sanding or buffing will not remove.  The original chassis was nickel plated and once the plating is compromised pitting corrosion takes over, especially in hot dusty environments (exactly what the inside of a 50 year old tube preamp is like).  Add heat cycling and a bit of humidity and conditions are always ripe for pitting corrosion.


The best way to deal with it is to either sandblast the area and follow up with multiple coats of a good high build primer, preferably a zinc chromate-bearing type to mitigate any further corrosion.You could also treat the chassis with phosphoric acid (rust removers are usually based on phosphoric acid) to dissolve the rust and then prime with high build primer.
Topcoat with a heat resistant paint.  There are dozens of colours available in barbecue paint, radiator paint, engine enamel, etc.

Although this is the less expensive option, you'd be surprised at what a local plating shop can do for little money.  Never hurts to ask.  Replate with nickel for an authentic restoration.


I still think that