[Ron]

 Until recently, I was using a popular brand of contact cement to veener speaker cabinets. It worked well, but was a mess to use. Also, it has to be used in a well ventilated space because of the dangerous fumes. Recently I switched over to using a heat activated type veneer glue by the brand name "Better Bond Heat -Lock veneer glue". Looks a lot like wood glue and doesn't smell. This product works great! So much easier to use than contact cement with less mess too. The method I use to apply it is to squeeze some out on the veneer surface and the cabinet surface and spread out evenly using a foam type paint roller ( I use a 3" long roller). After it dries, you may want to apply a second coat. When both surfaces are dried, simply place the veneer on the cabinet surface, line it up the way you want it, then simply iron it on using a clothes iron set on medium heat. You will need to use a piece of cloth ( like an old t-shirt) between the iron and the veneer to prevent scorching the veneer.

 The Heat Lock glue is available from the following supplier:
http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Heat-Lock-Veneer-Glue.html

 Hope this information is helpful.

[Will2]

Thanks for this Ron.  I'm a total newbie and I'm really excited about embarking on my first DIY build this weekend (doing N2x's and Super-V's).  This looks like it will make my life MUCH easier.

Cheers
Will

[doorman]

Any good quality "carpenters white/yellow glue" works perfectly too, probably cheaper as well?
Don

[dvenardos]

That is the method I used for my AV-1RS, very noob friendly. 
I used white glue. Method is described here:
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/ironon.html

[chrisby]

The iron-on method with regular carpenter's glue is nothing new - personally I'm using Titebond III - great viscosity for application lint-less velour rollers. 

Frankly, I wouldn't worry so much about scorching, since there will usually be alignment/sequencing pencil marks to be sanded out, and a little light scorching can actually be used to advantage in outlining rebated driver cutouts/ port slots, etc.

Some of the thicker / two ply wood backed veneers might need higher temperature than medium setting to fully fuse the layers of dried glue.

And of course, you can't spend too much time going over the entire surface, and particularly the edges - it's a lot easier to prevent air bubbles or wrinkles than to try and repair them later.

 
 

[Ron]

 I previously tried the yellow carpenters for veneering, but it didn't work as well for me as the Better Bond Heat -Lock brand. Maybe it was just me. I will give the yellow glue another try and see how it does.

[dvenardos]

I am no expert, but from the link I posted:

You can use either white glue or yellow woodworking glue. It is recommended when you use yellow woodworking glue to use a type of glue that has an extended open time.

I previously tried the yellow carpenters for veneering, but it didn't work as well for me as the Better Bond Heat -Lock brand. Maybe it was just me. I will give the yellow glue another try and see how it does.

[roymail]

What's the best way to make nice edges or seams?  For example, where the front and sides meet diagonally?  Or, the top, front, sides, etc?

I'm totally new at this and have NO experience with veneering, but I want to learn.

Ron, you do a superb job with speaker cabinets.

Thanks. 

[ebag4]

What has worked for me on outside corners (I use the Heat Lock Iron On method) is to glue and iron a side then trim flush.  I then glue the adjacent panel making certain to get the glue on the very edge whih is the profile of the veneer you just placed on the side, iron your veneer on and now the veneer on the front is glued to the front face and the edge of the veneer on the side panel.  I then sand, I typically round the corners by sanding just a bit to take the edge off.  The raw veneer is typically about 1/42" so you have to be careful not to sand through ( I am a notorius over-sander )

Best,
Ed

[roymail]

Thanks Ed, appreciate the tips..

What do you use to trim the overlap?  Being so thin, I suppose you can cut it with sizzors, then use a sanding block?  Is this what you do?  Anything else?

Thanks for the help! 

[ebag4]

Thanks Ed, appreciate the tips..

What do you use to trim the overlap?  Being so thin, I suppose you can cut it with sizzors, then use a sanding block?  Is this what you do?  Anything else?

Thanks for the help! 

I typically use a flush trim bit in my router.  For a speaker project I am currently building there were curves that didn't allow me to use the router so I took a razor knife and CAREFULLY cut it close to where it needed to be then finished with an orbital sander.

Best,
Ed

[roymail]

Well, at least I have an orbital sander.  Thanks again for the help.

[Christof]

Did you buy a veneer saw?  If so flip the enclosure so the veneer in question is facing down on a table and use a veneer saw to trim it about 1/16" away from the edge.  Then heat your iron back up and push the edge down at about a 20-30 degree angle along the edge to bond it very well.  Sand the veneer flush with 220.

I did the triangles on this enclosure in the same manner...worked great and made a very nice seam.